Paul_C

[quote name='BigRedX' post='677341' date='Dec 7 2009, 11:15 PM']Fantastic!

Which one's the Miki Furukawa sig?[/quote]



that was the most expensive iirc, at £500ish before shipping and duties

[quote name='pete.young' post='677199' date='Dec 7 2009, 09:05 PM']Like? I seem to recall you had about 14 of them, including the lovely Miki Furokawa sig. I had a blue SBV500 for a while, they're decent sounding well-made and unusual basses and this one looks as though it will go for next to nothing.[/quote]

I had 16

[quote name='solo4652' post='677022' date='Dec 7 2009, 07:12 PM']Hi,

I'm in the market for a silent-jack neutrik instrument lead. I've spotted on on the 'net which comes with this warning:


"Please note:

The signal will not be muted with active electric bass guitars which have a tip-ring-sleeve tap to activate the power supply."


Errrr, what? I have a Stingray and a G&L Tribute, both of which are active. I'm not sure whether this lead will work with these basses. Can anybody enlighten me, please?

Steve[/quote]

it's telling you that the silent bit won't work with an active bass, and you have two active basses - what's not to to understand ?

there is a switchable Planet Waves jack that works - [url="http://www.soundslive.co.uk/product.asp?id=3892"]http://www.soundslive.co.uk/product.asp?id=3892[/url]

♩♫ ♭♮♯

I'd be surprised if it was particularly rare though, yellow was one of the three colours sold in the UK

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='676258' date='Dec 6 2009, 10:45 PM'][url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-SBV500-SBV-500-Samurai-Bass-Reissue-Rare_W0QQitemZ160385140213QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item2557b305f5"]Not sure if I like it or not.[/url][/quote]

I like them . . .

[quote name='Major-Minor' post='675715' date='Dec 6 2009, 02:22 PM']That's brilliant ! Thanks so much for that SteveO. ♮𝄞♭𝄐𝄫𝄡𝄇♯ɰɣβ I had no idea these things were so readily available on my Mac.

The Major☟☛➲➤⬆⇪⇲↷↷♬♪௹[/quote]

bear in mind that not all of those show up on a PC

[url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilia"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tilia[/url]

Allparts stock them.

[quote name='orangepeelneil' post='674398' date='Dec 4 2009, 06:02 PM'][size=3]Hello everyone,

Got some old bass tuners/machine heads that may be of use to someone:-

-Three unused big clover leaf tuners with ferrules (no screws)

- Two Japanese bass tuners with four odd covers (no screws or ferrules)


Free to anyone , Couple of pounds via PayPal to cover postage.

Cheers Neil [/size][/quote]

I'll take them if no-one else is desperate to have them

[quote name='leftybassman392' post='673452' date='Dec 3 2009, 05:38 PM']... and if you flatten the 2nd, 3rd, 6th AND 7th you get a Phrygian scale. [/quote]

a fair point, however if you also flatten the 5th you've got the Locrian

the scale (or mode) with a flat 3rd and 7th and no flat 6th is the Dorian scale

the Natural minor scale (Aeolian scale or mode) is the one with a flattened 3rd 6th and 7th,

as opposed to the Harmonic minor which has flat 3rd and 6th but a major 7th,

and the Melodic minor which has a flat 3rd only on the way up and flat 6th and 7th (as well as the flat 3rd) on the way down

so I assume the body has been modded too ?

[quote name='steve-soar' post='672364' date='Dec 2 2009, 06:29 PM'][url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=68869"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=68869[/url][/quote]

not necessarily, a set of 45-105s tuned std. is (according to D'Addario's tension guide) comes to a grand total of 212.1 whereas 65-135 tuned BEAD comes to 176.1 so the tension is actually less in their case, though that might not be true if you use a different set of strings

[quote name='mrcrow' post='672175' date='Dec 2 2009, 03:32 PM']i have a shuker bass and jon told me its a two way rod..whatever that means...and looking at my bass...the freboard is maple on a maple neck verrrrrrrrrrrrryyy tight joint between the two..in fact it looks like a solid neck...but no skunk stripe

its a pit a neck needs to be so bound up since a truss rod can be a problem virtually from day 1...

i used to think the rod was just screwed into a nut at the other end from the end you adjust it...a simple bolt..or so to speak
but i found to my chagrin after b***ering up a rick that the rods are flat and cant be rotated...at least not on the rick
i found my freboard beginning to part company with the neck wood....and didnt know how to cure it
eventually i did get the rod..s..to rotate back to where they should have been and sold it on to someone more able to do a full correction...at a vast loss in ££[/quote]

a two way rod means you can adjust the neck in both directions, and it doesn't rely on compression of the wood to do so as in the case of a single rod in, for example, a Fender neck - Rickenbacker's rod is somewhere between the two and, like a two way rod, there is perhaps more risk of popping the fingerboard off

a two way rod sits in a flat channel routed in the neck, while a Fender style rod sits in a curved channel which needs a skunk stripe to give access to fit it.

one of the unusual things about Rickenbacker rods is that they can be pulled out of the neck and replaced, without needing any surgery to do so

I have to say I'm surprised by this sad tale - I've been repairing/setting up/etc. guitars and basses for six years and have never managed to break a truss rod yet, and I don't approach adjustment with as much hesitation as you have done - if tightening I make an adjustment and check it, adjusting again if necessary until it's done.

If I'm going to tighten then I'll slacken a little first just to get things moving, but if it takes half a turn then that's what it gets.

Obviously if it starts to feel tight then I'd take a bit more care, and consider my options (has it run out of adjustment, do I need to slacken the strings, maybe get the neck off and get a better look, etc.), but that's only happened a couple of times in what must be hundreds of truss rod tweaks.

I have heard of it happening though - a local shop broke one recently, so I'm not blaming you

time I had a new sig

oops!

having taken some before and after snaps, I promptly deleted them

so all I have for you are these :





sounds great though !

I've just taken the frets and nut out of my Yamaha SBV500 to convert it to fretless, I'll take a few snaps and show how it went.

[quote name='jude_b' post='660575' date='Nov 20 2009, 09:53 PM']"The root is King,The 5th is Queen, and the 3rd is the Jack"



I like that too - sounds like Bob Dylan.

I've never really got my head around modes, despite covering them in theory, they always seemed a bit unnecessary given a knowledge of major, minor and blues scales.

I've just misspent some money on a bass magazine on a journey home from London and the theory part in the back on modes makes general relativity look like a breeze - really horrible. The names are enough to put you off alone.

From memory, did modes predate the development of major/minor scales - I seem to remember them being used in Medieval plainsong or something? Can we consign them to history?

They always seem to be used in guitar magazines and (I think) tend to confuse the issue. I can't remember Ray Brown directly using modes in his book on bass method.

I'm self taught on bass, so maybe this is a gap in my knowledge - can anyone who's been trained with modes explain whether/how they are helpful?

(Sorry for going a little off topic)[/quote]

If you know the major and natural minor scales, then you know two modes already - the Ionian (major) and the Aeolian (natural minor).

If, for example, you take the major scale and flatten the 7th a semitone, you have the mixolydian scale, or mode - so that's three down already !

if your bass is played in drop C all the time, then fitting a heavier bottom string would tighten things up - you'd need to cut the nut to suit the thicker string.