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pantherairsoft

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Everything posted by pantherairsoft

  1. How sub-like does this get with the LPF rolled back? Is the cut off point fairy resonant, or much more subtle tone shaping? thanks!
  2. Sold a pedal to Bert. Great comms, quick payment, and hassle free. Can’t ask for more! Many thanks.
  3. The Barbanera didn't stay too long. It had a small fault, which while it could have been corrected by sending it Triungolo, the always on drive annoyed me way more than the Moog did - it seemed to have a different character in the low mids to the Moog, at least to my ear. It was a solid filter, but it had its own slight flavour when placed side by side with the Moog (less obviously different than a Xerograph or DUSK though etc). I eventually settled on the Dr Scientist DUSK as it just sounded better to me, be it with a touch less warmth (but then, I wasn't looking for warmth) and a more controllable 'hifi' sound. The PastFX has a dedicated level switch so you can balance the drive... low drive, high volume for a cleaner sound at the same volume etc. The addition of true bypass (which can be turned off for those who want the old Moog vibe) is a great touch. It means you can dime the drive if you want a heavily overdriven tone from it, but just bypass it like any other pedal. The Drive character is very faithful to the Moog. Honestly, I think anyone would be hard pushed to tell the PastFX apart from the Moog on a blind test. Until (if) the 251 gets expression through, I am planning to run both the DUSK and the 101 on the board, with the DUSK performing LFO duties (multiple wave forms and tap tempo), into the 101, which can sweep cutoff after them. That stacking of cutoff resonance is really cool, and it means I get a tap tempo LFO with expression control of the cutoff, which is halfway towards Moog MP-201 territory.
  4. Blown away by these. The 101 is the most accurate Moog reproduction I’ve tried. Stunning work. The 251 is great at condensing the original CP-251 features that you are most likely to use with a pedal. It’s only downside is that it does not have expression through. I have already suggested this to the builder for future mods and they seemed keen. With expression through, the 251 will become a seriously powerful addition to many pedalboards.
  5. Purchased a Gramma Pad from Len. Dropped it off, lovely bloke, great condition item, very fair price - can’t ask for more!
  6. Purchased a Subdecay Prometheus from Jonnybass. Great comms, super helpful! Thanks.
  7. You could sell me your Hulk and use the money to buy Si’s Meatbox. Everyone wins! (I already have a Meatbox, but always fancied trying the Hulk to compare). The Meatbox is a MONSTER.
  8. One thing not to be worried about is a loss of low end… it’s monstrous! Ha. Zero low end loss, even when using sub octave pedals. It’s frankly gorgeous sounding.
  9. I've accidentally fallen back into a live electronica project, which is something I didn't think I'd ever do again. As such, I have been able to dig out some classics again, like my SL-20. Sounded so damn good last night. Can't wait to jam with this board again! Full run down for those who care about that kind of thing.... PedalTrain Jr Max (with risers along the top). All cabled with EBS gold flat patch cables. Powered by a Cioks DC7 + 8 Expander. Signal chain... Input -> Boss OC-5 Octave -> Horrothia Teeth Mk.1 -> Dr. Scientist Frazz Dazzler -> The Really Good Pedal Co. Funky Puppy -> WMD Geiger Counter Pro -> Horrothia Type One -> Mr. Black Gilamondo -> Dr. Scientist Tremolessence V3 -> Boss SL-20 Slicer -> Dr. Scientist DUSK (black out enclosure) -> Source Audio Nemesis -> Keeley Bassist (used as a hard limiter) -> TC Electronics PolyTune Mini2 -> Output I'm kinda hoping that in the I can slim this down and do less stuff/hand over more sonic duty to the keys player, but for now, I'm rocking the full tool box. Generally happy with everything here, though I'm considering swapping out the Funky Puppy for a Mastotron and Prometheus combo. The FP is utterly awesome, but the controls are sooooo sensitive to different input levels that balancing it to various pedals before it is a constant challenge. I'll see how I feel after the next session.
  10. The Mk.2 is £250 the last time it was in stock. If you ever find yourself near Derby, you're more than welcome to come give this one a whirl. Shep
  11. They came out with a Mk.2, that replaced the 2-position switch with a knob (so offering more range) and the Mk.2 can run on battery. This Mk.1 version is officially discontinued. However, I understand that the Mk.2 is out of production at the moment pending a restock on a number of components. Not discontinued though, so I'd expect another run in the future. This one, serial 000, was Tom at Horrothia's personal one, which he was kind enough to let go as I was very persistent in wanting one I've been using this daily since it arrived and it's easily the nicest low-gain drive I've ever used (and I've used a lot!).
