noelk27

Have an '80 L1000, an '82 L2000, '83 L2000, '85 L2000, '88 L2000 and '91 L2000, among other G&L basses. The design and profile of the neck used for the L1000/L2000 changed in '83, and again in '88, so you'll experience differences over the decade (80s). But if it's specifically an L2000E then you're talking about a bass produced in either '81 or '82 (as those were the only years when there were active and passive versions of the L2000). The feel of the '80 L1000 and '82 L2000 is much more substantial than current G&L models. It's what you might call chunky, along the lines of 70s era Fender Precisions, but less substantial than 80s era Fender Precisions. The profile is more rounded than what G&L currently offer, and also as compared to the '83 and later versions. It's more of a "C-shape" than an "Oval" (if you view G&L's current standard neck as being an "Oval"). Both the '80 L1000 and '82 L2000 are a little less rounded over on the touchboard edge than the '83 and later versions. It's in no way a Fender Jazz-like neck. In many ways it's typical of other Precison-like 70s and 80s era instruments and, in addition to 70s era Fender Precisions, in terms of feel the closest comparators I can suggest are Yamaha's BB1200 (measured against a '79 example) and Aria's SB1000 (measured against an '85 example).

Just been doing the very same thing, downsizing from an SWR Redhead and Triad. Had started to look at GK, Eden and Ampeg, but when urb's SWR Baby Baby Blue came up for sale within 24 hours of my Redhead selling, fate/BC presented the perfect solution to my needs. This post though is by way of saying have you given any thought to a combo? Ampeg BA115HPT, EBS D15, Mesa Boogie Walkabout, Nemesis 210, etc.

[quote name='Bloodaxe' post='686837' date='Dec 16 2009, 10:34 PM']Not [i]quite[/i] twins, but close... SB-1000F & SB-900[/quote] Would be interested to know what the text on the headstock of the "SB1000F" reads. I suspect it says "Specially Designed & Approved By ARIA Research & Development LAB Original Custom Body Pat. No. 555719", and the bass is an SB1000/2R, first introduced in 1990.

Er, yea. It was two Tribute basses to back up a 90s US and a 00s Japanese basses that backed up two early 80s basses: all L2000 models. At its worst there were nine in total.

Unless you sold the bass via eBay in a business or commercial capacity, the situation as it persists between private individuals entering into contracts of sale is quite distinct. The situation is no different for a direct sale, in person, or a remote sale. Private individuals are not regulated by the Sale of Goods legislation, including the much-promoted Distance Selling Regulations. With private individuals it is a case of caveat emptor, or “buyer beware”. Certainly, within the confines of eBay, this situation is altered to take into account the remote sales aspect, and to enforce a sense of “equity” in dealing between buyer and seller. But, within eBay, it is the responsibility of the buyer to validate the condition of any item bought at the time of delivery, or shortly thereafter, and only where the item does not conform to the substantive issues claimed in respect of authenticity or condition does the buyer have any rights to resile and recover. Certainly, a buyer does not have rights to resile and recover on the grounds of a missing screw or some imperfect soldering, as these are minor matters, of the nature to be anticipated with used goods. (The situation might be different if a claim was made as to the completeness of a particular vintage instrument, for which minor parts take on a more commercially significant nature.) While I have serious reservations as to whether you will be able to resist the buyer’s claim for a full refund within the confines of eBay, my suggestion would be that you have the instrument assessed by a respected luthier, a report prepared as to the damages incurred by the instrument, and that you offset either the cost of having necessary repairs carried out, or, in the case that the instrument is beyond repair, the full amount paid. From what you say, you have an admission either in an eBay message or email, made by the buyer, that they put the instrument to use in a way not in conformity with the manufacturer’s specifications, so it is crucial that you retain this communication as proof of the buyer’s usage of the item, and consequent damage to the item. But, it is essential that you retain all communications and get an inspection report prepared by a professional repairer.

Recently acquired a Boss effects unit from Gareth. A hassle-free transaction. Would certainly deal with this BassChatter again. Cheers!

Not mentioning the occasions I've picked his brain about JapCrap, recently acquired a [Manufacturer to be confirmed] guitar of [probable] Korean origin from Jon. A hassle-free trade, no doubt the result of Jon's detailed listing and responsive messaging. Nice bloke (for someone from the 'Burgh), and someone you can deal with in total confidence.

[quote name='derrenleepoole' post='681233' date='Dec 11 2009, 12:37 PM']Cheers for the replies guys... Benebass you have been PM'd [/quote] Check out Aria's TAB 66.

Have to get the mini-toggle switch on a series one TRB5P, which has sheered at the base, repaired/replaced. Hopefully this won't involve replacing the pre-amp! Current thinking is either Jimmy Egypt at CC Music or the lassies at Strung Out, as opposed to Jimmy Moon or Southside Music. Any Weegies or Central Belt-ers got any thoughts about these repairers? Cheers!

[quote name='baboom' post='674972' date='Dec 5 2009, 02:48 PM'][S]urely the fretboard on a half decent bass should be constructed so that all the frets play at the correct pitch when it is properly setup. But when some notes are sharp whilst others are flat ...[/quote] Ah, the joys of equal temperament. The plus or minus you observed is simply one of the characteristics of fretted touchboards. The only true way for you to check the intonation is to use harmonics, as harmonics are intonation stable.

