Stewart

Four of these would probably be fine: [url="http://www.rapidonline.com/sku.aspx?tier1=Electronic+Components&tier2=Resistors+%26+Potentiometer&tier3=Power+Resistors&tier4=Aluminium+clad+wirewound+resistors&moduleno65217&catref=62-8140"]50W resistor[/url] As to why you might not want a fuse in line with the speaker, just think about why you might want some nice heavy duty cables to drive your speaker/s...? Edit: Add amp comment: Solid-state amps will drive a high resistance all day - no bother

My advice: 1 If you must fit them (rather than keep an eye on the volume control and your ear out for any nasty sounds) - Yes 2 Don't use a fuse or a circuit breaker 3 N/A 4 Not really.... 5 Not a lot 6 Makes no difference 7 Large stepper motor drive circuits perhaps

You'll generally plug the main output/s into the FOH amp/s and pre-fade auxiliary output/s into your monitor amps (pre-fade because you don't want your monitors changing when someone moves the channel faders) You'll probably run your Alesis from a post-fade auxiliary output (and suitable return) unless you are using individual inserts on channels... Need more info/pics to be of much more help...

geofio: I HAVE NEVER HEARD A SINGLE BASS I LIKED WITH THOSE EMG HZ PICKUPS, UNLIKE THE MANY I'VE HEARD WITH EMG PICKUPS (NO HZ) - BUT MAYBE YOURS WOULD BE THE ODD ONE OUT... I MIGHT BE AN INTERESTED PUNTER WANTING TO KNOW A BIT MORE ABOUT THE THING THOUGH (HOW MUCH WAS IT NEW PERHAPS, WHAT IS THE WIDTH AT THE NUT?, WHAT STRINGS ARE ON IT? (OR IS 'NEW'THE MAKE?), HOW WOULD YOU COMPARE IT TO OTHER BASSES YOU'VE HAD? WHAT DOES IT WEIGH? - IT COULDN'T HZ EVERYONE ELSE: You shouldn't be harrassing this new member, he may well be from another environment where using lower case is threatening behaviour, and following any advice given by those who use such 'dark magic' would obviously be a foolish course of action to take! STAMP OUT CASEISM NOW!

I'd say that sounds more like a drummer's story than a recording engineer's tale !

All of this audio stuff is a compromise, but some things are 'easy wins' or (even more ghastly...) 'low-hanging fruit'... For example sticking your rig as close to the back wall, as near to a corner as possible will considerably improve your output - why would you NOT want to do that? Another example would be using cabs with (ideally) identical drivers closely vertically aligned, which will considerably improve your horizontal dispersion (that's left to right in non-tech speak) - why would you NOT want to do that?

These are often recommended (though I haven't heard them personally...): [url="http://www.studiospares.com/pa-speakers/studiospares-fortissimo-12a-active-single/invt/248250/"]Studiospares 12" Active PA[/url]

Something like this should be OK (though you'd need to get/make a 16A CE to 13A adaptor for this one): [url="http://www.screwfix.com/prods/61847/Electrical-Supplies/Industrial/Site-Distribution/Portable-Transformer-with-2-Output-Sockets-1-5kVA?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Electrical%20Supplies-_-Portable%20Transformer%20with%202%20Output%20Sockets%201.5kVA"]Transformer[/url] But it'll be heavy and generally a pain... Ultimately I'd get someone to change the amp transformer

[quote name='Putty' post='1013667' date='Nov 5 2010, 07:28 PM']Ok, got everything setup now. DI out on amp to line in on my external soundcard with 30cm cable. It's working great (better sound and nice to have stereo for once) but I'm getting a very annoying constant high pitched tone which I don't get if I use the standard line output on the amp. Any ideas on how to get rid of this other than post recording noise removal? Thanks again for the help[/quote] There's no stereo involved from the DI output. Start by checking the wiring. A good place to get wiring details is here: (There are a number of variables, including whether you have single or twin shielded cable. At the 3.5 mm end you should probably choose left or right only, but you might be OK running L + R from the same signal) [url="http://www.rane.com/note110.html"]Rane Interconnect details[/url] Make sure the Ashdown and computer are sharing the same mains supply - run them from the same 4/6/8 way mains adaptor - along with any other audio devices you have attached to either the amp or PC (like powered speakers..) Otherwise it's just a matter of elimination... If you have/can borrow another amp/combo (or perhaps active monitors) then you can use your DI out through that and see if you hear the same noise (make sure the PC and any other unused gear is off for this) - if so it's virtually guaranteed that the Ashdown's producing the noise (might be a fault or a 'feature'....) If not, keep swapping things out / turning things off - networking/wireless gear, modems, TVs, radios and game/computer gear are often 'noisy' Good luck!

[quote name='4 Strings' post='1012329' date='Nov 4 2010, 05:29 PM']... Even with bi-amps there's no crossover so the same goes to both (sets of) speakers.[/quote] The term bi-amp (to me) implies a crossover at signal/line level with two power amps feeding individual high/low frequency speakers There isn't a term I'm aware of for multiple differing drivers being fed by one or more amps without any form of crossover, but I'd like to suggest JBOS (Just a Bunch Of Speakers)

You won't need a DI box if you're using the DI out from the amp, but you will be 'unbalancing' the connection when you go from differential (the XLR connector) to single-ended (the mini jack) - which will lose you a bit of gain, and its inherent noise-defeating properties (so don't use longer-than-necessary cables) The main thing is to ensure you don't overload the input of your sound card Many will have some form of control panel with metering Bear in mind that 'line level' typically means 100-250mV for 'domestic/PC purposes' and 775mV for 'Pro Audio'

I wouldn't be sure that's dried mud... Lots of cones are treated with strange compounds

[url="http://www.hotroxuk.com/t-rex-pedals-mudhoney-gristle-overdrive-6835-0.html"]Hotrox UK[/url]

The Hot Vintage are very strong at the bottom end - quite easy to get into feedback on loud stages - particularly hollow stages, but a bit of low cut usually keeps things under control. Nice attack to the notes, with a big 'thump' They fit right in for blues/rock in particular. I like them a lot - they've survived my plans of converting completely to Di Marzios.

[quote name='risingson']Three words... Boards of Canada.[/quote] Agreed Tangerine Dream?

A dual-trace oscilloscope would be my first choice...

Bought a Radial DI from Clarky. A pleasant experience all round - goods exactly as described, well packed, prompt and friendly communications throughout - I'd have no hesitation in dealing again

I'd have expected most people to have mentioned circuit breakers, but nobody has... [u][b]CIRCUIT BREAKER ![/b][/u]

Invariably 1 - But changing the angle/shape so that I'm muting (or partially..) the string not being played

Agree with both the previous replies - plus there's far too much "We did <all this stuff>" which isn't really relevant (being the past...)

Here's a couple of pics, the first shows 4 heads - the left hand is a 'special' Fender Japan, with the same size tuner pins as the second head (USA), the two on the right are 'standard Fender Japan' as far as I'm aware. [attachment=58771:P9140013.JPG] The distance between E and G centres is identical on all four (~143mm), but the pins are ~ 13mm diameter on the LH pair, and around 11mm on the right. The rear of one of the RH Japanese is in the following pic - the plate is smaller than any other type I have to compare with (no Mexicans so far...) [attachment=58772:P9140014.JPG]

Ah just re-read... I'm guessing your J (larger tuners) will be standard - there are pics and some dimensions on this site that might help: [url="http://www.bestbassgear.com/hipshot-tuners.htm"]BestBassGear[/url] I don't think you'll have much joy with the smaller tuners though.