JackLondon

Give Jon from Simnett a shout! [email protected] highly recommended and very close to you!

[quote name='escholl' post='783334' date='Mar 23 2010, 12:49 PM']This is true of all solder though, not just leaded stuff. The smoke and fumes are caused by the flux, not the solder itself.[/quote] You're not wrong there. The lead stuff is more harmfull, few years ago I've worked in a steel factory that was dealing with loads of lead stuff and after about 2 hours of being close to the fumes it gets a bit funny

[quote name='cheddatom' post='783178' date='Mar 23 2010, 11:05 AM']Really? I have loads of it. I made a loom in the living room the other night and my girlfriend said the smell made her feel sick. Is she just being a pussy? You can't really get ill from it can you?[/quote] Inhaling the fumes for a long time can cause headaches, fainting, upset stomach and prolonged inhaling can damage your lungs! F*ck it I say, I prefer proper solder joints

[quote name='steviedee' post='783132' date='Mar 23 2010, 10:07 AM']Hi Jack I looked at the Gorm thread on talkbass, I thought the orange one the bloke made was dynamite, however, I think mine would look sh*t cos I'm completely hopeless at any sort of DIY.[/quote] Check this out [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=58038"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=58038[/url] it cost me about £30 to make and I'm not a DIY expert as well!

If you want it cheap then DIY is the way to go! For 5 pedals I would imagine it wouldn't cost more than £10-15! Cheers Jack

yeap, check the affiliates forum!

properly set up auto wah should do the job very well!

same here, it can give you some wild noises!

My experience of using passive DI comes from the studio when I was recording last year, the bloke had an active box with which we recorded one track and when I listened back it wasn't a good sound, we plugged a passive box and it made it sound more natural to me, with active box there's was that little amount of boost which was even visible on the recording software, it couldn't have been playing dynamics as it was using an 8 second loop that was recorded on my effect! I'm sure Max that with proper design a quality components you use your boxes are clean, many manufacturers however tend to cut corners here and there which means that what it says on the tin isn't what it actually does! Cheers Jack

Nice one Don't get carried away though, it's a very grabbing hobby and I think you'll have enough of other things to do

Give gary from hartke a shout, he might be able to give you more info!

get a nosiy cricket mkII or a tube cricket and a small speaker, sorted

[quote name='Pookus' post='779995' date='Mar 19 2010, 04:46 PM']They are terms employed by a mixing engineer - relating generally to the frequency ranges of the Ashdown controls and their effect on the sound of a bass guitar. So if my bass is sounding a bit too boomy - I can cut the 180hz range (boom). If I want more clarity - I can boost the 340hz range (clarity) and so on. So the terms are not in my opinion arbitrary. I think it will be useful for me anyway - like you say. Thanks for your input [/quote] IMO Ashdowns are boomy anyway so you might want to rename the amp! IMO the upper mid and the mid range don't go along nicely with other names you have like clarity, deep etc. If yo're planning to make a new enclosure for it than good luck, you will need a lot of it with the sliding controls! Cheers Jack

I think that if you want to maintain that VT tone you'll be better with having a passive DI, can't help you on the price as I don't have to use one!

[quote name='umph' post='780714' date='Mar 20 2010, 12:46 PM']i'd love to see a schematic for this![/quote] As requested [url="http://www.musikding.de/popup_image.php/pID/2244/imgID/0"]http://www.musikding.de/popup_image.php/pID/2244/imgID/0[/url]

But have you seen the inside of the switch? soldering is the small part in they way the switch works, remember it's a mechanical, moving part which can be prone to wear on particular parts!

what about the switch itself? maybe this is the fault that happened during transport? try getting a new switch, should be no more than €5!

Instalment number 2 as promised Here we have a simple signal booster, the first pic of the inside : [attachment=45179:T_Wiring.JPG] 2nd Pic of the finished product, front of the box, I couldn't help naming it properly in relation to guitarists [attachment=45180:T_Front.JPG] 2nd on the list is a clone of Fuzz Face, it has a full on fuzz sound, it will require a bit more tweaking with the variable resistor but that's when there's not many people around. Checking again how it will all fit : [attachment=45181:FF_Check.JPG] Everything wired up, waiting for transistors [attachment=45182:FF_Wiring.JPG] The front of the box, I really like this one the most [attachment=45183:FF_Front2.JPG] So far so good with the building in general, however I am not happy with my wiring and especially that I have another 3 effects to build that will have a lot more wires and it includes the small clone chorus with stereo mod I need to work on getting all those wires neat and tidy, I was thinking of putting 4 cable tie bases and feed all the wires through there, might be a bit tricky but should work I reckon. Any tips or ideas on this ? Stay tuned for more coming next week once another batch of enclosures is ready Cheers Jack

Good luck man! It will be worth it once it's done and you fire it up! Check out the thread in the effects section for DIY Effects!

pm me your email address and I'll send it to ya

I'm using those plastic standoffs that are dirt cheap but do the trick! I have some metal ones in case a pcb can be grounded through enclosure!

Yeah those LED bezel are really cool, I know Max (Silent Fly) puts very nice ones on his boxes and yes it is surprising that other manufacturers don't put them on considering that they are only about 50p! Good luck with the decals and if you need any help give me a shout Cheers Jack