Pete1967

Jon writes that the JJ Precision was designed as a robust instrument because JJ is a really strong player. It has carbon fibre reinforcement in the neck so tuning up is unlikely to damage the neck, but it will affect the action and it's nailed on you'll need to adjust the truss rod. 110 is pretty heavy even at standard tuning and you're going to be adding a significant amount of extra tension. If you have any doubt you could mail Jon via his website ([url="http://www.shukerguitars.co.uk/contact.html"]http://www.shukergui...uk/contact.html[/url]) and ask for advice - he's very approachable.

Edit - on reading the full thread properly I realise I just said exactly what Brensabre79 said days ago...

Damn - if only they were black...

I asked this same question a while back and got the same answer . After 25 years and countless hundreds of pounds spent of buggering around with strings, I've settled on D'Addario XL Nickels. They're definitely 'stiffer' than other brands and give me the combination of punch and twang I'd been looking for, even when drop tuned (up to a tone), and to my ear are better balanced across the set than even the hideously expensive 'boutique' brands....

[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1360601885' post='1973139']




Yes, why didn't I think of that.

Where do you suggest getting the nitro spray? I think there is somewhere that sounds more like a maker of handbags but I forget the name now.
[/quote]


Rothko and Frost??

http://shop.rothkoandfrost.co.uk/nitrocellulose-lacquer-s/132.htm

[quote name='lettsguitars' timestamp='1359991805' post='1963095']
Yea a stiff bristle brush and oil will do the trick. You can remove any build up of crap on the surface with an old fashioned razor blade (chemists). I would recommend finishing with danish oil rather than natural oils. This will add a touch of protection too.
[/quote]
+1 I've done two in the last month - one being a mate's Martin D15, which was clenched buttocks time - and used exactly this technique (except I used a Stanley blade) with great results.... Scrape, brush, polish. Obviously, work with the grain.

Funky chops... great playing Cleo. It's good to see that slap bass is finding a wider talent base than middle aged men from the 80's

Can't really see the pic on my iPhone but try Allparts part number GS-3397-003...

Yeah - normally I would, but these are so long that I'd have had to cut all of the silk and taper off which means winding the full thickness of the string round the tuning post, and I couldn't have locked the ends in the centre hole which I'm a bit anal about... I just wasn't feeling the love...

I want to frame this post in some context 'cos I'm slightly embarassed about what I am about to (try to) sell....

A mate asked me to set up his son's bass and put a new set of strings on. The lad is just starting out so the instruction was a cheap but playable set of strings. In a moment of compromised integrity (possibly Jack Daniel's fuelled) I said OK and pressed the order now button on a set of Stagg BA4505 strings. To be fair they're OK if a little unrefined, however they are loooooooong, way too long for the Harley Benton [s]bat[/s] bass I was asked to set up, so I did what I should have done in the first place and got a set of Roto's. So here we have it, a new and unused set of Stagg BA4505 round wound Nickel plated bass stings, perfect for a really long bass......

£6 posted in the UK.

P

Now sold, to a very nice man

Thanks NGH - she is lovely and I will miss her, but onwards to a walnut, sycamore and ebony fretless

And now ON HOLD!

Thanks for the PMs and posts so far folks - keep em coming

Nothing's ever cast in stone in this life so I'd be quite prepared to listen to sensible offers, but the cash is spoken for so no trades please.

Also, if anyone fancies a trip to Leeds for a try out I may well be persuaded to help out with the travel costs if you buy it... along with tea, coffee, buiscuits, cake and maybe even a spot of lunch in the pub next door!

P

a day 2 bump....

I've been asked what the string spacing is... so here it is for all to see. 17.5mm at the bridge.

