Twigman

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1444376059' post='2882612'] Gigging bass guitarists who only play other people's songs have taken the easy way out compared to the home musician who is trying to compose his own music and master recording, IMO. Churning through a 12 bar blues or an AC/DC number is a piece of piss compared to the inner workings of a DAW. [/quote] take it the step further.....sit at home in front of your DAW writing stuff.....take the recordings to band practice....get the rest of the band to play them....then gig them.... anything less is only doing half the job

I could get these: http://www.allparts.uk.com/products/bridge-saddle-height-screws-for-bass-hex-head-metric-10mm but ideally i'd like ORIGINAL slotted screws. Allparts only do imperial slotted screws..... I vaguely remember the JV series were rumoured to be assembled using American hardware shipped over to japan...if this is true then my thread will be imperial, won't it? Does anyone know for sure?

If it's American I'd say these: http://www.allparts.uk.com/products/bridge-saddle-height-screws-for-bass-or-t-guitar-slot-head-6-32-x-1-2-inch

such a good question he asked it twice!

Banana custard, trees and bonsai giraffe

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1444308303' post='2882099'] 'WTF am I doing here' mid-song [/quote] That one happens at most gigs for me. Our gigs tend to mostly be in foreign parts playing to fans who know the songs as well as I do....which is a surreal experience and such a contrast to the day job.

[quote name='Dan Dare' timestamp='1444247999' post='2881624'] Gotoh bridges the best value, imho. 201 or 203 (the latter is a heavier duty version of the BBOT). Nicely made and no sharp edges and the cheapfulness is gratifying. Of course, the Snake Oil Custom made from unobtainium is better... [/quote] I find the saddles on the 201 are way too fat and have to be on the deck to get anything remotely close to a nice action. I had to shim a neck after lowering the saddles to the deck on one bass and even then the action still felt a bit high. When the saddles are on the deck the adjustment screws stick up, are sharp and rip your right hand to shreds if, like me you often find yourself resting the outside of your hand on the bridge, I loathe the gotoh 201.

I tried to setup my JV the other day. One small problem One of the 8 saddle height screws was so rusty that the screwdriver took the top off the screw - they're slotted rather than allen keys in true vintage style. Does anyone know whether the thread is imperial or metric and where I can source a replacement saddle height screw (or 2 or 3) ? It's a 1983/4 JV export 62 P with the threaded saddle bridge and slotted saddle height screws. Imperial or metrc thread?

blow jobs - it's all about the blow jobs

I see the poll has no option for Zero - there must be somebody here who doesn't have any at all mustn't there?

I have a JV P which I've had from new and has become part of me - I'll never sell it and I'll never gig it again. I have a Warmoth PJ which I made myself, wasn't happy with it (too heavy, sharp frets, gloss neck) - it's now got a satin nitro finished lined fretless neck - but fretless is something I've just decided to learn. I have a Warmoth P with a J neck and an East pre which I put together, I invested far more in it than it's worth to sell and it was for a while my goto bass, so I'm keeping it as my gigging spare. I have a Warmoth bodied Status J necked P thing which i built because I wanted something lighter for air travel and long sets. Edit: can I just add that for 30 odd years I only had the JV - then I found basschat....... Edit2: i have almost enough parts to build a 5th - just missing a body at the moment.

http://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/Alnico-Bar-Magnets these?

My latest bass and mini-rig - Nice pic - can I nick it?

mine is autobiographical

http://www.status-graphite.com/status/frames/index_home.html [quote]You can simply fit these fully screened pickups to your bass and use the existing controls or choose to expand the E.Q. range by fitting a Status active circuit. These pickups have a broad response with a full output : ideally suited to being modified with an active circuit. Status pickups are also fully compatible with most other manufacturers active circuits so you can safely fit these Status pickups to your existing instrument.[/quote]

[quote name='throwoff' timestamp='1429286357' post='2750083'] Nothing in the instrument makes a single bit of difference to the tone other than pickups and electronics. [/quote] In that case 2 of my basses should sound exactly the same. They don't. Both have babicz bridges Both have the same Fender original 62 pbass pick up Both are passive - even wired using the same pots, wire and jack. They both wear the same strings at the same gauge. So you are saying they should sound exactly the same? Far from it. One has a Status neck, the other a maple and rosewood neck and they sound very very different from each other.

[quote name='cybertect' timestamp='1443695328' post='2876907'] The Durutti Column, who are often compared to the Cocteaus. [/quote] by people who are tone deaf, I'd imagine....

My personal favourite band from the 80s (apart from us ) was the Cocteau Twins Simply Red were never on my radar

The fella who you reckon undervalued your amp is probably just chancing his arm in an effort to claw back what he felt he was short changed on the bass...just saying.

Omelette to the party again...

I've been looking for this mod too..... I bought a BBM but it went straight back in the box as I deemed it unuseable without this mod.

After the Wal talk at the bass bash on Saturday and seeing the insides of a Wal pickup - each magnet has its own coil.....I am tempted to have a go at winding my own pickup. Has anyone tried this? Any tips on methods to count windings? Sources for rod magnets/fibreboard? Any tips?

Stick a feeler gauge of appropriate thickness (fret height plus a little bit) up against the nut on the fretboard side when you file. If your file hits the feeler gauge you've gone far enough.