bigjohn

Mic'ed and DI for me. I like recording with my Ampeg B3158 (that's in the for sale forum - shamless plug ) When I've used that I've had one mic on the 8", one on the 15" and one DI. It's a great recording rig.

[url="http://www.ampeg.com/pdf/SVT-3PRO.pdf"]http://www.ampeg.com/pdf/SVT-3PRO.pdf[/url] Looks to me from the system block diagram that the master volume is before the power amp in. Also looks like the tube gain is separate from the EQ and is after the power amp in - so that should still work.

[quote name='waynepunkdude' post='695766' date='Dec 29 2009, 05:48 PM']*DEEP BREATH*[/quote] Did you breathe out yet? You should be able to pick up a very decent 2nd bass and amp for £250 - at this sort of price level you really shouldn't buy new - resale value of £250 of new stuff will be £100 if you're lucky. If you buy wrong - much less. And if you carry on learning and playing bass, you'll probably want to move this stuff on pretty quick. However - £150 should get you a nice bass which could last you a few years and still be worth that sort of money when you come to want to move it along. Similarly with a practice amp - you should be able to get a decent little amp for £100 2nd hand. The squier guitars are pretty cool for that sort money. I'm not sure about amps on that sort of budget but I'm sure there are those on here that are. I agree about lessons. I've never taken any but I'm 100% sure I'd have learned a LOT quicker and easier if I had.

Aye, I like my mex deluxe. You shouldn't expect them to sound like a Precision OR a Jazz though. Although mine is more precision than jazz.

I thought they were 2x12s? I've been looking for one for one for ages... Lucky git!

I absolutely love my Ampeg B50R Rocketbass. It's a bit OTT for a practice amp but it sounds great 50W into an Ampeg 'vintage' 12". And so pretty the woman of the house allows it to live in the living room. It's the only amp that's ever been allowed to do that.

[quote name='Beedster' post='685014' date='Dec 15 2009, 11:59 AM']So anyway, back to the original question If everyone seems to be for a straightish neck with raised saddles, which I'm not arguing with, are there any advantages of increasing the relief that can't be had through increasing saddle height alone? C[/quote] Shouldn't you be able to achieve a generally less choked lower action through relief and shim than with a straight neck and saddle height? Surely the straight neck does the oscillation of the plucked string no favours in terms of fret buzz? I like a low action and find I need more relief to get one when I set up a bass for TIs which move a lot more than standard tension strings. That said, because they're lower tension I tend to have to tighten the truss when putting them on in first place. And I just use trial and error really to get to a point where there's no buzz, then I use the saddles to get the action as low as I can. I tend not to bother with shims unless I can't get to a point where I'm happy.

The Beddy is a a great venue too! It used to be my local... Ah...

[quote name='moonoid' post='684029' date='Dec 14 2009, 02:28 PM']Hello Bigjohn It does look interesting! How old is the amp? Is it US made? I was just concerned about the lack of power, though this can be misleading of course. Nottingham wouldn't be a problem as our band's road crew is based in Sheffield and I live in Manchester. Eddie[/quote] It's about 12 years old I think. Maybe a little older. Made back in the day when men where men, amps were amps and Ampegs were entirely US made. It's still in A1 condition. It's easy as loud as a BA210. Easy. It also sounds better It was Ampeg's flagship combo when it was new. Not sure about the BA300 or the newer Chinese BA series. They seem much louder and lighter than their old US counterparts.

I'm tellin ya, this is [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=70070&st=0"]the one[/url]!

[quote name='basshead56' post='682032' date='Dec 12 2009, 11:06 AM']Apologies for that. My inner nerd thought it was hilarious! I shall stick to reading comics in my own time and [b]watch The Big Bang Theory[/b] instead [/quote] You can do that?

[quote name='umph' post='680897' date='Dec 11 2009, 01:28 AM']i'd say take it to john at champ electronics but hes taking a break for christmas atm. Whats up with the amp?[/quote] John might not touch it anyway as it's got transistors in it! John Wood is about though - his contact number is on champs website and he'll do trannys.

[quote name='Moos3h' post='680750' date='Dec 10 2009, 10:36 PM']Deffo sounding like it's not quite right, I've had this too with a BadAss before - a quick go with a ROUND file (although this may be contrary to advice elsewhere) and it was sorted. I don't think V shaped grooves are good, the string will not be in contact with enough of the saddle, vs. a rounded shape. Cheers, James[/quote] I must admit, intuitively I've never thought the V shape is a good thing... although... I've had no trouble with my badass, nor have I had any trouble with the vintage spiral fender bridge. Have you tried raising the saddle a touch?

[quote name='AndyMartin' post='680454' date='Dec 10 2009, 05:49 PM']Double outputs on the back of amps and cabs are AFAIK always wired in parallel so taking two leads from the amp to two cabs or taking one lead from the amp to the first cab and then another out of the cab to a second cab will have exactly the same effect, which will be that both cabs will be in parallel. It's quite a confusing concept to get you head round at first. To connect two cabs in series on the amp's output would require a specially made cable.[/quote] Some cabs have two connectors so you can connect them in series. One in, one out. Or you can use the speakon in and jack out. It's easier to think of them as daisychained - the 2nd cab is only connected to the amp through the first cab. so the impedance of the 2nd cab is added to the 1st.

Videos done at rehearsal rooms are great! Though this one is very silly.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='680070' date='Dec 10 2009, 11:39 AM']I think the problem that some people were having with publishing spec sheets was that if some manufacturers are going massage the figures to make their cabs look better on paper then it makes the whole process a mockery. How do you know which figures are relatively unbiased and which are pure fantasy? I mean if. as you said, there are manufacturers adjusting something easily verified like the weight of a cab (and who here other than Alex has actually weighed their cabs to see how close they are to the published figures) what hope is there for anything that requires some actual knowledge of acoustics and specialised equipment to verify? I'm not against the publication of specs, but unless all cabs are tested and measured in the same way, comparison of one cab to another on paper is not particularly meaningful.[/quote] Absolutely - it would be good if this was done independently. Some kind of kitemark type system.