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Everything posted by Stewart
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Difference between sleeve and shallow rack cases?
Stewart replied to KASH's topic in Accessories and Misc
[quote name='KASH' post='463507' date='Apr 15 2009, 11:02 PM']I'll use it for my GK1001RBII (2u) and will get a rack tuner. I want a 4U as I have to leave 1u free on the top of the amp head for air circulation as the fan is on top rather than in the back. I am thinking long term protection...[/quote] I'd go for these every time (light, tough and seemto last forever): [url="http://www.soundslive.co.uk/product~name~SKB-ATA-Effects-Rack---4U~ID~7500.asp"]SKB ATA Case[/url] A shallow case won't be deep enough for the GK. -
[quote name='bumnote' post='463080' date='Apr 15 2009, 03:31 PM']... For all the concerns expressed about the 1/4 jack its been used in guitar amps for what 50years? [I wonder how many that is] and is still being offered in brand new equipment today so although no doubt it can be bettered, it cant be all bad.[/quote] And you used to be able to X-ray your own feet in shoe shops... Seriously - putting a jack socket into a cab is just building-in a flaw.
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Jack connections are entirely bad news for high-current applications (even when using 'high-current' jacks and sockets) - they pit quite badly in no time, and require frequent cleaning, twisting and reseating. If you only have jacks at the amp end, then get a jack-speakon lead (and avoid any possibility of being able to use an instrument cable).
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I bought a couple (BGM) a year or so ago, and my impressions were: Amateurish, parochial, small-minded and patronising, with sections seemingly cut & pasted from manufacturers promotional material. I haven't bought one since - but I'll probably give it another go some time... I still buy Bass Player (probably about every other month) *in spite* of it being American, advert-loaded and with the occasional article on 'tone-improving power cords' that makes me want to fly over and strangle the sub-editor responsible with one!
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[quote name='dave_bass5' post='456323' date='Apr 7 2009, 12:29 PM']For gigs (we dont rehearse) i used to use a Minidisc recorder with a sony mic and that seemed to work well but recently i got a Edirol R-09Hr recorder that i strap to the singers mic stand. ...[/quote] I've got the Edirol too - it's fabulous. The remote really swung it for me. The only downside was not having a tripod mount built-in (you do get one with a rather overpriced leather case)- but I can normally find somewhere for it anyway. Recordings are quite bass-heavy, I find. (A great feature
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Crosscut Saw Hound Dog Wang Dang Doodle (checkout most of Koko Taylor) ...
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I'm very fond of Audix D4 and D6...
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US Fender Prec BadassII & Bass line PUPS FS/FT???
Stewart replied to the hand of john curley's topic in Basses For Sale
Tricky.... You need to decide whether the '73 Fender bit is important, or you just want to fix a faulty bass. The provenance thing is a bit of a non-issue on a bass with two trees, a Badass and Seymour Duncans... If you want a 'genuine' '73 either get the neck repaired/refinished (probably at considerable cost) or purchase another '73 neck (also considerably expensive), then source a '73 pickup and bridge. Or sell it (might be problematic given the above issues) plus bowed neck (I take it this can't be resolved with the trussrod)... If you just like the thing and want to play it, then either get another P neck - Japanese come up fairly regularly and you get a logo - Mighty Mite are very substantial and feel authentic. Good luck! -
Hi [quote name='silverfoxnik' post='440801' date='Mar 21 2009, 01:22 AM']Very nice collection.. How do they sound?[/quote] All strung with Tomastik flats except the '59 (which makes more difference than any other feature) The fretless sounds amazing (though my playing doesn't) - The DiMarzio is very bright and suits it well. Sounds much better than it has a right to, I reckon! The Jazz is typically jazz-sounding, detailed, plenty of growl - completely hum-free - sounds great recorded (especially with a bit of compression) but the E and G are a bit hotter than A and D, and it seems to 'disappear' a bit on stage... The '59 is closest to a standard precision but those Tru-Bass strings make it the real odd-one out tonally It suits Trad blues very well - quite a bit more top-end than you might expect. This one hasn't yet been to Bernie at GB to have it's frets fettled, so it's my least favorite to pick up and play currently - though it gets gigged the most. The US '79-necked is my favorite fretted - the neck just feels great and has amazingly low buzz-free action. The tone is much darker than the others - lots of bottom/lower mids. I'm not sure the bridges contribute anything much tonally, but I hate the standard item and like quick-loading. Hipshot stuff is all nice anyway.
