bigjohn

[quote name='Huge Hands' post='517314' date='Jun 18 2009, 12:38 PM']Depends on the crossover I guess. Some of the simpler ones may have fixed, or variable "High" and "Low" outputs but some of the clever ones will give you four separate outputs that can all be high, all be low, some high, some low, some mid - blah blah blah, the world is your adjustable oyster. Still not 100% sure of what you're trying to achieve from you first post? Not a top and a sub, but different frequency range to each cab?[/quote] Ah ok. Well, ideally I'd like a crossover that when I put 2 1/4" mono jacks in, I get 2 1/4" jacks out. But I can't seem to find one. I like to be able to filter out the top and bottom ends on each channel, for each cab independently. So it could be used as a top and a sub if I set the crossover like that, or I could set them to be the same. Or I could use the bottom cab more full range, and use the top cab for middle. So yeah, not specifically a top and a sub, but a different range to each cab.

Hi all, I want to try a crossover in my rig. I've not bought one yet... I'm just looking at manuals and stuff... Rig will be an svtii preamp > crossover > power amp > 2 acme low b2s. the preamp's outputs are 2 unbalanced 1/4 mono jacks, left and right. All the crossovers I've looked at, apart from xlr balanced inputs, all seem to have 2 stereo inputs which then come out as 4 1/4 jacks. High & Low Freq for each channel. Obviously this is to plug in subs and speakers for each channel. However, I don't want / need that. And I don't want to have to plug in one cab as the high and one as the sub. What I want is to be able to use both channels on the crossover, one for each cab, and use the crossover to independently control which frequencies are getting into each cab. But that leaves me with 4 unbalanced jacks going into the power amp. Or two balanced XLRs which will only have a a "high" or "low" output signal. Any ideas? Cheers John

The other thing you could do use hardwood dowel. Drill out the screw hole using a drill bit slightly larger than the dowel, larger than the screw hole, but less wide than the base of your strap button. Sand the dowel by putting it in a drill and holding sandpaper around it. Make the dowel the right length and then glue in using woodglue. Redrill the screw hole. I did this once on a guitar where the strap button screw had sheared and I had to make a bit of a mess of the screw hole to get the sheared screw out. It's never come again and you couldn't tell it's been done, unless you removed the strap button.

[quote name='Stewart' post='514154' date='Jun 15 2009, 01:36 PM']Get any Linkwitz-Riley (24dB/Octave) crossover (Behringer, DBX, Samson, loads of others...) Set it up as a 2-way, and use the high output[/quote] Cool. Gotcha. Are these sort of things a much of a muchness or are some better that others?

I've got a spare space in my rack, and want something with a sweepable high pass filter on it. I don't want another EQ. My preamp already has a parametric and graphic EQ on it. I've found this... [url="http://www.midiwall.com/gear/rs3.html"]MAM rs3 resonator[/url]... But... a) They seem quite rare I think it's more of a synth thing. I don't want to change anything really other than stopping below certain frequencies getting to my speakers. something [url="http://www.apiaudio.com/215l.html"]like this[/url]? Any ideas?

Top drawer as ever.

[quote name='DHA' post='511298' date='Jun 11 2009, 03:23 PM']before you send it back, you did check it with an amp and bass right? If not then it might just be the led, unlikely but could happen. Does the valve get warm?[/quote] I have tested it with a bass and an amp. It's not just the led. I'll leave it on and see if the valve gets warm. Could it be the valve? I've got a spare I could swap out... Could it be the switch? I'm going up to an amp tech tomorrow, I could get him to open it up and check it. Funny enough though... neither PSU gets warm either. [quote name='DHA' post='511305' date='Jun 11 2009, 03:26 PM']It would still work if an e-bomb had gone off as they don't bust valves just solid state. Now theres a selling point [/quote] Post apocalyptic overdrive. I like it

[quote name='DHA' post='511081' date='Jun 11 2009, 12:15 PM']One more thing. As it's a Std then the pedal only lights the valve up with the backlight when the pedal is not in by-pass, ie - on. Did you try the footswitch?[/quote] Yeah, tried the footswitch. Nothing doing. What's wierd is that the switchable PSU is duff (the light doesn't come on). I then buy a new PSU, 12v DC (500mA) and that seems duff too. Either that or the pedal's bust whilst sat in a drawer, in a padded bag, inside a cardboard box, in the spare room. Even if it's just the pedal, why would the switchable PSU not work either? I've tried it in different sockets, upstairs and down. Did someone let off an e-bomb in my spare room?

