Stewart

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='170368' date='Apr 5 2008, 06:31 PM']... but if Badass are so great, how come all the UK's custom builders dont use them.[/quote] Aesthetics mostly, I'd imagine - They can't be described as elegant, can they? (In my opinion they suit precisions, but not jazzes...) One of my main requirements for a bridge is quick-release for the strings, once I've got the new one none of my (5) basses will require me to poke the entire length of each string through a hole - which is as it should be, I reckon !

I like the Hipshot bridges. I've got a 'Vintage' on my Jazz-thing: And I'm about to replace the bridge on my precision with one of these: (Which uses 3 of the standard Fender 5-hole fittings) I want a bit of side-to-side adjustment on that one...

The only units I have personally used enough to comment on are the Compounder and the Behringer MDX1600 (which is good value and fairly tasteful at lower ratios - gets a bit knarly cranked-up) I've heard good things about the DBX 166, and even better things aboth the 160 but that's very pricey... If you haven't spent some time with one, I wouldn't spend too much money (and on that basis the 3630 is obviously a possibility) There will be plenty more suggestions though, I'm sure...

I agree entirely on the Compunder - a lovely compressor (and gate) Not cheap though... The Alesis sometimes goes by the name dirty-six dirty - but perhaps they're just being unkind...? The Behringers aren't bad at low ratios.

I quite like the Hipshot vintage bridge - there's a pic here:

Very nice - that's a lovely looking neck. I'm not over-keen on the oiled Korina (I think that's what it is?) body, but that's just personal taste - I bet it sounds fabulous. There's something special about a bass where you've had control over the parts used (never mind the assembly) Did you assemble everything with the option of fitting a pickguard if you wanted to? Anyway, I hope you're very happy together!

OBBM makes up suitable cables, so I'd imagine he could also supply an internal loom to your drivers...

P-like neck, but slimmer front-back - 41mm nut. The body isn't onepiece- its a laminate. Very nice, but heavy as ****!

Hi, In the M-Audio control panel - under Hardware Settings select -10dBV for the input/s you're using. Although the Delta44 is line input level only, there's quite a difference between +4 and -10, and I find it's adequate with a bit of gain from a Behringer BDI21 - you should be OK with a POD You might find that either/both Ibanezes have internal gain controls to play with too - I used to have a DWB3 but can't remember for sure now... (though more gain will obviously lead to shorter battery life.)

Beautiful birdseye

[quote name='BOD2' post='142945' date='Feb 19 2008, 11:04 AM']Do you have another E-string you could swap in (even an old one) ? It would be worth trying that just to eliminate the string itself from the problem.[/quote] Definitely the next step...

I agree with most of this - there's plenty of nice (electrical specs and build quality) cable like Van Damme, Klotz and Sommer around - put that with well built, well screened connectors and you can't easily go wrong. Get OBBM to make it, and you don't need to risk even that. I don't need any gold, silver or unidirectional voodoo!!

[quote name='Hit&Run' post='135976' date='Feb 7 2008, 06:41 PM']I've got some dimarzio model J (DP123) pups in my squier 70s VMJ and they're sweet. Series & parallel wiring/switching is an option I took advantage of (why not?), and Dimarzios can be had for very reasonable prices from the [url="http://www.bestbassgear.com/dimarzio-pickups.htm"]USA[/url].[/quote] Unfortunately, they can't sell them to you in the UK (I've tried) - DiMArzio have 'authorised dealers' over here who sell for a few pounds more than the dollar price in the states... dirt rotten scoundrels (Nice pickups though)

I've got a Behringer doing an OK job for that - an MDX1600, it sounds reasonable at lower ratios, but I only have it in the monitor chain as a last-ditch limiter really... I don't use it for recording. I also have a Focusrite Compounder which is a lovely piece of kit, but considerably more expensive - it depends whether you intend to use it for recording, I'd say (and then you would really need to audition it).

Yamaha make nice small mixers, I reckon. I bought an Alesis 12R in the end because I wanted rack-mounting and small. I've had mixed experiences with Behringer - I'd probably concur that it's best avoided for essential items like the mixer. Of the cheaper active monitors, I like Samson and Yamaha - but I haven't checked anything recently. You should probably factor in a decent limiter/compressor too - synths (and PCs) can generate all sorts of stuff on occasion that you *really* don't want to hear at the full output of your amplification!

Black & Decker workmate perhaps?

[quote name='mr.sibs' post='125173' date='Jan 22 2008, 12:42 AM']i have been trying and failing to solder my badass bridge so i can ground it, but its not biting. ive tried scratching away the surface but its no use. i have a 30w iron that seems to heat it up okay but the solder just wont stick. any secrets?? ta[/quote] You're never going to solder to something with that mass with even a 60W iron! But you really don't need to anyway- good physical contact with the surface should be adequate. If you feel you want more, use a small screw into the base.

£157.20 from Thomann

I've got the Behringer in use as DI/boost for my 'PC studio' setup, which it does well enough. The warmth/distortion/EQ stuff is good but takes considerable fiddling to get right I find - plus the knobs are fiddly and will move with passing traffic... I also have a Programmable SansAmp - it gives you a choice of three settings which don't get 'overwritten' by knob movement unless you store them. I take that one to practice and gigs. It's built like a tank, and is very good on batteries (unlike the Behringer...) I tend to use it mostly as a three-preset EQ pedal (with a little dirt on two of the three settings) If I want 'classic tubey' sound, I go straight for Dave Hall's VT1 Mk3 - it just sounds superb. All the above are gain-dependant though, so if you have a mix of pickup settings and/or passive/active basses you too can be fiddling for hours on end!

A lovely pair of Bi-amp cables for my GK RB rig from OBBM. I thought the GK cables were pretty good, but they're bellwire compared with these - you could go welding! Great price and quick delivery too.

I've only been playing for two years after a thirty year (!) layoff, and wasn't playing with anyone until last summer. Started jamming with some guys I contacted over the net, but it became obvious that they weren't going to put much effort/commitment into learning numbers, they were happy just showing off their licks or "finding their tone" - so I just went for a bassist slot with an existing band and got it. There's nothing quite like playing in a band - if it falls apart, I'll go find/start another.

I use Beyer DT250s and 150s - both work well. 250s are more comfy - a little more 'hi-fi' - 150s isolation is better - very analytical. DT231s are surprisingly good too , very light - work well for general listening, but very poor isolation, and they'll fly off your head at any excuse (fortunately they bounce very well).

I (so far) run with almost everything flat - a little EQ to help with the room, that's all. I've never been much above 1/2, with almost no 'boost' at any time, so haven't got into 'growl' country yet... But I'd definitely put 'punchy' in there! I bought mine (and a pair of 1x12 Neos) after hearing Kiwi's RB700 combo (with a variety of basses) at the SouthEast bash - haven't regretted it.