Stewart

You might find a used dbx 166 for that sort of money - which would be a much better prospect IMO

Take a close look at the driver and make sure there isn't any garbage behind the grill that might be making contact (eg gaffa tape) Make sure all the external screws are present, and tight Wrap up the handles with some cloth and see if it's them vibrating If your cab is under warranty, stop there, and take it back where you got it Otherwise take off the grill, remove the driver and check whether the speaker leads might be coming into contact with the cone, or any loose wadding or somesuch As you've got two, the next step for me would be to swap over the drivers - if the distortion/noise moves to the other cab, it's the driver - otherwise something in the cab...

Got a 'Vintage Hot' P pickup in one of mine - a very dark and rumbly bottom end. I often think about replacing it, but never have... I'm pretty sure I'd miss it.

[quote name='Kirky' post='682153' date='Dec 12 2009, 01:45 PM']The tweeter stopped working a few months ago....[/quote] You probably just need to replace one of the bulbs that GK use as tweeter fuses. I believe Thomann(.de) sell them (along with most if not all the drivers)

[quote]... Apart from altering the eq mid set (which I don't want to do) ...[/quote] Why not? It's likely just a tweak off the Bass/Low control...

I'm perfectly happy with my cables, even though they are unfussy about which 'direction' they're pointing. They even have the same connectors, 10m, but cost less than half the price of those 3m jobs. Obviously the saving must have been made in the cable - I mean who'd trust cable made by a bunch of Klotz?

With the great smell of snake oil mmmmmmm

Actually, I don't think I'd want it sync'd-up perfectly - a bit of slow tremolo ahead of the beat (or behind it..) works great for some slower (particularly soulful/bluesy) numbers. The difference forms another pulse of its own, not dissimilar to a leslie-cabbed keyboard - harder to describe than appreciate...

Always good with me too - but it's always been the shop, not online. I wouldn't pop in there to get a good deal on a set of strings over the counter, and I wouldn't sell or part-exchange one of my basses, but generally they're remarkably good.

[quote name='brianliverpool' post='737928' date='Feb 7 2010, 11:16 AM']so whats a nice smooth bright 40,s bass string set....[/quote] Elixir light? Seem pricey,but they're not...

I fold the leather ends over so the straplocks go through the 'longer' and 'shorter' holes...

I'm not au fait with Mark Bass stuff, but XLR on a head to line in on a mixer should just work (given the checks Phaedrus advises) I'd question whether the approach is sound though... Blending some backline with some (small) PA to 'spread the sound out' is more likely to mess the sound up - particularly at the low end.

[quote]... I have a/b it with other leads and its louder[/quote] Wow - an amplifying cable!

[quote name='chardbass']... Am I right in thinking that setting up in the [i]corner[/i] of a pub, the bass is always going to sound pretty hideous?[/quote] I'd say it was invariably the best place to be, provided you're near enough to the walls

Well, there's nothing to stop you trying - though you might find the low end limits imposed by those PA cabs means quite a bit of compromise in level and tone. Then again, playing in the corner of a pub is already a considerable compromise... Will the guitarist be ditching his rig and joining you through the PA?

[quote name='JD1' post='701020' date='Jan 4 2010, 09:47 PM']Anyone got a view on what attenuator to get?[/quote] Depends... if you're dropping from line level to suit a mic preamp (a very bad idea, but...) you'd probably need 50dB or so really A 10 or 20dB would be a good thing to have handy, I reckon

We'd need to know what the PA consists of to give any meaningful answer...

The only really sensible approach is to have a variable output DI, as Gallien Krueger do with their RB heads...

These are cheap and useful: [url="http://www.studiospares.com/Mic-Accessories/Pro-10Db-Inline-Attenuator/invt/568570"]Attenuator[/url] They do 10, 20, 30 & 40 dB models Alternatively Shure do a switched unit: [url="http://www.studiospares.com/Mic-Accessories/Shure-A15AS-Inline-Attenuator/invt/423760"]Shure attenuator[/url]

.775 will be the correct setting (0dBA)

[quote name='Musicman20' post='689394' date='Dec 19 2009, 09:15 PM']Names and logos aren't anything, but I really think the BF ones could do with a change. All IMO of course.[/quote] Yes, like that tedious Marshall thing with the joined-up writing, and as for Hiwatt - well it's just incrediblylame - looks like a 'sixties taxi company sign

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' post='684013' date='Dec 14 2009, 02:14 PM']Don't bi-amp. ...[/quote] Probably the best advice all round

[quote name='jmsjabb' post='684170' date='Dec 14 2009, 04:52 PM']... Do most cabinets have xovers in them?[/quote] No [quote]I have a single 12" which has no xover. Should I add one to stop it trying to out put too much low?[/quote] No. But if you did want to high-pass filter (to remove sub-audio signals) then you'd be much better off doing it electronically at line level. In practice, your amp probably already does to some extent. Passive crossovers are an occasionally-necessary evil IMO

It's all pretty-much guesswork unless you have known parameters to work with (like a comparable frequency-response plot for both completed cabs) I'd hazard a guess that you won't be quite into PA sub specs with your larger driver cab, so probably higher than 120Hz, and likely way less than 500Hz.... The advantage you have is that you're unlikely to do any damage - as you don't have any high frequency drivers. Personally, I'd want a variable frequency (at least to find the best setting) If you're set on building your own fixed frequency crossover, why not just hire one (almost any PA hire company) or buy a Behringer, and it'll double as a spare.

I'm not actually familiar with any of those specific items, but both the bass and the amp have some form of EQ right? ...