markdavid

[quote name='GreeneKing' post='129545' date='Jan 28 2008, 08:21 PM']Ref Audio vs Linear I thought that it was Audio for volume and Linear for tone (or was it t'other way around?). No I'm fairly sure I'm right.[/quote] Well that throws a spanner in the works , can anybody else confirm that Audio is for volume and Linear is for tone ?

[quote name='neepheid' post='129257' date='Jan 28 2008, 01:31 PM']Terminology: Split shaft - have a ribbed exterior and take press on knobs. The shaft is split down the middle, and the two parts can be squeezed together slightly if the knob is a bit of a tight fit. Solid shaft - smooth exterior. They require knobs that have a grub screw that tightens through the body of the knob and onto the shaft CTS - manufacturer of pots, used by Fender (I think?) Audio taper - the value of the pot progresses in a logarithmic fashion (half the travel of the pot does not correspond to half its value). All you need to know is that these are the ones to get, as their operation is closer to what human ears perceive Linear taper - the value of the pot increases/decreases directly with the adjustment of the pot. To human ears, this will give something of an "all or nothing" response. Basically, don't use these in a guitar Mini pot - well, if your control cavity is small, these might work better than standard size pots. Yes, you use the same type of pot for volume and tone (log/audio taper). Seymour Duncan have a good range of wiring diagrams here: [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/[/url] There's a sticky in the Tech forum of suppliers of bits. I favour WD Music, but feel free to shop around.[/quote] Thanks for the info guys So if I was to change the pots on a P Bass , would these pots work [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/catalogue/product_info.php?cPath=91004_91053&products_id=11266"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/catalogue/produ...oducts_id=11266[/url]

Hi, I have just aquired an Aria P Bass which I plan on upgrading a little (new pickups , bridge etc) . I intend on replacing the tone and volume pot , however I know and understand very,very little about pots. There seems to be so many different types and I dont understand any of the the terminology (Split shaft , CTS , Audio/Linear Taper, Mini pot). My understanding is that a tone and a volume pot are the same thing (eg if you buy two of the same pot you can use one for volume and one for tone) is this correct. Can anybody point me in the right direction as to what pots I need to use for a P Bass as I am baffled , also if you know of anywhere that you can recommend I purchase from that would be very helpful. Sorry if I sound like an idiot but im a bit of a noob when it comes to this kind of thing , thanks in advance for any input you may have

i am currently looking into the overwound wizard pickups (thumpers) , anyone know what I can expect from these? It would be nice to have more mids and bass and less treble and the fact they are overwound suggests these might deliver that , Im also looking at the Dimarzio Model P as there tone chart says Bass 7 Mids 7 Treble 5 which also suggests that these may deliver that kind of tone

I found this with my Labellas , the G string was very bright compared to the other strings , almost roundwound in comparison. I cured it by rubbing furniture wax into the string twice a day for a day or two , a pain but it solved the problem. The G string will calm down so dont worry

Hi, Was wondering about the tonal differences between the two pickups , anybody tried these ? , which one has more low end response ? How do they compare against each other ?

Can you use a G**tar Compressor pedal with a bass? Are they made any differently , will it sound like c*ap , anybody know?

I was after an opinion about my fret buzz problem. On my Squier , I get some nasty fret buzz from the 12th fret to 21st fret , particularly on the D string, the fret buzz is particularly bad on certain frets (13th, 15th, and 18th). My action is quite high and I would like to lower it but when I do I get fret buzz from the 9th fret to 21st fret. I have measured the relief by fretting 1st and 15th fret and there is maybe a bank card sized gap between the top of the frets and the string (although I was unable to slide a bank card under the strings without them lifting slightly). I am thinking that the fact that some frets buzz more than others indicates I may have some high frets but I think probably I need a truss rod adjustment as well. I have attached some pics to show the action , straightness of the neck etc. All help appreciated

Have been offered a Giovanni vintage P pickup for £15 , are Giovanni pickups any good , anybody used them

[quote name='Musky' post='107578' date='Dec 21 2007, 12:23 PM']Rickenbacker seem to have found themselves the answer to their growing backlog of orders - up their prices dramatically! According to Rick, the price rise is due to increased costs and to 'help create a better balance between demand and capacity'. In other words, so many people want Ricks they can afford to take the piss out of their customers. They've also decided to stop producing fretless basses for the time being. So if you want a new Rick, get in quick. Way to go Rickenbacker - nothing like good customer service. [url="http://www.rickenbacker.com/news_item.asp?news_id=54&news=recent"]http://www.rickenbacker.com/news_item.asp?...amp;news=recent[/url][/quote] 40% , Yeowch , Ricks are already expensive enough to stop a lot of people owning them , they are taking the piss

[quote name='BB2000' post='94374' date='Nov 26 2007, 03:10 AM']Clean up the slot, fill with baking soda and add super glue (the low viscosity kind). This is what a pro would do. (Some people advise adding ground plastic or bone to super glue and using that - whatever you do don't try that.)[/quote] Thanks for the tip , any particular brand of superglue you would recommend using ?

