Twigman

In fact using stringsdirect search here is a page of all their flatwound 4 string sets [url="http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/c/601/strings/bass-guitar-strings-sets/flat-wound-sets/"]http://www.stringsdi...lat-wound-sets/[/url] Actually you need to select the gauge from the drop down on the left.

Or fender 45-105 @ £20 [url="http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/p/912479/fender-9050cl-stainless-steel-flatwound-bass-guitar-strings-45-105-long-scale/"]http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/p/912479/fender-9050cl-stainless-steel-flatwound-bass-guitar-strings-45-105-long-scale/[/url]

Of course they are available in std and lighter gauges.... Go for a 40-100 set of Chromes [url="http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/p/913134/daddario-ecb84-4-string-flatwound-chromes-40-100-long-scale-bass-guitar-strings/"]http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/p/913134/daddario-ecb84-4-string-flatwound-chromes-40-100-long-scale-bass-guitar-strings/[/url]

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1385644545' post='2290592'] We've never had much joy with microphones. They're OK for an acoustic band but if you're trying to amplify something against a drummer and backline they're not much use. [/quote]# Really? We mic a sax all the time and it works just fine.

Why in that case [quote name='6v6' timestamp='1385644515' post='2290590'] What is a "true bypass" pot? I thought all pots went from zero ohms to whatever their rating is (e.g 250k ohms), every pot should be zero ohms when in it's fully "on" position, otherwise it's faulty, ergo all pots are "true bypass"? If you need to check, use a multimeter on ohms between the middle and outer connections, zero ohms means they are connected directly together with no resistance. [/quote] Why in that case would this pot [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/collections/guitar-pots-fender/products/250k-split-shaft-no-load-potentiometer"]http://www.allparts....d-potentiometer[/url] be described as a 'No Load Pot' and how might it differ from this pot [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/collections/guitar-pots-fender/products/250k-split-shaft"]http://www.allparts....50k-split-shaft[/url] ?? It is my understanding that ONLY the 'no load pots' completely bypass the resistor when the wiper is fully wound round.

[quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1385589136' post='2290125'] I thought the use of soft furnishings for torture and punishment was more of a Spanish thing. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnS49c9KZw8[/media] [/quote] i didn't expect that

[quote name='FinnDave' timestamp='1385570583' post='2289789'] American English is still English. [/quote] No really it isn't.

More proof, as if any was needed, that Americans can't speak English.

OK can someone explain tone capacitors to me. How does the value of the capacitor uF affect the signal and thus the tone? The voltage rating of the capacitor (100V, 600V etc) - how does that affect the effect of the capacitor? The composition of the capacitor (oil and paper etc) - how does that affect the effect of the capacitor? I am building a passive pbass and although I already have a couple of capacitors that were sold to me as bass tone capacitors I am unsure as to which to use or if I should use another different capacitor. So you boffins can you explain how all the variables relate to the signal so I might make an informed decision. thanks

Can anyone find a long shaft (1/2" or 3/4") 250k tone pot that purports to be true bypass in the full on position? I can only find normal shaft (3/8"). I have a CTS 250k long shaft log pot (3/4") but it doesn't claim to be 'true bypass' when the knob is wound to max.....does it make much, if any, difference? I need longer than 3/8" because the surface I am mounting it to is exactly 3/8" thick. thanks

Yep they are Roqsolid covers - got one on my BFB Super 12T - fits perfectly - went for the strap underneath which prevents the cover coming off accidentally. Only gripe is that it seems to be wearing through where the speakon connector is - this could be down to me sliding it on its back into the car.

[quote name='Maude' timestamp='1385415373' post='2288083'] All this nit picking is a bit petty really, so some folks get it wrong, I could care less! You f**king what? I could care less! I COULD CARE LESS!!!! Arrrghhh!!! I couldn't care less, think about it, WTF does 'I could care less' mean? The exact opposite of what you are trying to say you dumb sh*t! This one annoys me somewhat [/quote] Americans can't speak English I should've read the thead before posting my similar gripe.

I have a couple of new gripes: People writing 'now days' when they mean 'nowadays' - seen it often round here. And Americans who say they could care less when they clearly couldn't.

Shotgun shell knobs?

kaboodle tribal knobs?

Knob shaped knobs?

Yeah I am seriously an idiot thinking my pickup rout was the same as any other. Because the body of this is designed for no scratchplate the pickup routs are smaller than a std pbass rout and are shaped to fit the pickup covers only. I could do without the plate by shielding the cavity and running the earth all the way from the A/E coil to the controls but I like the idea of the plate so I will shield the sides of the cavity with copper tape and take a piercing saw to the existing plate to cut it down to size to fit the cavity......I think it will be make a smarter (albeit nobody will see it) job than just sticking the foams on the copper tape - besides the plate gets the pickup 1mm or so closer to the strings!

[quote name='Sibob' timestamp='1385391340' post='2287632'] When it's finished I will say that I have ordered the knobs, they are fairly weird, so they might not stay on the bass, but I will give someone a (conceptual) prize if they can guess what type of knobs lol Si [/quote] Q parts skulls ?

DOH! I am such a dumb f***. The other basses do have larger routs. There's nothing wrong with this plate.

i quite like the look if of it

Que?

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1385209187' post='2285602'] No, mine didn't fit the rout. I just enlarged the rout, as I had a scratchplate to cover it. [/quote] No can do as rear routed control cavity and still undecided as to whether to fit the custom scratchplate - depends how it will look and will be last thing fitted as it's just cosmetic - in fact I'm not even going to start designing it until the bass is built.

[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1385206458' post='2285559'] I bought a Fender p pickup and it had the large plate. It was definitely genuine, but was the Vintage model, maybe that's the difference? [/quote] Ahh Ok Thomann advertised it as 'Vintage' but it has the same packaging and the same part number on the label as my previous 2 'Original' p/n 0992046000 which had smaller plates that did fit. ...did yours fit your rout? I think I shall cut this one down and then resolder the pickup to the plate - what do you reckon? The 2 on the left are pickups I bought previously which are both fitted in Basses. The one on the right is this new one with the oversize plate Same part numbers, same descriptions, same barcodes, slightly different layout on the labels. Otherwise all same packaging [attachment=149043:pickuplabels.jpg]

Strange This is the 3rd Fender original Precision pickup I have bought However it seems this one has a larger shielding plate than the previous 2. It's so large it will not fit in the rout! I bought this one from Thomann - I'm wondering if it is genuine as the other 2 I bought seem to have smaller shielding plates. So what to do? Do I question Thomann? Do I remove the pickup from the shielding plate and get some tin snips and cut it down to size?