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All my Fender P necks and associated parts: WD music body with most recently purchased Japanese neck (bought from member dmz - and a pleasure to deal with). The bridge is from a 1979 Ibanez, pickups DiMarzio [attachment=22426:P3080006.JPG] [attachment=22427:P3080008.JPG] Warmoth alder Jazz body with Japanese neck, Dimarzio pickups, Hipshot bridge [attachment=22428:P3080009.JPG] [attachment=22429:P3080010.JPG] Japanese '59 (?) reissue, alder, US pickups, replacement pickguard and pickup covers, Hipshot bridge and (reverse) tuners - Tru-Bass strings. [attachment=22430:P3080018.JPG] [attachment=22431:P3080019.JPG] Mexican body, 1979 USA neck, Kent Armstrong Hot Vintage pickups, Hipshot vintage bridge and tuners [attachment=22432:P3080021.JPG] [attachment=22433:P3080022.JPG]
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Purchased a Digitech Bass Synth Wah from Fatos at a very reaonable price. An entirely pleasant experience - cheque cashed promptly and goods despatched swiftly, well packed. I'd have no hesitation in dealing again.
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I agree with the previous posters, you're wiring is a bit scruffy - even for a prototype. As a target to aim for, I don't think they get much better than this ($155 for a six-switch...) [url="http://www.tonefactor.com/proddetail.php?prod=BigfootSixChannelLooper"]Road Rage pedals[/url]
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The make and model of the speakers would be a good start I play in two bands - one has a pair of Mackie SRM450s - (they're self-powered - 300W for the bass speaker - which is 12"), the other uses a pair of RCF ART-310As - (also active - amp is also 300W - bass speaker is 10") Both are good general-purpose cabs (they make good monitors too), but neither setup would acceptably ampilfy bass at a gig (except in emergency, in a very small venue). To do so, you'd need to add on another powered (or another amp and crossover) bass cab (bin) - or two/three/four... So essentially, if you've got bass bins, you're probably OK - if you've only got 'boxes on sticks' you're not.
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Where's the amplifier? You need screened (like a guitar cable) before the amp, you need speaker cable from the amp to the speakers...
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That depends entirely on your PA - more info required...
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Purchased a Japanese precision fretless neck. The neck is in fine shape, very well packed and arrived promptly. Excellent communications throughout - I have no hesitation in recommending Bill. Cheers Stewart
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I've had a 1001 and 2 1x12 NEOs for about a year and a half - they suit me fine. Must have done twenty-thirty gigs, and no problems so far. (I'll probably regret writing that! )
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Or fit an alternative preamp with a passive option. Bartolini definitely do - I have one, and I think Aguilar may too...
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My fave (so far) is my Tonefactor 442B (now known as Boomstick Bottom Feeder) The EBS BassIQ isn't bad and it allows reverse sweep - good to use with other filters...
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FS: Fender Japan Unlined Fretless P-Bass Neck - SOLD
Stewart replied to dmz's topic in Basses For Sale
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[quote]Anyway, as good as it is in rehersal (where i play about half my gigging volume) it loses a bit of it's punch at gigs. At rehersal, it thumps and punches along and really cuts through tonally as well, and once I lock in with the drummer it really drives the whole band. At gigs though, it doesn't quite have the same effect. It's not a volume issue, there's more than enough of that, it just seems to lose that bass 'punch', the almost rhythmic pound that drives along. And if I throw in a quick fill here and there, say on the G string for instance, it's even worse- the whole bass just drops away. You can hear the notes easily, it's not a volume issue, (I spent ages setting the pick up height and the strings seem to be of equal volume, and it's never been a problem at rehersal) it's just the rhythmic punch just drops away as soon as I hit the G string. I don't want to sacrifice the drive of the band for the sake of a quick bass riff, but it would be nice to have both. I want the bass to have that punch even at gig volume, and to keep that punch whenever I venture forward with a fill![/quote] I suspect the problem is rig and/or room rather than bass... Is the problem the sound you're hearing on stage or the audience are hearing out front?
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The 'limit' is frequently the level dictated by the drumkit, other instruments, the PA or the venue. The 1001 is seriously powerful (verging-on dangerous...) I bought it because it was only a little more than a 700 at the time. I can play large pubs without any PA support and I'm sure I could annihilate anyone else on the stage with ease - but that's never a requirement I can't see you ever approaching maximum output (particularly with a 410) in any circumstances... (Anywhere you could use those levels you'd be through the PA anyway). The advice is still to use your ears to determine 'that's enough'. P.S. Use earplugs - especially if you're playing around with your cables/effects pedals just in front of your cab (guess how I know...)
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It's ideally suited (primarily because it can use the biamp feature of the 700/1001s) Don't be overly concerned about the power ratings (I have a 1001 and use one or two Neo112s...) If it sounds like it's having trouble, turn it down!
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I'd recommend a NeoTech or Comfort Strapp if you haven't tried one, but concur with seeing an osteopath/chiropractor anyway...
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I emailed asking about the weight about six months ago and never got a reply...