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bigjohn

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Everything posted by bigjohn

  1. [quote name='BOD2' post='204911' date='May 23 2008, 12:44 PM']Provided the switch on the push-pull pot is the correct type it shouldn't be a problem. Push-pull pots usually have "DPDT" switches on them (with 6 contacts) as these are the most versatile. The switch wiring is completely independent of the pot itself so just think of it as two separate things - a pot and a switch - and you should be ok. Or just post all the info here and someone will be able to help.[/quote] Just had DPDT switches explained to me by my man in the know. He's an electrical engineer by trade. He says it's a bit odd that allparts don't provide a datasheet. Are they just some kind of standard?
  2. [quote name='bremen' post='204899' date='May 23 2008, 12:29 PM']and pm re:body from me We should get a duo together :-)[/quote] Can we do this? [url="http://www.dinobone.com/ask/bones.mid"]sorry - it's friday[/url]
  3. [quote name='BOD2' post='204312' date='May 22 2008, 02:20 PM']CTS make the pots for Fender. Fender are a bulk buyer so they can specify exactly what they want and also the price point they want them at. They may even specify "exclusivity" so that CTS cannot sell identical pots to anyone else. That will explain the differences. Which are better ? Difficult to say. The Fender ones might be built to a lower price point to keep Fender costs down. Then when Fender sell them on they charge a premium because it says "Fender" on them (am I being too cynical ?). I'd be inclined to say that if CTS sell pots with their own brand name on them, then they'll be the best pots they can make for the money. Therefore I'd go with CTS rather then Fender. And if one of the pots doesn't feel right - replace it.[/quote] Was thinking the same - Fender would not doubt want the cheapest pots cts will do for em! I'm putting a villex mid range booster in as well now - so one of the pots has to be a switch - I've got a push pull one. Only thing is the villex wiring diagram is for a toggle switch. Hmmm.
  4. [quote name='steve-soar' post='204519' date='May 22 2008, 07:58 PM']Hi John, try Fender.com-support-wiring diagrams-62 Vintage Jazz and then just wire the outputs to the master vol before the jack socket. Don't look at the diagram for the Deluxe Jazz Steve.[/quote] Nice one Steve. Will do this - Beedster had a thread on here about wiring his concentric pots - he complained about the pots interfering with one another and loss of output. Anyone got ideas why concentric pots should result in effects like this? Or were they just wired wrong?
  5. I'm doing some diy upgrades this weekend. First on the list is changing the pickup and wiring in a MIM precision. So... I bought some cts pots and switchcraft socket - took the bass apart and found that it's already got american fender cts pots in it. It's "precision upgrade" model - and looking at the parts list it did indeed have US electrics (not pickups) factory fitted. I was going to change em as one of them felt odd - a bit wonky, and although works fine, one feels scratchy. They do look slightly different than the standard cts pots though - they have dip in the bottom - they have a steel shaft (the cts ones are brass) and one of them has a red bit of plastic inside the pot. Anyway - this is probably a bit anal - but does anyone know why they're so different? I wondering if I should just get some contact cleaner on em and just change the pickup.
  6. Hiya, Does anyone know any good wiring diagram resources on the net? I'm putting concentric pots on me p/j - I'm going con pot / con pot / master vol ?? John
  7. Fantastic. Confusion > enlightenment all in one morning. After speaking to Dave. It all makes sense. I am overdriven.
  8. Has anyone had experience of the fender US moulded case and a Hiscox EBS? I'm trying to make up my mind - which one did / do you prefer?
  9. [quote name='Bassman101' post='202401' date='May 19 2008, 08:30 PM']Hey, im kinda new, so you guys dont know me, but i was reading this, and i looked on ebay because i was jsut... well looking around and i came across some necks, none of them are exactly what you want, i came across a J bass neck with block inlay, and another neck, not sure if its a P, didnt read it properly lol but no block inlay, why is there no good parts when people need them?, i dont think this is what you want, but maybe something you might have??? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FENDER-LIC-2906-P-BASS-GUITAR-ROSEWOOD-NECK-MIGHTY-MITE_W0QQitemZ290230180210QQihZ019QQcategoryZ41423QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD2VQQcmdZViewItem"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FENDER-LIC-2906-P-BA...VQQcmdZViewItem[/url][/quote] Nice one - yeah - seen a few MM replacement necks - but none have had inlays. And I've read some non-too-complimentary things about the newer Mighty Mite necks. (why are they shipping canadian maple to korea for machining?) Deffo has to have inlays - Pearl on a maple board (although if anyone knows where I can get a pearl on rosewood or ebony I'd also be interested for another project)
  10. J bass necks are a little thin for me. I can get by playing em - but prefer p bass necks' width and they sound better
  11. Been looking all over the web for a while now to no avail. Found loads of j bass ones - allparts do one. Warmoth have done them in the past apparently but they're special run and won't say when / if they're ever gonna do em again. Anyone any ideas? Cheers John
  12. [quote name='The Burpster' post='198353' date='May 13 2008, 10:58 PM']Bump for Pup and tuners.[/quote] PM
  13. [quote name='Tee' post='197986' date='May 13 2008, 02:18 PM']Personally, i don't understand this, being in several bands thing. My band takes up enough time/effort/money as it is.[/quote] I agree whitcha. I find it "hard" enough to write basslines, keep improving them and keep them the way I want them for 10-15 songs. Anymore than that I'd want to practice all afternoon, every afternoon, and really aint got the time. If I didn't like the genre or the music I was playing I'd bail out quick too. I'd just feel too guilty not being able to give it the full gun, wasting my time and everyone else's. That's not to say I don't see why people play music they're not really that into though - the radio needs to be filled with dross
  14. Also watch what they have in stock - I've been waiting over a week for something which had a 2-4 day lead time. They've still not posted it. Bugger is that it's going to be posted with stuff that is in stock (new TI flats) - so it's holding that up too. They are quite cheap for TIs though. Same goes for any mail order company though I suppose. I waited 2 months for a monitor from Dabs.com once so I'm a bit jittery. Although that was great cos in the end they inadvertently sent two Good though - I've ordered loads of stuff from them before and this is the first time they've not got it to me in 48 hours from Germany.
