Machines

Found the pics - it does look like the same one.

It will be, I know where there's a 5 string version for £700 that has been there over a year.

Looks like an Enigma machine

I think only EMG HZ are passive. The EMGs in Euros and US models are active. Would need battery somehow and active preamp if you're really trying to nail the sound.

And check the setup. Weather along with central heating does crazy things.

Trading is just buying new gear but payment is old your gear. The objective here is to be content with existing gear and stick with it. So many loophole seekers here.

Shame they put the twin J pickups in - that'll make changing them really difficult. I actually quite like the look of it though, as well as the non-boring colours. I think neck dive will be OK as top horn goes to 14th fret. Definitely up to try one out.

As long as you are willing to take a financial hit of at least 30% if you choose to sell something you bought new (assuming they aren't super rare), then go for it.

My personal opinion is you can get a lot better than those for your money. What do you want from a 5 string ? Ps BassDirect is a lot better than GuitarGuitar. They will definitely have more options.

I've seen probably 2 I normally would have bought by now, but rationalised them away. Don't think I'll make the year by any means but it's good to be able to hold back for once. If any of the 'always wanted' basses come up at the right price, I'm out. I'm looking at you Yamaha RBX6JM.

I had this happen recently, the G side pinged off but managed to find it. Superglue and 30 mins it was fine

I use this Ibanez multitool for nearly every bit of work I do on mine. The truss rod/allen keys have fit everything i've had in the last few years apart from US made stuff. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ibanez-MTZ11-Multi-Tool-for-Guitar/dp/B00F4SDYNS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1EJWW1J0KK810&keywords=ibanez%2Bguitar%2Btool&qid=1643648967&sprefix=ibanez%2Bguitar%2Btool%2Caps%2C65&sr=8-2&th=1

There's been no Imperialism in Japan since 1945. And checked my BB415 just, 4mm is correct.

I tend tend to keep them to certain genres, but pretty much could use any of them whenever: Current stock: Spector Euro 4LX - Does most things, very bright and punchy. Tends to be the primary choice but not if I want something more old school. Yamaha BB415 - Passive 5 string, good substitute for Fender P/J sounds. Cort GB95 - Has J/MM pickups, so can mimic Fender/Musicman sounds. Interchanges with the above BB. Yamaha RBXJM2 - 6 string with MM pickup in the right spot. Used for any B tuned metal or a more convincing Stingray sound. Fender Precision - Has flats, don't use it much but it was a gift. Tends to be my 'learning a song' bass so I don't faff with the tone, just learn the song.

Saw a brand new Mini Clubman for £39k yesterday, it was Ford Focus sized. I honestly think they should rename it to Midi.

No problem for completing January for me, I have no money spare. However have sold some annual leave and get 50 hours pay in March.

My take on this: Simple - little to no risk Intonation Bridge height Pickup height Neck shims Truss rod adjustment (assuming you know which way you need to go, and can judge when to stop) Medium - can cause issues if you are heavy handed, usually requires some planning: Replacing pots/switches/jack socket/pickups Nut replacement (although have never needed to) Hard (I don't do these) Fretwork Replacing onboard EQ/multiple pickups/complicated switching

Definitely don't want series vs parallel, but chooses between the single coils as well would be the ideal.

If it complicates the wiring beyond what i've seen so far, then series is probably less faff. My only experience with series vs parallel was on an L-2000, and I always went for parallel, but more due to the output differences to series vs single coil. EDIT: Ignore the that part, it didn't have single coil mode.

Thanks for that, I think it is indeed series - does it overpower ? Hmm a little but would like to hear parallel to compare . I'm pretty sure I want SC/P/SC, which would approximately give me 60s vs 70s Jazz differences. I can get a switch easily and it looks like if i just copy the Lakland diagram, it will be OK Same as the Lakland it seems, thanks.

They're next for the price increases no doubt, buying old stock now is probably wise if anyone wants one.

How about 2 ? I like the easy carry of the the 112.

I took my RM500 / RM112 to a rehearsal last week. It was in an old Working Mens Club and we had use of the main function room (with stage). Initially, with my amp at chest level on the hollow wooden stage and us on the dancefloor, I couldn't hear a thing at decent volumes. I moved it onto the solid floor and that improved things drastically. However a bit later as the volume naturally increased, I was struggling to hear any fundamental, mostly just the top end. I think my issue was the room, but was wondering if a 112 was enough to cut it here without PA support.

True, but the cost of production is not the only aspect in the Squier pricing. They are hugely popular due to the Fender association, and Fender is a behemoth with a huge marketing budget and endorsees to pay. A good amount of the extra cost goes there. FWIW I have had both a Sire M5 and a Squier VM 70s Jazz. The Sire was a better instrument in terms of spec, but I definitely preferred the 'authentic look' of the Squier.

I have a Cort GB95 which is pretty good, but I feel I can get more options from it quite cheaply, by adding a coil tap for the Seymour Duncan SMB-5D bridge pickup. I would want this to work in the same way it does on a Lakland 55-02. I have the Cort wiring diagram (below), how would I best approach this ? What i'm unsure of: Is the pickup currently wired in series or parallel ? With a 3 way on/on/on (single coil/humbucker/single coil), would I have any phase issues with the existing bridge single coil ? What colour wire goes where ? In the humbucker mode, would it be series or parallel (I think I prefer the latter). What i'm OK with Location of switch inside the base Soldering Thanks in advance. Lakland 55-02 wiring: