noelk27

Any reason why you didn't list it in the "eBay Listings" section as opposed to the "For Sale" section?

Cheers Chatters!

Anyone had any dealings with these guys?

All depends on whether it's studio or stage.

My cello was made circa 1870. Seems it might be vintage. Then again, it might not. It's certainly antique, though. So, all things considered, I've found this thread quite an amusing read.

[quote name='iriegnome' post='1374452' date='Sep 15 2011, 01:07 PM']Matsumoku ... I am still a big fan of out of the ordinary basses.[/quote] Matsumoku being described as ordinary. There's a first time for everything.

It's all down to the sound you want to achieve. The best fretless I've owned for replicating a double bass sound was a Zeta Crossover. The fretless I currently use that gives me the sound I like (Alembic) in a carcass I like (Aria) is an SB900 fitted with AXY pickups and an A/E1 tone circuit. The SB started out fretted, but I had the original touchboard replaced with an ebony one. Circa £700 in parts and labour to make a bass I loved the feel and playability of to sound much cleaner across the whole output spectrum and more focused in the low end. With Pedulla, all the examples I've played have been fitted with Bartolini pickups, so is that the biggest part of the sound you're hearing? Would you prefer another design but with those pickups/tone circuit? Again, with Wal, from the two that I've owned, the pickups being very much biased towards the mid range with a slightly distorted top end was probably the biggest factor of the sound. From what I can see, Overwater build similarly high quality instruments, but with a less limited sound, with used examples picked up for a third of the price of a Wal. As I said, ask yourself what it is you want to achieve with your sound, as, for me, Pedulla and Wal are chalk and cheese.

Take a look at the Rode M3 as a suitable all-rounder that's within your budget. You could also look for the likes of an SE Electronics SE2 (as this had interchangeable capsules, which adds to its flexibility). Being a superseded model you can find this relatively inexpensively NOS.

Pity you can't get a Yamaha BB2025 for that (yet).

[quote name='hairyhaw' post='1368543' date='Sep 10 2011, 12:36 PM']Cheers. Yeah, I've had a look about and they seem about as thick as you get in four string sets. I presume I'm looking at five string sets and throwing away the top string then?[/quote] Oh, there are heavier sets than that available. DR have a DDT four-string set that is gauged 65, 85, 102, 125, which will get you all the way down to B. There's also a friendlier 55, 75, 95, 115 gauged set that would suit your requirements, down to C. You're right if you're thinking that the issue is mass, and how that mass generates the "output" you need to retain a "focused" sound in drop tunings. The lighter the string the lower the output, so the sets that are specifically designed for drop tunings use heavier gauges to achieve the balance of volume and definition for the output. You'll almost certainly have to adjust the setup of your instrument if transitioning from your current light gauge in standard tuning to a heavy gauge with a drop tuning, but that should be limited to a truss rod tweak to counteract bow and intonation. You'll also most likely have to widen the slots of the nut to properly seat the increased gauge at this witness point.

Well, we've exchanged comments about G&L designs before, and like you I think that designs such as the L1000, L2000 and El Toro are some of the greatest of CLF's creations. The problem for the SB2 was that the El Toro was a better execution of the "Jazz Bass" concept, and the mini humbuckers featured on the El Toro had a fuller and warmer sound than on this version of the SB2, which sounds mid-biased and thin by comparison. This version of the SB2 also continued in production under the name Lynx until '91, so with 10 years of production isn't one of the rare G&L designs. Accept, of course, that yours has the original headstock design, and neck specification; but that can also work against it, as that's the less stable version of the neck. If this were the second version of the SB2, with P/J configuration, in a desirable colour such as tobacco sunburst, you'd be looking at £750 to £800. If yours were in good condition in a more desirable colour, you'd be looking at £600 to £650. For yours, in the condition and colour you describe, I think you're looking at £550 to £600 tops, but realistically £500 to £550.

Hadn't realised that Gillian was a Thai name.