bigjohn

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='388556' date='Jan 22 2009, 02:26 PM']][/quote] Thanks for that. I needed closure.

[quote name='dollarone' post='388356' date='Jan 22 2009, 11:37 AM']also is the maple fretboard nicer/better than rosewood, or is this merely an aesthetic preference?[/quote] I find maple generally feels less hard than rosewood. But then how a maple board feels is as much to do with the lacquer than anything else. You don't put lacquer on a rosewood board as it's hard enough anyway.

Tis an interesting question. The only other model on Fender's parts list with a serial starting 014 is the the Classic Baja Player Telecaster, which a sort of Mexican custom shop model. Which could mean a few things I suppose. For what it's worth the difference between standard upgrades and standards is they've they've got US electrics. If I was in the market for a new MIM jazz, I'd pay the extra £80. In fact - I'd see if I could find a 2008 70's reissue - but then that's me.

[quote name='Prosebass' post='386487' date='Jan 20 2009, 05:59 PM']Only if you are going to solder earths to it as I do instead of messing up the back of the pots. Its very difficult to solder ali as it requires a special flux and high temperature so I stick copper shielding to it.[/quote] cool. ta.

Anyone know? I'm shielding the body. Is there any point in sheilding the scratch plate? As a side note - it's bloody heavy!

I've used masking tape where you've used paper and that has worked before.

I like it.

I like Fenders. I like gibsons. I like marshall bass amplification. I like ampeg amplification. I like hiwatts. I like whirlwind leads. I like hiscox cases. The only only other stuff I've owned has been cheap and crap and is broken. I've never suffered from bad QC from fender, gibson, marshall, ampeg (well, only once), hiwatts, hiscox or whirlwind so there...

I have an american deluxe bridge plate minus saddles somewhere. If you don't need the saddles I could dig it out and let you have it cheaper than £30! John

Yeah, can play by ear. I can hear a note and say, that sounds like a d or an f#. I'm usually right. I can usually play some sort of accompaniment to songs the first time I hear them because of this. I don't think I'd have learned to be like that if I read music, which I don't at all in any way. I looked a tab book the other day and got quite confused as to why it would be helpful. I do know where the notes are on my bass, but, tend to play by pattern once I've found which key(s) I want to be in. I wouldn't advise learning like this. It took me a long time.

London is great with money. sh*t without. Dick Whittington has a lot to answer for.

I "played" guitar at home for about 6 months before I got a bass. That was about 20 years ago. I've always had one. And enjoy playing other peoples, but hardly play my own. Am thinking of getting a new one I think if I got a nice one I'd play it more. I always enjoy people's reaction to me picking up a guitar though. No-one ever hears me play one so it's a shocker for them when it dawns on em I can play a bit in my own way! Although, thinking about it. I was in the school band playing acoustic when I was about 9. Never knew how to play it though. Just used to strum along! I'm more of a failed drummer than a failed guitarist though. I had lessons at school and was ok at it - but was never allowed a kit at home. Managed to nearly knock the end off my little finger last night playing drums at rehearsal (for one song...) so perhaps that's a good thing!

I bought "Hard Promises" by Tom Petty the other week. Was on a bargain stand for £3. Love it!

Stick a bit of wood glue on the screws. It won't glue em in, but the glue will harden on the wood and add some protection to the wood the next time you take the neck off. ie, when you shim it! BTW, getting the screws in and out is much easier and I've found less damaging all round with a power tool rather than a screwdriver.

I wouldn't order a wiring kit. I'd just order what's in em from allparts. I bought a wiring kit from ebay - you get short changed with the length of wire. And one of the pots was dodgy. Probably a second. Also - there are better caps out there than orange drops. Esp if your going for a vintage pickup - maybe an oil/paper cap would be more in keeping...

[quote name='ednaplate' post='343975' date='Dec 3 2008, 12:33 PM']My Spector Euro has developed what I can only describe as a rattle on the E string. I thought it may have been a problem with the nut but it also occurs whenever I fret a note. All the other strings ring good and true. The E string rings to and then there is this metallic sounding rattle/vibration that is starting to annoy me on an otherwise fantastic guitar. It's due some new strings but before I replace them is there anything else I should consider?[/quote] Has the bridge saddle become lowered?

I bought a 2005 mint FSR gun metal blue MIM Precision earlier on this year for £170. I dunno why was the only bidder. Very odd.

I'm quite tempted... But then I am pissed.

[quote name='bremen' post='328425' date='Nov 13 2008, 03:25 PM']Is that you applying for the research grant then? OK, I'll put in a quid if you try disconnecting all the wiring associated with the J pup and comparing the basses. I have a Wizard J pup that I *might* put in my FrankenP but I'm wary about disturbing its P-ness. tee hee, I said P-ness ps Who's that in your avatar, Tee? Looks like a right yob ;-)[/quote] I'm going to have a good look at the wiring in my PJ anyway at some point, there's a bit of a crackle, and I was gonna change the cap. I was also thinking about wiring it with some concentric pots in a VT/VT/master vol, but have read you can lose output with em so I've bottled it a bit! although I have the parts... Would be an ideal time to see if disconnecting the J pickup increases it's P-ness.

[quote name='bremen' post='328388' date='Nov 13 2008, 02:36 PM']Why do you think this would be? Could it be the magnetic effect of the second pickup on the strings? Surely cutting the recess for the pickup wouldn't make that much difference? Mine was never 'just' a P to start with, actually it's a Warmoth 'dinky P' so it's hard to say whether it'd sound like a P without the J. Maybe I should try adding a J to a real P, just in the interests of science. Where do I apply for the research grant?[/quote] F*ck knows! My PJ though, sounds completely different than my P - both are MIMs from about the same year, both have US pickups in em. Although the straight P has a 62 reissue - there's a massive difference though. There's gotta someone on here who's installed one on a P before. I wonder if it's got something to do with the wiring and caps.

Alright? I love my PJ, but there is a compromise involved with them. For me, they don't really ever sound completely like a P does even with the J totally rolled off. But you do get a much brighter aggressive tone out of them with the J rolled up. Much easier to hear over loud drums and overdrives my amp much more than the P does by itself. I wouldn't consider it jazz growl though. It's more like a brighter, more opened up P. Also - a lot of factory PJs seem to come with Jazz necks on em. Mine sounds and feels a lot more P with the P neck I put on it...

Has anyone tried the [url="http://www.korg.co.uk/products/tuners/pitchjack/tu_pj.asp"]PitchJack[/url]?

[quote name='chris_b' post='324348' date='Nov 7 2008, 05:20 PM']Look in the "For Sale" section for example, "Squier P Bass Special, Red, Great Condition £100". If this is still about, get it!![/quote] I can't recommend that bass enough, although it's not really a precision... It's got a jazz bass pickup and a jazz neck. P Bass specials, although excellent, are somewhere inbetween a precision and a jazz (suprisingly!). Although, mine sounds a lot more precision like with a precision neck on it. If a man wants a precision, he should get a precision. Why not go and try a few in a shop?