  15. You might as well get some decent pots and a cap. The good ones are cheap enough. CTS pots - coupla quid each. You have the choice between 250k and 500k resistance. Ps usually have 500k ones I think. You can also choose between audio (logarithmic) pots and linear pots. You deffo should use the audio for the volume - but you can use either for the tone pot - personal preference. Standard Ps use audios for both vol and tone, but I think that's so they don't get mixed up on the production lines, get ordered wrong etc. You can use a variety of capacitors 0.01, .0250, .0500, 0.100 etc - the less the value the capacitor, the more treble bleed you get, so sound will be brighter. Standard Ps are .0500 I think. Orange drops are considered good. They're pence each anyway. Might be a good idea to try each or a couple - even good pots are quite variable in their resistance so the cap is a chance to level that out. And get a switchcraft jack. Standard p wiring diagram is here > [url="http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/basses/0193200_02A/SD0193200_02APg2.pdf"]wiring diag[/url] And don't use a MIM pup
  16. Would have popped along but I'll be Cork getting shitfaced.
  17. I love my pj. I've got two necks for it. One j and one p. It's like doing twins.
  18. [quote name='Leowasright' post='192961' date='May 6 2008, 03:01 PM']I'd go for Reidys as well, I think they are presently the cheapest UK retailer for this item. I recently got all the parts for a new MIM Jazz from Ebay in the US for just over £200......took a couple of months though. One piece of advice. Bin the pickups as soon as you can.[/quote] I bought an almost mint 2002 MIM precision for £170 off ebay the other day - it was listed as a precision "base" - only 2 bids
  19. [quote name='BOD2' post='188735' date='Apr 30 2008, 11:58 AM']Shouldn't cause any damage. Follow the same advice that you should use with ANY amp/cab setup and use your ears to judge if everything is ok. i.e. Start with the volume relatively low, bring up the volume slowly and listen. If you start to hear any unexpected distortion then simply back-off a little. I used a 50 Watt JCM800 guitar head and 4x12 cab for over a year at practices and gigs before getting a "proper" bass rig and then handing the amp and cab over to our guitarist. No damage whatsoever.[/quote] Yeah - I used to borrow a 100w Hiwatt guitar amp. Was fantastic.
  20. [quote name='HarryPotter' post='185875' date='Apr 26 2008, 12:31 PM']I've tried the BA200 version and it does indeed have 'that' tone. The problem is there isn't very much of it - it is not very loud at all, as in not much better than a decent practice amp. I am guessing this is the issue with the SS from Ampeg? Although the 300 (and 600) has a valve in the pre-amp, so maybe this can improve things somewhat?[/quote] I've got 2 solid state Ampegs. One 50W b50R - which is great - but is a practice amp. It's really good for acoustic stuff though. I've seen the b200r being used at gigs - and being loud. I've also used a b100r in a studio and it was great. I've also got a 150W biamped b3158 - which is a full on gigging amp. It's louder than the 150W suggests. Although I use a valve head / 2 cabs now as our drummer is so f*cking loud. The ba500s are also good loud solid state Ampegs. - I'm sure these ba300's would be fine too. I'm sure the markbass stuff is better, but isn't it more expensive?
  21. [quote name='The Funk' post='182945' date='Apr 22 2008, 04:32 PM']You can get a decent amount for them. They're quite sought after. The "bass" series sounds great for guitar.[/quote] Have heard so - although I'm yet to use mine for anything other than bass. If it's a bass series I might be interested in it - have been thinking about using 2 heads. Not that I need it really - one is really f*cking loud, but 2 would give me a bit of manoeuvre.
  22. Is it a bass or lead series? Both are excellent. The lead series (head) is far more sought after though.
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