Yes, absolutely. I had a bit of a ferret around on Reverb and a single JB Hyperflux seems to be priced arounf the £200 mark, so there's your profit on the deal I suppose. If that T bird had frets and the seller could be perseuded into a more realistic price it would be an interesting project for someone- its essentially a great bass- but I appreciate that this is entirely wishful thinking on my part😆
It looks like you are right...Has to be said, that is a pretty niche thing to do. 'I need new pickups for my John Birch bass, therefore I will buy another John Birch bass and take the pickups out of it'...That is quite weird, right?
Quite different machines perhaps? I have a Passion from 198 something and its wonderful, having said that the John Birch, for all its flaws sounds like Concord taking off (in a good way).
That is awesome. Also, that pic of the maple bass with black triangles and stars on the fretboard is the same as mine. Who knows, it might even be mine? He made so much really cool, interesting stuff. I'll attach a pic of mine below..
JB.pdf
My one - and I'd be interested to hear from anyone else that has one to compare notes- has very little mass around the heel of the neck, consequently the neck can be pulled forward making the action a bit high. I've ameliorated this a little by using low tension flats but it is definitely an issue with my bass, I'd be interested to know if anyone else has experienced anything similar?
Its a nice looking bass, two grand is quite a lot of cash though. But then again, look what they are charging for real Rickenbackers....sigh...
Interesting. This has six knobs. My one only has five.
Lovely bass by the way. I'm on the lookout for a slim necked Spector. They have a georgous US relic'd NS2 with the thin neck at Bass Direct, but its the thick end of seven grand, which is an awful lot of money...
Thats a good question. Its easy enough to take a bit of depth out of the 'shoulders' of a neck. Its also fairly straightforward to make a neck shallower from front to back as long as you have enough clearance from the underneath of the truss rod. I think though that the Wimbish ones are 1.5" wide at the nut and the standard ones are 1.61" (thats from memory so I might be wrong on the exact decimals), so that would be quite a job, reducing the width at the neck and then in turn changing the taper of the neck from where it joins the body. I'd be interested to know if anyone has had this done?