P

In a moment of severe GAS I've committed to another build with Jon (that's two in progress now) so to keep my ears intact I've agreed to let one of my current stable go. To be fair I don't play out much these days so my current penchat for new custom builds really is a luxury... So my first Shuker is up for sale. I've chosen to let this one go because I bought if from Jon's stock so I have the least emotional attachment, but it will be a wrench never the less. Specs are:

34" Scale
5 String
Black Walnut body
Cooked burr maple drop top with black pinstripe
5 piece maple and wenge laminated bolt on neck with carbon fibre reinforcement
Rosewood fret board - 16" radius
Brass nut
White side dot markers
Medium frets - nickel
Gotoh tuners
Individual ABM bridges
EMG 40J pickup at neck, EMG 40TW pickup at bridge
Shuker Mk2 3 band EQ
Black hardware

I bought it off Jon in 2009 from his stock. I've used it in the studio from time to time and gigged it once (I did say I didn't play out much!) so it's in near mint condition and is actually at Jon's at the moment having a once over so it'll be A1 when the new owner gets it. Because I don't have it immediately to hand I've had to list some 'library' photos of it but as soon as I can I'll get some proper shots done and add them. I'll dig up some sound files too.

A new one is likely to set you back at least £1700 I think, so for an extremly low mileage example with full makers service history, £1000 and it's yours. It includes a Hiscox Liteflite and shipping or collection in the UK. I'm happy to meet up or deliver within an hour or so of Leeds.

Any questions just ask.

Cheers

P

[quote name='Mylkinut' timestamp='1357490537' post='1923389']
Actually, what would be best to sand the paint flat so I can spray a clear coat over it?
[/quote]
Wet sand with 1500 then 2000 grit wet and dry, or start with 1000 grit if the runs are really bad.... Tip: add a drop (literally) of washing up liquid to the water. Helps to lubricate the water!

No direct experience, but if it's a clean, clampable break then I'd be tempted to give it a shot with the polyurethane Gorilla Glue [url="http://uk.gorillaglue.com/eng/glues/glue-list/1/8/gorilla-glue.html"]http://uk.gorillaglue.com/eng/glues/glue-list/1/8/gorilla-glue.html[/url]

I'm not a fan of single cuts usually - but that is lovely...

Sounds like a winning deal from Jon....

To misquote Blackadder... do you want a truthful answer or a diplomatic answer? Ok here's both...

Truthful = No!

Dimplomatic = If it needs replacing then it's really worth trying to find the correct spare to keep the bass sounding as it should because a cheap replacement is very likely to have different tonal and electrical charateristcs which will affect the tone and balance between the pickups a lot, or consider swapping both out for a 'matched' pair of upgrades if funds allow.

Looking at your sig I assume it's the Ibby with the problem in which case you might find this link useful.... [url="http://ibanez.com/parts/2004_PARTS/el_bass/list/series_soundgear.html"]http://ibanez.com/parts/2004_PARTS/el_bass/list/series_soundgear.html[/url]

I've never had a Jaguar so I might be off the mark here, but as long as it has a universal rout under the scratch plate (and obviously you'll need to swap the scratchplate as well) then I don't see why not. Wiring wise just should be a direct swap out for the neck Jazz I think. Make sure you get your polarity right tho. I'd recommend shielding the cavities with copper tape while you're at it (if it's not already done with conductive paint) and grounding the shielding. If it hasn't gor a universal rout then you'll need to get it routed out which isn't a big job for a guitar tech or luthier.

I have a Nordstrand NPJ4SE set in my PJ and I think it would give you the sound you want. Traditional P thump but with added middle from the jazz, and with roundwounds a modern twang too..

I threw about 20 lanyards away yesterday... Donation, done!

Conversion of a 4 string neck's not a goer IMO. Just not enouh space. You'd end up with unplayably narrow spacings and all the head stock geometry would be wrong. A 5 string neck might do it but then you'd have to rout for new pups and neck pocket, plus buy new hardware and install new pups. I guess it could be done but it's a challenge and one slip and you're left with an expensive lump of firewood...

For all the effort and expense you could just buy one.... I'm with BassBus - persevere with selling and buy a 5er.

My first build was purple satin (with a maple FB). I'm working on a gloss orange one now (with a maple FB). Some colours just work....

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1351635903' post='1853657']
that's what I was going to ask - can i stick matt/satin colours under a clear coat - or would you just use a gloss colour and no clear coat?
[/quote]

Either - but you can get a better 'sparkle' with a clear coat and they tend to be harder wearing... BUT check the compatibility between the paint and the clear coat, and obviously clear coating is more work. I suppose it depends what you're looking for in the finish. For a solid colour finish not using a clear coat gives a more 'traditional' look I suppose, but if you want uber glossy and hardwearing its clear coat all the way with all the flatting and buffing that goes with it!