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='94399' date='Nov 26 2007, 08:49 AM']I got a large bone from the butchers, left it to the chickens and ants for a while, took a saw to it, dried out the piece and filed it into a new nut. Course I was unemployed sotime wasn't much of an issue, just get a new plastic nut from the shop, about 50p (my local shop sold me two Graphtec ones for that, think they didn't twig what they were), and a needle file. Is it a sit at the end of the board nut, or a sit in a groove sort?[/quote] Its a sit in a groove nut , unfortunately. Otherwise I would just replace it myself

[quote name='sk8' post='94400' date='Nov 26 2007, 09:00 AM']i'm thinking of getting a Squier Vintage Modified P[/quote] Sounds like a good move, there meant to be very good basses for the price.

[quote name='sk8' post='91314' date='Nov 20 2007, 10:38 AM']I think the answer is - buy a P [/quote] Im in the same boat as you , I have a couple of cheap copy p basses but im really after a Fender P Bass (which money wont permit at the moment) , I think the best thing to do is look for a used MIJ P Bass as these are relatively inexpensive and are good quality instruments

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='94355' date='Nov 26 2007, 12:19 AM']I'm thinking of starting up another project bass, based on a jazz body most likely, I'm looking for a real punch in the guts sort of sound, my last project was built to growl and sustain, which was pretty successful. So, what gives the punch? I've been told bolt on neck, light bridge and light body, and MM style pickup. Anything to add, experiences, details, philosophy and luthier voodoo, etc?[/quote] I would think that a heavy duty bridge such as a bad ass 2 style bridge would definately give more punch than a light bridge. MM style pickup makes sense , if possible one in the normal MM position for the MM style bite and punch and another MM style p/up near the neck for some thump

On my main bass the nut is a little worn (grooves are a little wide for the strings) ,although its not causing a problem at the moment I can see that it may cause problems if I wanted to go with a lighter string gauge or different string type. As it approaching christmas i can't really afford to fork out £40 to have a pro fix it. What I was wondering is if there is anything i can use to fill the slots and then file them out to the correct thickness? Any ideas?

[quote name='markdavid' post='93522' date='Nov 23 2007, 08:42 PM']I love the Fender Musicmaster bass , I know a lot of people dont like them but I love the sound and feel of them, I can see that flats would sound good on a Musicmaster[/quote] Come to think of it , thats quite funny , my main bass is a cheap p bass that ive fixed up with quarterpounders only to slap labella flats on it , roll the tone down and lust after the muddy tones of the musicmaster bass , Oh the irony!

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='93296' date='Nov 23 2007, 01:04 PM']I love the sound & feel of LaBellas on short scale fender musicmaster basses, but the G wasn't long enough on both sets I bought with different guages so I have had to use a G from an old 34" set which is a bit naff The lighter set are on a daisy rock heartbreaker (2/2 headstock so they fit) which has a wonderful old-school precision tone with them.[/quote] I love the Fender Musicmaster bass , I know a lot of people dont like them but I love the sound and feel of them, I can see that flats would sound good on a Musicmaster

Hi All, Thought I would share my experience with the Labella flats. I am very impressed so far , had these on only a couple of weeks so far but straight from the packet these strings sounded good. None of that excessive new string brightness that you get with some flats when new , these are kind of upright bass sounding and are very old school sounding

[quote name='The Burpster' post='76872' date='Oct 20 2007, 09:39 AM']MD, thanks..... They are bit unknown to me, I dont know of anyone that has their axe strung with them..... B.[/quote] Hi Burpster , I believe that Galli strings have only recently been available in the uk but people have made some very positive comments about them. You can get Roto Trubass for cheap from stringsdirect but you need to buy 3+ sets of them

[quote name='The Burpster' post='76748' date='Oct 19 2007, 09:43 PM']Anyone know of anywhere cheaper than Dolphins £22 for a set of Tru Bass Nylon wound flatties?[/quote] No , but stringbusters sell the Galli nylon flats for £18 , they are meant to be very nice strings, might be worth a try

[quote name='The Burpster' post='76650' date='Oct 19 2007, 06:44 PM']I was in the mkt for a P/J P earlier this year..... I ended up getting one (a custom shop bblah blah), however this was one I looked at.. I played one at Sound Control and was blown away..... Yes it works..... it has some great flexibility and is well loud.... My guitarist talked me out of it because it is MIM, using the argument that if you buy a Fender buy 1 that will go up in value....... I kinda wish I'd got that Bello bass....Why? Well the 1 I bought cost twice as much, and is in its HSC under my bed not being played, and does it sound any better than that Bello P? Nope..... My advice FWIW, is ..... If you like it (try playing 1st if you can) get one you wont be dissapointed..... If you dont like it give me first dibs on it when you decide to blow it away! [/quote] Cheers Burpster , If I get one and don't like it you will be first to know. I take it the pickup volume is balanced due to Fenders handywork ?

Hi , I have seen this Bass , it has a P/J Pickup configuration. Now what intrigues me is that the bass has a Quarterpounder P Pickup and a Fender noiseless jazz pickup in the bridge position. Does this work? I would think that the Quarterpounder would overpower the Jazz pickup