Stewart

Flyfisher's approach is the one I'd go for, but you're wise to be slightly wary - you've got mains going into the transformer, after all, and significant currents out the other side too. Generally they're probably more accessible than any other component, and as pointed out are usually a single nut and bolt fitting (with a collection of washers between) - you can't really go wrong assuming you can get to it OK, but DO KEEP NOTES/DRAWINGS as you go (so you know what goes before/after what when you put it back together!) It's quite likely that the noise is simply a loose fixing nut or any of those washers vibrating against each other/the case... If you can remove the transformer from it's spindle fixing (lay it on a piece of wood or something) and it's still buzzing then it'll be obvious that it's the transformer at fault. If you don't fancy it, then don't do it!

Transformers are generally pretty quiet (unless the windings have come loose and are vibrating) Check that it's mounting is tight, and that any washers involved are in good shape Toroidal simply means it's doughnut-shaped (and much less likely to induce noise (hum) into nearby wiring and circuitry than old school transformers) If it really is noisy then a replacement should be feasible (but likely won't be any lighter... that's primarily a function of the power rating...)

Try this thread for starters... [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=122227&hl=blues+rock"]Blues numbers[/url]

Or these: [url="http://www.andertons.co.uk/headphones/pid11691/cid600/beyerdynamic-dt770m-closed-back-headphones.asp?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=pricecomp&utm_campaign=GoogleShopping"]DT770M[/url]

Bought a MXR SmartGate pedal - arrived almost immediately, in great condition Good comms throughout - happy to recommend on the basis of my purchase Cheers naruki Stewart

I concur - much happier with Elites for my rounds I've had too many sets with one or more dead

Very different precisions there - particularly in the neck department... In the absence of any country of origin, they're usually Mexican (?)

I've got a plastic fretless - a Cort Curbow Quite a few Ibanez plastics around too....

Perhaps you'd get more interest if you stated it was 'vintage' - the problem is that not many solid state items of that age are particularly desirable.

OK, as Peter Green and Stevie Ray Vaughn have been taken , I'll go for Stan Webb!

There's a Japanese Bass Collection for sale here somewhere - if it's anything like my 5 string, that would be a good bet

Isn't it D# ? (basically 6th fret on A then E strings, then 4th fret A string, then 6th, 4th an 2nd on E....)

From memory I think they are somewhere around 6 - 6.5k

Not a particularly good price, that: [url="http://www.dv247.com/studio-equipment/dbx-266xl-compressor-limiter-gate--914"]DV247 price[/url] but this would be a better buy IMO: [url="http://www.dv247.com/studio-equipment/dbx-166xl-dual-compressor-limiter-gate--4422"]DBX 166XL[/url] if you can't stretch to a 160...

Why not just use a DI box (one with a 30 or 40dB pad - there are several) hanging straight of the speaker output ?

[quote]I read deep in another forum somewhere that going from XLR to 1/4 inch jack solved someone elses DI problem with an LM2.[/quote] Yes, "Unbalancing" a balanced signal by connecting directly to an unbalanced stage (like connecting a XLR to a mono jack) will always lose you 6dB. Not the best way to attenuate a signal though, and definitely not a good idea on a long run. Inputs on mixers are almost always differential/balanced - microphone or line. Whether 'stereo' jacks or XLR connectors are used isn't relevant

You could get an attenuator like this: [url="http://www.studiospares.com/mic-accessories/pro-10db-inline-attenuator/invt/568570/?htxt=JmKYN1biLBFcPn94DCGNsBqSItmTIEyXt%2Bt38Pe6LkNPGq9HZa0UU4GeqxvAEUH4A4bXKZCM0iWu%0AJpg9HOCL4w%3D%3D"]Attenuator[/url] But a decent desk should be able to use the output from any signal from mic up to 'hot' line levels... And a decent engineer should be able to produce the gear required to cope if the desk didn't for any reason...

Rotosound Tru Bass will stay black forever, but they're completely unlike any other string (that I've tried anyway), and might well need the nut opening-up as they're pretty heavy guage. I like to have a set on a bass, but they don't suit every style (and pace) of music - they're somhow inherently sluggish...

Had the same problem exactly - had to get rid of my super-slinky Doug Wimbish Ibanez Everything (4-string) I have now has got a P neck on it - no more problems

[url="http://www.axesrus.com/axeElectronicsWire.htm"]Shielding[/url]

[quote]Does anyone have any experience of buying parts from Warmoth & assembling them? I'm guessing that, other than the final set-up, it will be no harder than stripping down a guitar for a clean up & re-assemble?[/quote] You'll also need to drill all the holes for the machineheads, pickups (sometimes...), pickguard and strap locks Then it's just wiring-up the electrics It's pretty simple - just don't rush anything A great company to deal with in my experience

Fitting two disimilar drivers in cabs designed for another (and sealing one in the process) is not likely to lead to sonic nirvana - never mind completely ruining any resale value they might have I'm with jonthebass - don't do it!

I think you'll find that the TTL output is fixed at 5v (peak) for use with logic circuits, and is probably always a square wave even if the oscillator can produce other waveforms - the other output is probably variable. To use either output it you connect the cable outer screen/braid conductor of the cable to the common/earth on the oscillator. The inner core conductor of the cable is connected to either TTL or Output (this ends up going to the tip of the jack plug at the other end) 5v (TTL output) is a very high level signal for most musical/audio equipment, so I'd recommend the other output (assuming it has a level control and that you check you're not putting out enough voltage to damage the input of your gear). But try searching for the exact model of oscillator and you'll probably find a manual which is the only way you'll know for sure.

The outer wrap (rather than the inner core) is your earth connection

I wouldn't be too concerned about the rating of the resistors (if you *must* use them at all) - you're never going to be running at anything like the rated power for any appreciable period of time. As to the question: Why don't speaker cabs have intrinsic circuits to protect speakers from blowing out? Given the variable nature of virtually everything concerned (power handling at specific frequencies, impedance at specific frequencies, compliance, maximum excursion blah blah...) you'd need something like a preprogrammed 'smart' circuit breaker to suit the model of driver in the cab concerned. Even if such a device existed it would likely cost more than every other component. It is much easier to do at line signal levels, and many active PA cabs use a DSP to practically achieve what you're after - but it was an intrinsic part of the design from the outset - and includes the amplifier/s in the equation.