Pete1967

Also subscribed... very very interesting! [quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1377608892' post='2189323'] Oh and when glueing a top on, you can never have too much glue :-) [/quote] or too many clamps it seems!

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1377607893' post='2189309'] BTW does anyone actually know if the Schaller parts are made in Germany still or just designed there and the production out-sourced to somewhere cheaper? [/quote] Stentor told me that Schaller only manufacture in house, in Germany, a statement supported by their website [url="http://schaller-electronic.com/hp801/Produktion.htm"]http://schaller-electronic.com/hp801/Produktion.htm[/url], but it doesn't say so explicitly.

I notice the seller's name is raygunrelics.... more like ryobirelics....

Chromes come instantly to mind because they're pretty pingy for flats, but if you want a little more zing, you could try D'Addario half rounds. I have them on my fretless and the feel is great, smooth but with not quite as much friction as flats so I find them a bit quicker to play. Sound wise, plenty of mellowness but with a brigher more cutting edge I've yet to find in any flat wound string, which suits me.... Available in a fairly decent range of gauges and under £30 for a 4 string set

I had exactly the same thought process a while ago and came up blank. As already mentioned Schaller is the obvious choice (have a look at the BM Light tuners - they're brilliant) if you're considering European, or ABM do great bridges (but not tuners sadly).

[quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1376647187' post='2177228'] [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/miniature-single-gang-potentiometers-2203"]http://www.maplin.co...ntiometers-2203[/url] JM71N is the 10K Linear [/quote] Yeah... been there, thanks. That one only has a 6.5mm thread unfortunately which won't go through the top! I've found this [url="http://uk.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PDB181-GTR01-103B0virtualkey65210000virtualkey652-PDB181GTR01103B0"]http://uk.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=PDB181-GTR01-103B0virtualkey65210000virtualkey652-PDB181GTR01103B0[/url], which is perfect, but a 12 quid delivery charge makes it a very expensive pot! Paul - thanks for the steer on Doctortweek. Have mailed Steve. P

[quote name='neepheid' timestamp='1376643799' post='2177176'] Gah, that's annoying. Axesrus have the physical size of pot you require, but don't do a 10K lin, 25K is the lowest they go. You could ask them where they get theirs, or if they could obtain a 10K one? [/quote] Physically, that's it... good shout on the Axesrus. I'll drop them a line and see if they can source or help. Cheers! P

[quote name='hubrad' timestamp='1376608680' post='2176930'] Tried Maplin/Farnell/RS type places? Sounds easy enough. [/quote] Thanks chief... yes I've drawn a blank on all the obvious places.. Maplin/Farnell&CPC/RS/All Parts/WD/Best Bass Gear/EBay, and I've Googled till my fingers bleed! I did find some in Japan but I have to buy 1000!

Hi All, I've just finished my latest build which has turned out really nicely. It's a 5 string fret less with a piezo bridge and a Bart magnetic pickup hooked up to a buffer/pre/eq circuit I picked up in the US. The CCT was pre wired and designed for two magnetic pickups so used a dual concentric pot to control the volumes of the pickups, independently of the piezo. So for the moment I've used one gang of the concentric pot but I'd really like to replace it. Simples I thought... How wrong was I. It's a 10k linear taper pot, nothing unusual in that, but I need a mini pot (16mm) with a threaded shaft of 8-10mm to pass through the top, and a standard 6mm knob shaft, either solid or split. Can I find one, can I hell... Can anyone help me with a source of such a beast, or have one I can buy? Thanks all. P

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1376167510' post='2170532'] I'd think you don't want to put any sort of structural faith in it, since its horribly inconsistent. Tops are safer. [/quote] Agreed. Buckeye burl is actually taken from the rootstock of the tree (in fact it's a large shrub I think) so the mechanical properties are extremely variable and because there isn't any grain as such and its mostly below ground and therefore spalted which makes it pretty the acoustic properties are poor, so its best used for tops or facings.

[quote name='Greggo' timestamp='1375999508' post='2168558'] Ooh yes please if you didn't mind? [/quote] Not an issue mate.... Have replied to your PM.

I'm a bit late to the party on this but I've got a spare one you can have if you haven't already ordered one....

