Pete1967

Bestbassgear.com sell a 50k lin stack.... [url="http://www.bestbassgear.com/pots.htm#"]http://www.bestbassgear.com/pots.htm# [/url]

Just go for it and have fun.... utterly disposable at that price and you just might end up with a peach. A rear rout for the battery box will be a lot more convenient for battery changes. Buy a cheapy battery box from the internet. You might need a long drill bit to connect the cavities.

After a little more research, this is the authoritative solution..... Thanks for all your help chaps - you definitely put me right.

[attachment=190233:Drawing2.jpg]

LukeFRC and Brensabre79... thanks again for your help guys. I really appreciate it. I've redrawn the cct based on your insights. Please could you do me a favour and check it for me....

[attachment=190107:Drawing2.jpg]

Thanks so much for the replies guys... I get it totally now. 250k on the input to the pre. Switch it so in passive the signal is routed straight to the jack and in active in to the pre.

Hey Luke - thanks so much for a superquick reply and from a 'local' too I see.

I'm just not getting it despite your uber helpful reply - I wish I was quicker with this stuff. As I read the diagram with the switch thrown to passive (top terminals closed in the diag) the signal is passed straight from the blend across the vol and to the jack, but in 'active' (bottom terminals closed) the signal passes from the blend through the pre so it's the preamp output that is passed across the vol. Wouldn't a 250k pot kill the preamp output in this scenario?

Sorry for being dim...

Hey All,

I'm planning to install a Seymour Duncan STC3P which has prewired pots, and I'd like to include a passive bypass switch for those 'oh sh*t my battery's dying' moments. The pickups are passive DiMarzios. I have the mod diagram from SD and it recommends that 100k - 250k pots should be used. The only two pots implicated in the mod are the blend and Vol pots - passive tone not required because it's only a disaster recovery design! The blend is already 250k, but the vol, because it's designed to work with the output from the pre, is 10k.

So my question is - what's the best compromise here? Do I replace the vol pot with a 250k which would presumably attenuate the pre, or stick with the original 10k which would presumably influence the passive performance, or do I try and find a 100k pot and split the difference??

Diagram below if it helps.

[attachment=190048:Drawing1.jpg]

TIA for any help.

Yes, it's just a single pickup in the 'sweet spot'. It's was all easy to fit. You need to read the destructions carefully and dry run it out of the instrument, but no soldering or faffing around....

One of my builds has an MM5TW in it with an EMG BQC Control EQ (you use the master vol that comes with the PU) and it sounds epic with nickel D'Addarios on it. By far my fav recording bass. Would highly recommend.

Agree with JPJ re the grades, and I'd recommend Sia or Klingspor.

Another vote for Audio Technica ATH-M50.... a very flat response and hugely underrated IMVHO

Schaller BMF's available from Stentor (Touchstone Tonewoods)
[url="http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/products/bass-115/schaller-bmf-bass-guitar-machine-head-851.aspx"]http://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/products/bass-115/schaller-bmf-bass-guitar-machine-head-851.aspx[/url]

IF you're looking at a router as an 'investment' then I'd recommend the DeWalt D26204k. Pricey but well worth it. Trend CraftPro router bits are the best value for money.

Have a chat with Brian Watson at www.watsonbasses.co.uk. I think he's the seller that is referenced above. I have his 20" block and use it for 5ers quite successfully.

Jon Shuker is in Derbyshire, if that's still the Midlands......

I'd go with the lighter fluid or maybe better soak in penetrating fluid. If its still stubborn you might be able to tease it out with a no 1 screw extractor - but I've never tried!

I've only ever used the low viscosity glue so I can't comment. Black CA is black because it has black rubber in it so sometimes it doesn't dry rock hard. I've had success by flowing some black off the end of a scalpel blade in to the bottom of the ding and then building the rest up with normal clear stuff. Do thin layers and build the black up until the wood is covered.. The first coats will sink in. Patience is your friend...

You could colour it with a bit of black marker pen and then drop fill it with CA, or buy a small bottle of black CA which is available from some luthier supplies. Be careful with strip sanding. You can easily sand a hole. I'd stick with a small block.

Remember the golden BC rule.... "Pics or it never happened"!

Bought some Ultrajazz pickups off Kim, and echo everything above. Totally seamless and flawless transaction, and excellent communication. Really quick delivery too.

Cheers Kim...

Pete

Thanks Koadiakblair... appreciate the comments and any potential recommendation

ODB - it sure is pink, actually not quite as startling as the pics make out, but defo not 'Shell' pink!

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1409582708' post='2541126']
Someone in one of these threads had a seven string Shuker, but I can't find them now. I'd like to know what that sounds like - should be even better.
[/quote]
Methinks you're referring to [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/3746-jon-shuker-signature-7-string-bass/page__p__40391__hl__doodle__fromsearch__1#entry40391"]Dood's Doodle[/url]....

Hi All,

I'm selling my Bitsa PBass. The original thinking was to create a budget bass for a friends daughter to learn on, but that fell through so I've decided to sell on. The body is solid wood and almost certainly Paulownia, but I can't be sure. It is quite light though. The neck is JAZZ dimensions and Korean made from Canadian maple with a rosewood board and pearl block inlays. The hardware is generic, but I intentionally steered away from the cheapest end of the market, so the bridge is a decent weight high mass style and the tuners are tight and accurate. Pickups are Wilkinson WPB Alnico V so far from the worst on the market. The pots are Alpha and I can put either 250k or 500k in if you wish. The pearl pickguard is custom made because I discovered that a standard one doesn't fit! Currently strung with nickel EB Super Slinkies

String height is 2mm at the 12th and the frets have had a full level, recrown and polish. There's the requisite business card amount of relief in the neck and not a buzz to be heard, and the action will go lower if desired. It's really easy to play and would suit a beginner/learner or even great as a cheap doodling bass for an experienced player that prefers a slimmer neck.

Considering it's a bass put together from Far Eastern components it really aint bad, but of course a boutique P made from rare woods it is not, however if you buy it I'll offer a full refund (including the outbound shipping) if you're not happy with it as long as it's returned to me.

It owes me about £180 all in (the neck was £70 and the PUP £24) but it is what it is, so asking £120. No case but price includes shipping to the UK mainland (bar perhaps the extremities of Scotland).

[url="http://www.bassguitarmagazine.com/news/jj-burnel-signature-shuker-on-the-way/"]http://www.bassguitarmagazine.com/news/jj-burnel-signature-shuker-on-the-way/[/url]

It has broken cover.

The neck is hand carved wood (and not top secret - he just hasn't told anyone ) and skinned with CF, so Jon's technique should allow for variation if he so desired - and it is 100% hand made in his workshop. It sounds epic IMHO, and I'm not really a P man.

yeah - it's a few weeks work so if you need it to record with, defo hold off.

Yes you could use the pinstripe veneer as a barrier. The Ash body will take the stain differently and the contrast would look great. I'd strip the whole body (or at least enough so the masking tape will stick and a light strip on the rest) and mask off when staining. Use the blue making tape and burnish the edges well, or PVC insulating tape works well too because you can stretch it around curves. The extra work will make a much better finish in the end.

I'm a fan of the Liberon range and they do a good wax remover, but the Colron stuff you can buy from B&Q is probably the same in a different tin.

Good luck - and buy some thermals if you're doing it in the garage over the winter

P