Twigman

I have been well and truly bitten by the bass building bug.... My last project was a Status jazz necked Warmoth DinkyP which some of you might have seen at the recent SE bass bash: My current project is a lined fretless PJ with aguilar pups, babicz bridge converting my green PJ which I put together back in 2011. Anyway I fancy making a new bass with MM pickups just for a change. Primarily coz they look good - not for the sound they make... So I'm looking to order another DinkyP body - I do like the ergonomics and light weight of these. I can't decide between a pair of MM pups (1 bridge and 1 neck) or a single in either the neck or bridge or the sweet spot (somewhere inbetween)..... Am undecided whether to leave it passive or active and if I go active which pre-amp to use. I will more than likely fit another Status jazz neck as I love playing the one I have. What do you suggest I do with the electronics (Pups & pre)...and why?

This pic says it's MIM

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1445240140' post='2889740'] Isn't this what this thread is about? I have feeler gauges, and would use them if I were setting up a bass for someone else, but I read this thread as being about "how accurate do you measure yours?" [/quote] yeah I suppose so...I started this thread because someone had joked in another thread that my action must be 'only' like 1mm at the 1st fret, as if that was uncommonly low....which of course it isn't. I was curious as to how high some people's action might be set as I couldn't even play a bass that had 1mm at the 1st - imagine what it's like at the 12th!!! So it wasn't so much how accurately it's set up but which measurements you employ that I was interested in. It seems the chap who feels 1mm at the 1st is low hasn't turned up to this thread.

BBE optostomp

Neither I wouldn't give either a second glance. They do nothing for me.

looks like the incredibly rare anti-gravity wall mounted version The best onstage sound I ever had was through a rig like this Congrats

It's over a ton now....in more ways than one.

I know I've done it several times before but today I just couldn't... hahaha

I recently acquired a lined fretless neck, brand new, from Warmoth. It's lovely: satin nitro finished maple with an ebony fingerboard.... Today was supposed to be the day it went on my PJ. Earler a swapped out the Gotoh201 bridge for a Babicz and the pickups for an Aguilar PJ set and stuck in the Kiogon loom I'd recently bought. I restrung just the A string on the frretted neck to see how the pickups sound...a vast improvement over the mismatched Fender original and a Allparts J. And then I spent the rest of the day trying to summon the bottle to start drilling holes in the new headstock to mount the set of GB640 tuners I have and the string tree. It's not like I haven't done this before. I have. Several times. But today I just couldn't get the bottle. I became paranoid that i would make a mistake, drill all the way through or just generally make a balls up of it.. I shall try again tomorrow. Does anyone else get filled with builder's dread?

Not the style I play with my band but I always loved this whole album primarily for the bass tone - I think it's the album that made me want to play bass! [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ju1Tmgu8FRE[/media]

I can't sight read but I can translate dots so it would help to find where I'm going wrong...thanks

I thought my GAS had gone but I have an urge to build yet another Warmoth Dinky P but this time. despite my protestations about not liking fancy woodwork, it would have a quilt maple top dyed transparent purple with a black back and carry twin MM pickups and a status neck.....The only thing holding me back is deciding what colour hardware would go with a quilted purple top.....black or nickel?

and then there's this for colour matched polyurethane spray can: http://www.carpaintandsundries.co.uk/polyurethane-paint-aerosol-spray-can-400ml-5

Nitro lacquer here: http://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/shop/ if it's polyurethane then I suggest you get it colour matched by B&Q/Dulux then dilute it and use an airbrush.

it's not really my thing but I need to find a 100% accurate tab for the theme to the "revenge of the pink panther" movie...the 1978 version with all the bass runs in the intro....I've been trying to do it be ear but something's just not quite right. An accurate tab would help me out. there's a couple of weird key changes in there too.. Anyone found a tab.... [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PlDha5H_uH8[/media] This is more for my own amusement than anything else as it is so far from anything i would usually play.

The whole set, one at a time but infrequently. I have some flats that have been on my JV for about 15 years. The half rounds on my main bass get changed maybe once or twice a year.

[quote name='LayDownThaFunk' timestamp='1444503205' post='2883769'] Your action must be like 1mm at the first fret lol. [/quote] Out of curiosity I measured my action at the 1st fret last night with the feeler gauges. The result is 0.15mm. 1mm would be impossibly high.

No neck plate? Are J Pickups right? All looks very odd to me

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1444912424' post='2887240'] You guys with loads of basses (of which I am most jelous) do you have cases for them all? If so, where are the cases? I had six basses at one point last year and they didn't take up that much space on the rack thingy I've got, but the cases took up half the bedroom... [/quote] i have 1 flight case, 1 hard case, 1 gig bag and a SKB bass safe.....they're either under the stairs or in the spare room, apart from the gig bag which is propped up against the wall in the lounge!

I prefer what I call the best of both worlds: self build a Warmoth custom (I've got 3). You get the 'usual suspects' shapes and necks....but put a satin nitro finish on the neck and you get the matte non-sticky tactile finish that you won'r get off the shelf. You can load the body and neck with high end parts - I use babicz bridges and gotoh gbr690 aluminium tuners...and choose any pickup configuration you like and load it with any of the aftermarket preamps. Set it up properly and you'll end up with a quality bitsa that's better than any Fender... Downside is you'll never recoup anywhere near the initial outlay when selling,.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1444034808' post='2879528'] That's because Fender won't allow them to sell new MiJ instruments for export. Anything second hand and pretty much any other make new is fine. TBH I can't really see the point of buying anything new from Ishibashi because IME pretty much everything turns up second hand at some point most often still in excellent condition and of course much cheaper. [/quote] I had a similar problem getting some new car wheels out of japan (manufacturer was brokering a EU distribution deal and didn't want a grey market)....In the car world there are import/export guys based in Japan through which such a deal can be done insofar as he buys from the shop then ships on to you....there must be an opening there in the guitar world for a Japanese resident.

[quote name='JonnyScaramanga' timestamp='1444861214' post='2886884'] I think the 1993/94 date I found was for a Japanese Fender, not a Squier. How do I date a Squier, other than guessing? [/quote] Fender and Squier shared the serial numbers for the MIJ stuff

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1444726979' post='2885313'] Maybe, but a drummer, old fruit. Let's see, now; 'Electronic'... 'Electronic'... Nope. Doesn't ring a bell. Carl... Carl... Carl Palmer..? Carl Allen..? Carl Coleti..? Jimmy Carl Black..? Nope, no 'Martin' there. Sorry. [/quote] and Lego - why did nobody mention Lego?

https://www.eurotubes.com/store/pc/ampeg%20v4bh.htm I found this page seems to explain it well

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Ampeg+V4BH