Premium bonds ... Or a G&L Tribute L2000 with Premium finish ...

[quote name='LukeFRC' post='675379' date='Dec 6 2009, 01:16 AM'][D]id they make fretless or has it been defretted later?[/quote] That's a whole other can of worms, given how Aria detailed factory fretless necks/touchboards ... All I'd say is even although from the photo an initial assessment would be defret, that might not be the case with Aria! I'm sure one of the more informed BC'ers will provide the answer.

Picked one of these up on BC, and it works wonders with passive basses. £20 would be a steal.

[quote name='iamapirate' post='669212' date='Nov 29 2009, 04:32 PM']I say, make it the length you've been a member. A year or more of at least 1 post per day (average), and you can send PMs without restriction.[/quote] Which, if I read this motion correctly, even though I've been a member since the site migrated, and was a member at the previous incarnations, with a relatively limited number of posts in proportion to the time I've been a member, I'd be excluded from PM'ing without restriction. A member is a member, irrespective of length of membership of, or degree of participation in, the forum. Only those who transgress, breaking the rules regulating the community, should have limitations placed on them. Any other situation is iniquitous.

[quote name='Chris2112' post='675175' date='Dec 5 2009, 06:48 PM']Do they not do one with a bridge pickup and the crazy electronics package?[/quote] Don't know. But the Custom Shop (APCS), in Japan, do produce limited edition models, such as a headless version of the Super Bass (SB) series and a midi-equipped version of the Avante (AVB) series. APCS will also build basses to order. Already have an APCS, so I'd settle for the SB-LTD, or the SB R-150.

[quote name='LukeFRC' post='675158' date='Dec 5 2009, 06:22 PM']oh and this i swapped with rasta for a POD, unmarked headstock aria pro 2. It's japanese so Ill stick it up here, someone may be able to tell me something about it.[/quote] It's late 80s, from the RSB range. Control layout mirrors the likes of the RSB Deluxe II, but it uses a later pickup design than the MB-III used in the D-II, but similar to the pickup that first appeared with the RSB Medium II in '85. Best guess '87 RSB series.

An Aria Pro II SB-LTD - Aria craftsmanship married to Alembic electronics. I'd settle for an SB R-150 though.

Yea, you can make most basses rock, hard, if you're using the right amplification and signal processing. Mostly I play through SWR, and it can rock, but when I've wanted a big rock sound I've used Ampeg SVT gear. Same basses, totally different character at the end of the signal chain.

In need of a DR Hi-Beam 125. Anyone know which online retailers sell individual B-strings?

[quote name='Bloodaxe' post='674286' date='Dec 4 2009, 04:21 PM']I'm not a Wal owner, ... but I have played a couple [and] I can see why people love them with a passion ... , but they're not for me. I'm sticking with my old Aria SB's - they just fit me, physically & sonically ... Try a Wal, they are very, very, good & if you fall in love with it then you'll justify the expense - but try one first.[/quote] As my preference is for a bass with two pickups, early 80s I was using a Wal (unfortunately can't recall the model - two pickups, front-mounted control plate with battery compartment, five pots and selector switch - most likely a 70s models, as I picked it up used) and an Aria Pro II SB 900. Parted company with the Wal circa '85, as I could never get a sound out of it that I could live with - it was too aggressive for my tastes, and needed to be played hard to get the best out of it. These were no set up issues, as at that time my instruments were being maintained by a guy who knows his stuff - Jimmy Moon (a well-respected Scots luthier). But, circa '88, after consuming the lines on Rush's Hold Your Fire album ('87), and seeing the band on tour ('88), I again found myself seduced by the mystic of Wal, and made one of those impulse purchases, a black Pro series model, replete with gold hardware, ala Geddy. Around 18 months later the Wal was traded against a G&L El Toro and Yamaha BB5000A as, again, I found myself unable to settle on a tone that suited my style, and the projects I was involved in. In addition to the two I owned, which certainly had their own characters, I’ve had the opportunity to play a good number more, and found the quality of the product to be variable. For sure, there's something about a Wal that catches the eye, and also the ear, but if you can't dial what it offers in to suit you, your style, your sound, then it's not the bass for you, no matter how much you love the look, the image. But you'll only know that after trying one - although you probably want to try more - out. As for the price of a new Wal, I have to question the tag. Prices starting at £3,200, well, I’d be hoping that the company behind the brand were producing a more consistent product than in the past. Oh, and the SB 900, well, I still own that one (the exact one - a 1980 walnut-faced example, from before Aria diluted the circuitry, in my opinion). But then, horses for courses.

'89 Aria Pro II SB-LTD - the marriage of Aria aesthetics and Alembic electronics. Played one. Want one.

For heavy-duty grime I use a citrus bio-solvent, a couple of drops neat applied and worked over the surface with an un-dyed cloth, and almost immediately wiped off and buffed up with a clean polishing cloth. This only on lacquered finishes. For lesser grime I use D65, applied in much the same way. For rosewood or ebony touchboards I use linseed oil. For raw maple necks or touchboards I use a slightly damp cloth and elbow grease. Wood toothpicks are also very useful for getting into small, hard to clean, areas.

Not wanting to be a pedant, but shouldn't the title of this thread read "Scots Bass Players"?