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pantherairsoft

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About pantherairsoft

  • Birthday 16/02/1982

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    Derby, UK

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  1. I’m very interested in the Thorpyfx version. I suspect it’s going to cost a touch more than the Behringer though!
  2. One of my greatest regrets was selling my MP-201 some ten years back. Finally, I got my hands on another. Mint condition. Christmas came early.
  3. Super rare Iron Ether Super FrantaBit - basically two FranaBits in one box, with foot switches to flip flop between them both, as well as switch between Degrade and Obliterate mode. One of the most versatile and sought after Bit Crushers ever made. Grab this now, without the painfully long wait, shipping, and a massive VAT bill when it arrives in the UK! Now £385, inc postage in the UK. Selling this to buy a Hologram Microcosm (had one, massive regrets over selling it), but will consider the following trades/part-exs: Hologram Microcosm, Red Panda Tensor, Triungolo Barbanera. Iron Ether Polytope, Iron Ether Xerograph, Providence Anadime Bass Chorus, Ibanez Ashula SRAS7 (Dragon Eye Burl finish).
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  4. There is honestly no right answer to this question. There is no right order. There is only the order that sounds best to you/gets you the tone you want. While there is a common go to as a starting point, it is normal to break out of that order to find specific sound combinations, because pedal A and pedal B will sound different together depending on which comes first. If you only use 1 pedal at a time then the order matters not. That go to order to start is: Pitch - Dirt - Filters - Modulation - Delay - Reverb Compression either first or last depending on its purpose in your chain. EQ’s place is entirely dependant on what you are shaping with it - are you adjusting the clean signal before it hits the drive? It goes before the drive. Are you shaping the tone that comes out of the drive? it goes after the drive. Are you using it to tame the sonic mess that happens when all pedals are on at once? Then put it at the end of the chain? So, don’t worry about where it ‘should go’ as there is no place for that. Just experiment with every combination and placement, and settle on what works for you. I hope that helps.
  5. As an update my lost… ACG Salace E-Type Schroeder 1212 Markbass SD800 Too many pedals (if there are loads of amps and cabs coming already, I might not bother with mine).
  6. A simple solution, be it one with a high upfront cost, could be to replace your existing power supply with one that already has a USB charge port on it, such as the CIOKS DC7. Though it's pricey, you could sell whatever you existing supply is to claw back some funds, and the CIOKS is pretty amazing - a worthwhile investment. At least with this approach you know that it was designed for that application and you're not putting any strain on the supply, or injecting noise etc. into the signal chain.
  7. I considered the same, but the depth issue is actually very minor… it’s still effectively one rail of a pedaltrain- this just overhangs the space between rails more. Compared to have much space 12 loops worth of QM’s would be… it’s tiny. And I love the QM! This is just super good for the size.
  8. On a moderate budget, and fairly easy to obtain, I’d recommend the MXR that you highlighted, or the EBS Unichorus. If you want to spend a bit more, or don’t mind importing, the Providence Anadime Bass Chorus (make sure you get the bass version) is amazing, as is the Horrothia Type One.
  9. I really like this. It’s like a little slice of the Microcosm (and similar pedals) boiled down to its simplest form. I could absolutely make use of this on my ambient board.
  10. Subdecay Echobox is an awesome delay. Used to be my absolute favourite. The modulation sounds in it are lush.
  11. An old favourite, updated with some modern additions, including a much needed clean blend.
  12. Starting to rethink my board…
  13. I got to AB a Sub Phatty against my 25 a few months back. Aside the drive section, there wasn’t much to report back on, which is a testament to how well they produced the Subsequent. The Phatty has a look to it that’s really awesome though!
  14. Yeah, I don’t know how many there are… but not many!
  15. Oh the irony - I posted this about on page 1 of the thread about how the Moog EP-3 wouldn't play with the Eventide. Guess what the second pedal I ever used that won't work with the EP-3 is. Yeah, you guessed it, the XS-1! It somehow tricks the pedal, and in heel position it thinks it's a control switch and does some weird stuff and flicks the LED to green, then when you push it, it takes about a quarter swell before it flicks to expression pedal mode. Also, with the EP-3 connected, when you toggle the XS1 on and off, it always returns to toe down position (knob setting, as if there was no expression connected) until you move it. I have other expression pedals (it's fine with my Dunlop), but that's super frustrating as I use the Moog on my board with an expression pedal splitter. URGH. UDATE: Via the expression pedal splitter, the issue is solved. The electronics in that seem to offset whatever issue the Moog EP-3 causes to the XS-1... so the issue is now much less of an issue. Win!
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