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Paul_C

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Posts posted by Paul_C

  1. . . the other thing that occurs to me comes from Bilbo's mention of a football team being able to carry a player who's not quite up to scratch - if they are to succeed as a team they will all have to alter their game slightly to allow for this, so the team performance will not be at its most efficient.

    If it's a pub team that are not of a great standard and no-one expects them to be, then no-one really cares, and the crowd, who paid nothing to watch the performance, will not feel that their enjoyment of the game been spoiled - they might even enjoy the antics of the weakest link.

    If it's a team of pros who are entertaining a large audience who paid a substantial amount to get in (and for their replica kits etc.) then the standard has to be higher and they can't afford to carry anyone. The team works at its best when each player does his individual best and no-one has to worry about what the other players are doing and can concentrate on his own part.

    If this works perfectly, each player can relax and everything will flow ever smoother giving the audience the maximum enjoyment for their money, and the players the thrill of being part of a great performance.

    So there's room for everyone, and it's up to every individual to decide which level you prefer to play at, and as an audience, which you would prefer to see.

  2. I feel that there is room for all musicians to find their level, whether that is defined by their enthusiasm, their application or their audience.

    As I mentioned earlier, there are all sorts to be found on the acoustic open mic. circuit, and in that situation I'm all for everyone having their chance, because it's a good place to get into performing, and to be able to listen to other players performances which my be beneficial.

    If a band is expecting to get paid then you would hope they have some degree of skill, again depending on the type of music and the expectations of their audience. You also expect them to have put in some work in rehearsal where necessary to get things up to speed rather than learn as they go.

    If a band is getting towards semi or fully professional then you would expect a (slightly?) higher standard to go with prices charged and again, audience expectation - jazz (as this was the beginning of this thread) these days is (unless I'm mistaken) much more listened to than danced to, and I would imagine therefore the expectation is much higher in those situations - if the band are just background music for a function then they can probably "get away" with less if they don't feel the need within themselves or don't even recognise there's anything lacking in their performance.

    I play for the joy of what I'm contributing to the whole and am far more critical of my own performance than anyone else, mostly because I'm the only one who is paying that much attention to it :) Regardless of band member's or audience's comments I continue to hone my technique and question my note choices because I enjoy doing so, even though I could choose to cruise at the point I am and it would be "good enough".

    As is proved time and time again on this and every other forum, there are differences of opinion on every subject under the sun and this thread was never going to be an exception, but I would tend to agree with Bilbo that playing in a band that causes you pain is something you either discuss with the other band members and do something about or leave, and with a genre of music as divisive as jazz, bad musicians are probably not going to help with it reaching a wider audience :rolleyes:

  3. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='920039' date='Aug 9 2010, 08:46 PM']Just scavenged a bad of strings from Shockwave. Anyone know the ball end colour code, will make life much easier sorting sets. Any other manufacturers do colour coding?[/quote]

    it won't necessarily help as they are coded by set, not size - so all "E" strings will be one colour, all "A"s another, irrespective of thickness

    if they are all 45-105 sets though, you'll be fine :)

  4. [quote name='Paul_C' post='919539' date='Aug 9 2010, 12:57 PM']Reggae Bass - Ed Friedland - £5.00

    Building Walking Bass Lines - Ed Friedland £5.00

    Bass Bible - Paul Westwood - £10.00

    CDs included (though I'm still hunting for the walking bass lines one)

    P.[/quote]

    found the CD (and one for 100 Tips for Bass Guitar - but I don't know where the book is for that ! )

    also Crash Course: Bass - Stuart Clayton £5.00 (book and CD :) )

  5. [quote name='molan' post='919617' date='Aug 9 2010, 01:48 PM']Nice thread Bilbo - really got me thinking :)

    *snip*

    Of course I am in the advantageous position of only ever playing for enjoyment and not money so maybe I'm not really qualified to be part of this discussion! I totally understand how different someone's mindset would be if they were genuinely earning a living (or loving) from music. . .[/quote]

    I get paid now and again, but play for the sheer enjoyment of playing music - I'm not sure I'd bother if it wasn't fun, so playing as part of whole that's worth hearing is essential for me.