  12. Excellent pedal, especially the fuzz side IMO!
  13. As a big fan of the Subdecay Noisebox, I’m super excited to give this a serious go!
  14. Incredible pedal. I used to use this in my main live rig as a compressor and end of chain limiter. One of TC’s best ever pedals IMO.
  15. Like Higgie mentioned, the Grape is really excellent and super easy to use. I’d also vote for the Mr Black Gilamondo… equally lush and simple. Both, however, will run you more than £100. IMO the best sub £100 phaser is the EBS DPhaser. It’s discontinued now, but tends to fetch £75-90 when they appear on eBay and Reverb. For that money, I personally think it rocks.
  16. Seems that tonally the phaser was a very accurate reproduction, and as others have already done a pretty solid job of replicating the tone in the 101, I think this one likely will be just as good. Interested to hear user feedback, as I’m sure there are more than a couple of basschatters that will pick this up!
  17. The Artefakt seems uber cool. I've been considering one myself. NOTHING gets the tone of the foogers though... but they're also massive, colour your tone even when bypassed, have awkward power needs, cost a fortune, have temperamental foot switches and and and a million other downsides. But they are cool
  18. It's more of a tremolo, that adds various harmonies to your sound. It's similar to an arpeggiator, but due to the tremolo depth (if set deep), it cuts your core tone up into strange choppy textures. It's a thing you need to hear in detail to explain. Here is an old track, from the band that used the massive board I shared earlier. This track uses the old 2-pedal slicer (in the intro and again later, but more subtle). I share this because it uses the same filter-y octave tone as the one in the video, which is why I think it's a slicer. The depth on this one is low, so the bass tone underneath isn't being fully chopped up, but you can hear the similarities. Badcode Babble - https://ourhelicalmind.bandcamp.com/track/barcode-babble-ft-duke01
  19. The Clusterflux is the one I miss the most. That whole ‘time slow down whale noise’ it can do with some knob twiddling (or expression), is utterly next level. Best Chorus I ever used by far.
  20. Sounds a lot like a Boss Slicer, or at least some kind of harmonic rhythmic tremolo. This is a pattern on the original 2 pedal slicer (not sure it it's on the new smaller one, as lots of the patterns changed) that sounds exactly the same, so that's where my money is!
  21. Yeah, it was fun. My Roscoe at the time was a natural finish, so Mark at Bass Direct loaned the Candy Apple Red one he had in stock so it looked bling in the video. Im going to dig into old hard drives next week to see if any of the old vids are out there!
  22. I still have nightmares—and back pain—from the memories of this board. But I do miss the Foogers. I miss the MP-201 most of all. Big big regrets about selling that. These pics are actually from a music video shoot... and it seems the old band YouTube was deleted somehow, along with it went all our music videos
  23. Yeah, that was another time. The board was pretty well documented on here back then. I gigged with a board that was custom made and was strictly a 2-man lift (1.4m wide, around 50kg). it was all a bit silly really. But life led me to sell up everything (I was bass-less for 3 years), though really my entire collection was on the board to be fair. Pic of that old board for the new crowd that never saw it back in the day! Note this was only has 4 foogers, but the custom Xerograph had just taken the place of the Moog LPF... it didn't stay for long though as it struggled with the CV messages from the MP-201. There are 5-6 pedals not seen under the rear raised tier as well. That board was... fun.
  24. I still need to recable this, but I’ve had a major shuffle over the last few months. I’ve also broken my ‘if it’s not on the board, it gets sold’ routine… so there are a few toys on the shelf for swapping in and out. For a long time I struggled to justify having a ‘collection’ and so I just kept making the board bigger and bigger. I’ve finally got out of that silly spiral Large board is my bass board, small board is for synth (and the space at the edge is for a Walrus Canvas Stereo LI). The big board is really two boards in one. It covers my synthy/electronica/soundscape side of things, and my prog-y Tool-esque rock stuff. Realistically, it could be two boards, but I like the option to throw in a few extra sounds here and there. I also have PT Classic 1, so might put one side of the board on the shelf for a bit given I’m not gigging at the mo and downsize the board.
  25. FWIW, you can absolutely adjust that bridge to 19mm, I did with my old Roscoe. You just have to push the B and G strings to the outer edge of the saddle adjustments, and the E and D string accordingly. These bridges allow for left and right adjustment, I've even had mixed spacing on strings before for a Roscoe when I was trying some stuff out that was ultimately pointless. It does mean the string position on the fretboard at the 24th fret is 'slightly' closer to the edge, but it's so minor 99% of people won't notice, and who plays at the 24th fret anyway! I'd totally have a play with that adjustment as it might just solve everything for you. You prob know, but these Allen key slots are to move the saddles left and right. When they are all centralised (like they currently are), you get 18mm spacing.
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