No disrespect intended whatsoever, but if you're getting fret buzz from the 1st - 5th fret then the action can't be perfect. It sounds to me like you might have a slight back bow in the neck (may have been over adjusted at some point in the past) and the action at the bridge has been raised to compensate (hence the high pickup). If you're new to setting up my advice is the same - take it to a local luthier or shop and pay them to do it for you. Should be 30 or 40 quid and worth every penny IMO. Have a look in the Recommended Luthiers thread... there has to be one in Liverpool. P

Just realised that I've never left any feedback for Ed after he bought some hard drives off me. Truly a totally sound guy and a completely trustworthy member of the BC community. Cheers Ed, and apologies for being a dunce and forgetting to do this. Pete

I too have just purchased some lovely tuners off Pete. A thoroughly pleasant experience all round with some really friendly messaging... obviously a top bloke. Pete - I owe you a pint. Pete

Ditto... I have this and it's fitted evey bass that's come my way.... [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/25-piece-hex-key-set-3783"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/25-piece-hex-key-set-3783[/url]

Rotosound swing bass should be your weapons of choice then.... Try the RS66LD set.

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1365146999' post='2035843'] It depends on your learning style IMO, when I start learning something I make it as difficult as possible but practice rigorously so I started on heavy gauge strings with a high action. What type of music are you hoping to play? [/quote] Agreed... for me it's about whether you're applying a technique approach to learning or a style based approach. If you're happy ploughing through the foundational stuff for months and not bothered about the tone/sound then your choice may well be different than if you're trying to sound like your favourite player. Personally I like to make things as easy as possible for learners because I've seen so many find it hard, and make a nasty noise when they're setting out - and then give up The thing is different strings do different jobs and the type of music will ultimately determine the type of string you use. Every player in the world has a drawer full of strings that they've tried before settling on the one they prefer, so if you can afford it why not buy a couple of sets and try them both and see what you prefer - I'd suggest getting a medium gauge set of roundwounds and flatwounds then you'll see the difference and can choose. Try something like Rotosound as a mid market product. There are better and worse.

If you;re going to respray, two pack polyester car body filler should do the trick. There's also a very high build poylester primer/filler called Reface made by Upol which I've used with great results - if the dings are quite shallow. It's designed as a spray filler, but I brush it on and you can build up a nuber of coats if necessary. Reface will go over most surfaces and is definitely fine straight on to bare wood, but wise to check compatibility with the existing finish if you're not going to strip it first. If you go this route, heed H&S instructions! You could flow some superglue (CA) in to the neck crack - carefully and don't overfill it so it runs out. It'll give some extra support to the wood.

Ditto what RR says about the thickness of the veneer. Nowadays veneer is typically .6mm. If that's what you need then this might do the trick [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wood-Veneer-Samples-/370576274467?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&var=&hash=item5648113423"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wood-Veneer-Samples-/370576274467?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&var=&hash=item5648113423[/url] but if you need the 3mm maple then you probably will need to have that specially thicknessed.

The best way is to clean the rout up with a router. If it's just from the bottom of the cavity that's best done with a 1/2in top bearing guided profiler bit and a plunge router. Ditto if you want to enlarge the cavities on the sides but you'll also need a 1/4in straight bit for the corners and the right sized routing template - which you fit over the top of the cavity and run the bearing round the template to start with and work down. If you've never done this before I'd really recommend taking it to someone who has...... it's not as big a job as it sounds and shouldn't cost much. Alternatively you might be able to win enough clearance by sanding. Stick some 100 grit to the end and sides of a length of 12mm dowel with double sided tape to create a sanding wand... rip it off when it clogs and stick a fresh piece on.

Stewmac is comprehensive, but... eech... so expensive. Import duty (over $130) and VAT to boot. I worked out what i needed then bought almost all of it off ebay, one tool at a time to spread the cost (and limit the duty fees), but also have a look at: [url="http://www.philadelphialuthiertools.com/luthier-tools/"]http://www.philadelp.../luthier-tools/[/url] [url="http://www.tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/"]http://www.tonetechl...supplies.co.uk/[/url] [url="http://www.lmii.com/"]http://www.lmii.com/[/url] Forgot to add LMII

You're welcome.. Good call! You'll have fun.

Stuart bought a bass off me (you'll have to grow a Mullet now Stuart!), paid immediately and was very patient when delivery took a few days longer than planned (my issue!). A pleasure to deal with. Top bloke!