    That doesn't mean that we're all technically brilliant, but the band as a whole are always making the effort to be musical, and I spend a fair bit of my spare time working on my playing to make sure that I'm making a reasonable contribution to it, and not just settling for a "that'll do" attitude (even though it probably would) :rolleyes:

  6. I'm looking for some gloves at the moment for the opposite reason :)

    I find it very difficult to play at my best when my hands are cold, and an outdoor gig on Sat was hard work until I got a little warmed up.

    I set my rig up to work at its best when the strings have lost their initial brightness (I use stainless Rotosounds), and find some of the more busy stuff far easier once I've got a bit of a sweat on - not always easy when playing out doors.

    So I'm trying various fingerless gloves to see if they will help enough to be worth keeping in the box of leads and stuff I drag to every gig.

  7. [quote name='7string' post='917495' date='Aug 6 2010, 10:12 PM']I've been asked to sort a bass which has a big problem. It needs a replacement neck.

    I saw the bass advertised locally as a Squire P Bass with a slight neck break. Even though it was £20(!) I just went to the next ad. A couple of days later, I got a call from a guy who's guitar I'd setup in the past asking me if I could look at this bass which he'd just bought for £20. He's a guitarist and wants a decent sounding bass to record song ideas with.

    He brought it over this afternoon and the neck is absolute toast. The crack is big and it's far deeper than it looks, so time for a replacement. This is where I need some help.

    Can anyone give any suggestions of any where to get a cheap (but good!) replacement neck for this Squier P bass. I have to admit that I don't have I don't have any experience with sourcing replacement necks at all. I've come across Mighty Mite necks as I set up [b]Metalmoore[b]'s project and the neck was fine even if it did a little persuasion to go straight.

    Any help greatly appreciated. Also been asked to find a tortie plate as well.



    By the way, I set up guitars and basses in the Glasgow area as a hobby really. There's more info if you click on the link in my sig. Any parts I source are charged at cost anyway, so please don't think I'm trying to find a cheap replacement neck and then I'll go and charge the poor guy a mint!


    Again, any help much appreciated :)[/quote]

    got any pics of the crack ?

    I haven't seen an unfixable one yet (though I'm sure they're out there)

  8. The Fender Bass - Klaus Blasquiz - £5.00

    The Fender Bass (an Illustrated History) - £5.00

    American Basses - Jim Roberts - £10.00

    How The Fender Bass Changed The World - Jim Roberts - £10.00

    The Bass Book - Tony Bacon - £5.00

    (all plus p+p)

    these are all potentially sold - awaiting confirmation/payment

  9. [quote name='Daniel Acheson' post='909674' date='Jul 29 2010, 09:41 PM']Bass is basically a write off. [attachment=55297:P1010574.JPG]

    [attachment=55296:P1010570.JPG]


    As can be seen, the break is at a really awkward location. There is really nothing there to support gluing it back on, because of the grain of the wood etc - it won't hold to playing tension. My only options are to either have a new neckpiece carved, or start hunting for a new bass.....

    Luckily, I got most of the money I spent on it back on insurance.....just such a damned shame I'm going to have to try to find something of similar quality for the same price....really enjoyed playing it....

    Let me know if you see any good deals on well priced decently made basses, haha.


    Dan[/quote]

    why would you think it's not repairable ?

    those sort of breaks (when it comes to headstock repair) are much easier than any other as the break follows the grain - if it was end on then there's much less chance of success (and needs a lot of work for it to stand a chance)

    if someone brought a break to me like yours I'd be pretty confident that a good wood glue and a few clamps would do the job with no problem at all, and the join should be stronger than the wood (so if it suffered a similar accident then the wood would break, not the glue joint)

  10. [quote name='JTUK' post='908558' date='Jul 28 2010, 07:18 PM']My 9v version goes through batteries very quickly, ie a round 2 weeks[/quote]

    I'm puzzled by this, as mine (both 9v) certainly don't eat batteries. I've only ever changed them because I thought it was about time, never because they were dead.

  11. [quote name='Annoying Twit' post='908412' date='Jul 28 2010, 04:49 PM']I see no stripe here.

    [/quote]

    from the Ric forum : "The Shedua strip (skunk stripe) was added to the 4001 to strengthen the neck. It came into being around 1972/1973, and ended when the 4001 ceased production."

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