noelk27

Give it a month ... http://basschat.co.uk/topic/161366-gl-l2500-tribute-l380-sold/page__p__1459413__hl__l2500__fromsearch__1#entry1459413 [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/156606-gl-l2500-tribute-natural-maple-sold/page__hl__l2500"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/156606-gl-l2500-tribute-natural-maple-sold/page__hl__l2500[/url] http://basschat.co.uk/topic/147308-gl-tribute-2500-fs-only-blue-maple/page__p__1316509__hl__l2500__fromsearch__1#entry1316509

[quote name='Dom in Somerset' timestamp='1326497486' post='1498216']What is that?[/quote] An update of a 20+ year old design. Looks like the 40th anniversary Jazz Bass I owned back in the early 90s, except a darker wood/stain. Saying that, two of the others are 50+ year old designs, so I guess that makes it something of an innovation in Fender design terms.

Does the "lose of volume" you're describing occur when the two mini toggle switches are in the forward positions and the pickup selector switch is set in the mid position (front and rear pickups combined), but not with other settings/combinations?

People comment on how slim the Fender Jazz neck is on the Geddy Lee model. The original got that way after his judicious use of sandpaper, as I understand.

[quote name='simwells' timestamp='1326136687' post='1492818']The Black & Gold was the US name for what was called the Elite here so it is similar to the bass Cliff used just of the two pickup variety.[/quote] No, the Black 'n' Gold (to give it its correct name) was first introduced for the Japanese market. At the time solid black was not a standard colour for Aria's premium ranges, so black was introduced to the PE and SB ranges with these special models. The first SB Black 'n' Gold was a version of the R60, named the Black 'n' Gold I, and first appeared in the Aria catalogue in '83. At the time of launch a standard R60 retailed for Y60,000, with the Black 'n' Gold version retailing for Y65,000. A factory Black 'n' Gold version featured a cast bridge with a black coating and saddles and assemblies with a gold coating, and a gold-coated truss rod cover. Otherwise, these versions were identical to the standard models. Black 'n' Gold versions should not be confused with later standard gold models, which can be identified by the standard gold-coated bridge.

There were two versions of Yamaha's BB3000, one aptly referred to as the "narrow neck". Offhand, can't recall if it was 39mm or 39.5mm at the nut, but it varied from 20.5mm depth at the 1st fret to 23mm at the 12th fret. Feels slim. Plays fast.

Go for £350 to 400 here, on BC.

[quote name='Horizontalste' timestamp='1326197701' post='1493548'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140678514021&category=4713&_trksid=p5197.c0.m619#ht_500wt_1202"]http://cgi.ebay.co.u...9#ht_500wt_1202[/url] Bow chika wow wow[/quote] With your budget, Cocco, you could pick this up and have £300 change left in your pocket, and a big, broad smile on your face. (See what I did there?) Seriously, as I said to Bobby, before he picked up his 1100S, this is the one to have, if you want the BB all-rounder. [quote name='Bobby K' timestamp='1326197880' post='1493554']Still craving a BB2000 to complete the trio, as I'm sure Noel won't be surprised to hear, eh Noel [/quote] You can have my first month of production, natural 2000, Bobby. All I require in return is your soul, your first born, and £1,200 or your British pounds. Oh, and VIP passes to see "Kate Bush".

If you like the look, pick up a 424X and upgrade with your pickups of choice. You can get a 424X for £400 new. The quality difference between its carcass and the 1024X is minimal. Like others here, and as a big BB fan, I was somewhat disappointed in the 1024X I tried. For sure I'd have gone for the non-X version, as that scratch plate makes it impossible to rest your thumb on the P pickup, as you can do on most of the earlier models. That, and the metal control plate is just ugly. Can I ask, why do you prefer a bolt-on version? For me, a BB has to be neck-through.

[quote name='FlatEric' timestamp='1326096272' post='1492070']Three times , now - there have been searches on my Blog for "Phil Lynott" Double Neck - from different locations around the world!![/quote] And it's not like you've got any interesting double-neck instruments, like Jaydee 4/8 string basses or Ibanez Artist 6/12 string guitars.

If the bass is a bolt-on design, you could ask for the neck to be removed, the truss rod slackened off a turn or so, and resultant the package will end up a more manageable size for courier handling. In the past, I've posted a hard case to a seller, so that the seller could pack the instrument I'm buying in a suitable fitted hard case in line with my "suggested" criteria. It might work out cheaper than the cost of the petrol or of a train ticket.

[quote name='pete.young' timestamp='1325955188' post='1490363'] Not sure what this is, but it looks very Japanese. The 6-bolt neck is interesting. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/bass-guitar-/200697081537?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item2eba7a6ec1"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2eba7a6ec1[/url] [/quote] Matsumoku produced a build like this, with six-bolt neck joint and Maxon pickup. Most had a sticker decal with the name of the own-brander applied to the headstock. But the design is common to a number of factories.

It happens here, on Basschat, also. Twice I've received basses from sellers which have arrived damaged. Both times I informed the sellers as soon as the basses were received. On both occasions, after discussions, the sellers agreed to pay for repair cost (in one case £240, and the other £35). On both occasions the works were undertaken by know luthiers/repairers, and all photographic evidence and invoices/receipts provided to the sellers. On both occasions, after that point, nothing was ever heard from those sellers again leaving me out of pocket. You'll meet dishonest people wherever you go, eBay or Basschat.

[quote name='norvegicusbass' timestamp='1325113795' post='1480045']semi-accoustic[/quote] By which you mean electro acoustic or chambered body? If it's an electro acoustic are you sure the strings you've bought are suitable for the bass? Strings for electric and acoustic instruments work in slightly different ways. But, just generally, if you've switched from a round wound to a flat wound string, but not changed gauge, you've increased the mass of material that needs to be brought up to tension, and as a consequence the stresses along and across the neck, so you're delivering the string to the fret contact from a greater height and a steeper angle. With a flat wound string, you're also dealing with more material at the point of contact and less air generally, so you should expect more volume when those fret contacts are made.

Don't particularly rate Amplitude. Either Softube's http://softube.se/bass_amp_room.php or Studio Devil's http://www.studiodevil.com/products/virtual_bass_amp_pro/ sound more detailed.

[quote name='EdwardHimself' timestamp='1324141548' post='1471260']it's only a bit of plastic[/quote] Sometimes. Sometimes it's a bit of wood, or a bit of bone, or a bit of carbon graphite, or a bit of metal. Simple answer is you use what's right for the song.

Or why not get the vastly superior BFD Eco instead http://www.fxpansion.com/index.php?page=103&tab=276

Assuming it isn't set up or pickup placement/adjustment/performance, as has been previously stated/suggested, then isn't what you're actually looking for an unbalanced set? If the D and G strings are quiet then what you need is more mass in those strings or less mass in the E and A strings.