Stewart

Hiya, You should check-out OBBM on here (don't know if he'll do multicores though..) Also check out studiospares [url="http://www.studiospares.com"]http://www.studiospares.com[/url]

Hi Dave, [quote name='DHA' post='14969' date='Jun 10 2007, 10:33 AM']... I think just a splitter and extra op-amp should give a line-level DI. Does anyone know what the impedance and level of a DI out is?[/quote] It should be capable of feeding 600 ohm at 0dB. There's a nice transformerless circuit here (figure 3): [url="http://sound.westhost.com/project87.htm"]http://sound.westhost.com/project87.htm[/url] Cheers, Stewart

I've got one in my almost-a-precision thing - a 'vintage hot' if I remember right. Sounds great, but I couldn't swear it sounds authentic as I've never had the pleasure with a 'real' one...

Hi, [quote name='wateroftyne' post='14371' date='Jun 8 2007, 08:58 PM']... so I've bought a good quality regulated PSU instead. It's 9v 360mA. Should that be OK? Unfortunately, it doesn't work.. rather, it does but there's a noticable 'wooshing' noise in the background. Dammit. ...[/quote] Sounds like poor noise filtering on the PSU (though I'm surprised the EBS doesn't do a better job). It'd be best to take it back (say it's very 'noisy') and get another (in case it's just a bad example. Failing that you'd have to add filtering (add capacitors across or coils in-line (or both) with the DC side... The easiest/best place to do that is in the EBS though - which you probably don't want to go messing with! You may be better just getting another unit...

[quote name='MoJ' post='13234' date='Jun 6 2007, 07:18 PM']Having just had a look at the main page for the different cab designs the T39, even loaded wioth a 12" driver doesnt seem to have a great response below 30 Hz. As you already know, my knowledge on these things is limited (which is one great reason for coming to Basschat as its a mine of information given by some very knowledgeble folk) but as I understand low B on bass guitars is someting like 30 Hz. Is there someting Im missing? ...[/quote] It looks very reasonable to me - those graphs would change out of all recognition in a room anyway... The thing is - that graph is always going to nosedive below around 50Hz to bugger-all at 20Hz or so (at which point you're not so-much hearing anyway...) Reproducing low B is always going to be a struggle for any loudspeaker, regardless of cabinet.

I use tri-amping for my 'stereo system'... The good news is that the system used by most analog crossovers is so simple to do well that you might just as well get a Behringer or Samson as a more expensive make. Or make one/build a kit... There's one here (second item down): [url="http://sound.westhost.com/projects-3.htm"]http://sound.westhost.com/projects-3.htm[/url] Passive (in the speaker) crossovers are a nasty mix of coils and capacitors - nowhere near linear, and probably 18dB/Octave cutoff slope at the very best, whereas the Linkwitz-Riley filters used in most rackmount crossovers are (or should be) better in every respect and also have slopes of 24dB/Octave - meaning you can push both/all drivers harder and closer to their ideal frequency ranges. It's the single most staggering improvement I've ever made to my audio gear. Whether or not it's worth it for a bass rig, I couldn't say - but try it on your stereo if you can beg another stereo amp and don't mind a bit of soldering inside your speakers! (It's worth having identical amps if you want to get serious, but you'll probably be blown away even with sub-optimal matching)

If you like it a lot, I'd recommend considering the programmable version (basically three different settings selected by three footswitches) - it's $205 from here: [url="http://www.bestbassgear.com/sansamp-bass-programmable-driver-di.htm"]http://www.bestbassgear.com/sansamp-bass-p...e-driver-di.htm[/url] I don't see me ever getting rid of mine

Very promptly delivered Boss pedal, looking good and very well packed. Recommended!

Purchased a fretless Cort - Bass was as described, shipped promptly and well-packed. Pleasant to deal with throughout - recommended.

Please post if happy with a deal... (Or indeed not!)

I wouldn't go for the additional-hole idea... Here's how I did it (MightyMite maple precision neck into WD Music precision alder body). Once you can get the neck into the pocket (might require some sanding), just seat it well down and as far in (towards the bridge) as it will go. If there's a little side-side movement, try and hold it in the centre of the swing (a clamp can be handy here, or another pair of hands) and mark through the body for the four holes (a nail is fine). If you mess-up (or want to double-check), just use some crayon or something to cover the previous marks, and do it again. Drill the holes smaller than you need, and a little less deep, then use some smaller screws to bolt the neck on with the plate. Use some wax on the screws, and back out if you think they might break! Ensure that the screws are seated in the plate well, but not fully tight. Then you just need to loosely string on an E and G string to check the side-side alignment (actually I used some fishing line, rather than strings, as I hadn't fitted the machine heads at the time). If you need more movement, you can get some when you enlarge the holes to fit the real screws (just 'steer' the drill in the direction required) but I doubt you'll need to - the neck/pocket fit should be near-enough perfect anyway. The real big no-no is overtightening and breaking a screw (don't ask me how I know...) Other than screw-breaking (damn!) that approach worked perfectly for me, but get some more opinions! Cheers, Stewart

I might be a bit out of touch, but Cascamite was what my Dad (and woodwork teacher at school) were always pushing - and it looks like it's still available...

I thought the 4 strings were all 3/4" - but I could be wrong...