[quote name='DHA' post='510865' date='Jun 11 2009, 08:49 AM']Power supply connector is centre positive, you may have it the other way round. No harm done if you have.[/quote] Ok. I've tried it both ways around and nothing happens either way. Do I need to have a bass and amp plugged in to get it to light up? I can't remember... I don't have enough leads at the moment, they're all bust / lost. Some will hopefully arrive through the post today. EDIT : I've got the new leads - still nothing doing. So... brand new leads, brand new PSU. Would the pedal light up if the valve has gone (though I wouldn't have a clue why it would have, the pedal's been sat in a cupboard drawer packed in a box for the last year). Also - on the switchable maplin PSUs, should the red light on the transformer come on when it's plugged in, or does current need to be drawn for it to light up? I can't remember that either! Cheers John

Hiya, I've hardly used this since I bought it. Probably 3-4 hours since I bought it last May 08. I plugged it in the other day. nothing doing. I noticed the power light on the psu also didn't work. I thought the psu must be bust. I bought another whilst in maplin yesterday. The straight non-switchable 12v DC one. This doesn't power up the pedal either. Any idea? Cheers John

[quote name='BOD2' post='509684' date='Jun 9 2009, 10:43 PM']I'd be inclined to try connecting from the balanced out on the Ampeg and not the main outs. The level switch sets the signal level at this connector to be microphone level (low) or line level (higher). I would expect it to work at the line level setting but you could experiment with both settings of the switch.[/quote] I'll have a go at that. I haven't got any XLR cables, but I'm going to a rehearsal tonight where there will be some. The two problems I can see do this though are... 1) I'd need an XLR > 2 XLRs for both channels. 2) It leaves no balanced out for the desk.

[quote name='deksawyer' post='509091' date='Jun 9 2009, 02:56 PM']I can't pinpoint the problem for you, but there's something wrong somewhere, that's for sure. Would there be much of a difference in output level between the main out jacks and the XLR out on the Ampeg? D.[/quote] The ampeg is rated as having a 1.0v output before EQ and upto 3.5v with. I'm not sure what the balanced out is... The manual says microphone level (-20db) or line (-0db)... The BK has an input sensitivity of 775mV. It used to run fine with a Pod, which has an input max of 5.5v

[url="http://www.ampeg.com/pdf/SVTIIP.pdf"]Ampeg SVT iip Manual[/url] The pre is excellent condition and has just been serviced and revalved. The valves were checked by Watford Valves when I bought them, and again by the tech who serviced the amp. [url="http://www.bkelec.com/Pro/Amplifiers/MXF1200D.htm"]BK MXF 1200d[/url] 2 x 4Ohm [url="http://www.acmebass.com"]Acme Low b2s[/url] Should be a monster. So far, unfortunately not. It's [i]far[/i] too easy to get the power amp to clip. Not only does it clip. The power amp also has a protection circuit which cuts out any output if you drive it too hard. Which is annoying, especially at a gig when your new 600W per channel amp can't even keep up with a drummer without continuously cutting out. Considering it's 600W per channel, this rig is currently no louder than my 100W Marshall JCM800 (now sold) was with these speakers. And I never had any trouble with that cutting out. Dood has been very helpful when I've asked him about this. He was my first port of call as he's owned an MXF1200d and an ampeg pre-amp before. Thanks to his direction I've got the amp to work without clipping by using the EQ and dropping out all the "low" and 100Hz band. And removing most of the Bass through the parametric EQ. He's suggested getting a high pass filter as a possible solution. Anybody else got any thoughts? Confused. John

Again for lemon oil. I've got a mate who uses tattoo ink to darken rosewood. That works too.

[quote name='steve-soar' post='500190' date='May 28 2009, 07:42 PM']Hi ya mate, I had mine serviced last year, as it was coughing and splutering. It sounds like you may have a few little problems, or such like. Mine had one bad valve, resistor damage, numerous dry joints and it had to have the transformer reterminated, basically, it had over heated in the past, all taking 3 1/2 hours to do. (Just looking at the receipt now). I took it to Dave Lunt in Stockport, it cost me £100. Anyway, it has worked beautifully since and is completely silent. Get in touch if you need 'out else. Steve.[/quote] Cheers Steve. Bloody expensive things these amps aren't they! I took it around to someone tonight and I'm awaiting a quote.

[quote name='Hamster' post='500006' date='May 28 2009, 04:26 PM']This guy comes recommended - [url="http://www.chambonino.com/"]http://www.chambonino.com/[/url][/quote] Ah cheers. I've heard of this guy. I think our guitarist goes to him.

I've just hold of one and it's a little crackly and pOPpy in places - especially the EQ. Although, it's in very clean condition inside and out. I've changed the valves... nice cryo harma retros are in there now, but that hasn't helped that much. So I'm going to have it serviced by an amp tech. I've never had anything serviced like this. How much should this cost? And does anyone know anyone around Nottingham that's good at it? Cheers John

[quote name='ahpook' post='494727' date='May 21 2009, 10:27 PM']the fender cowpokes had j-necks and a p-ish body [/quote] Never seen one of them before. I want one. Damn you

I had an ampeg die on me once. I emailed ampeg - they knew exactly what was wrong with it from a description I gave much like yours above. I'd : 1) email ampeg 2) take it to an amp tech with the schematic and what ampeg say. It's probably not that serious.

Can't make it really. Being in Nottingham n' all. We do a song called "Blue Stragglers" though. I'll be on to the lawyers

Any chance of it without the sample? And some more!

MIM precision bass specials (deluxe) Precision bass + Jazz neck profile neck. Even comes with a bridge jazz pickup, active / passive and rosewood / maple necks. I've put a precision neck on mine

As well as having a front door step covered in greased lightening BigRedX is a gentleman and a bass scholar. And he's got some really good gear!