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pantherairsoft

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Everything posted by pantherairsoft

  1. Initial pedal layout... [IMG]http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/pantherairsoft/Amp%20Cab%20Pedals/65191aa8.jpg[/IMG] Space at top left is for incoming Moogerfooger Cluster Flux
  2. Maybe it sounds bigger in the M9 as its after the M9 EQ section, allowing you to beef it up and tailor it more to bass. The FM4 just always sounds 'thin' to me. One mans hate is another mans love though...
  3. [quote name='AndyW' timestamp='1319379083' post='1413315'] That's what I was hoping! The Whammy IV tracked like a dream for me, so will be looking to try another DT a.s.a.p. Thankfully it saved me some cash yesterday as I needed to pick up the Aguilar pedal most urgently. [/quote] Yeah. I assumed I was either unlucky, or the 1st batch had some quality control issues. The one I tried int he shop was perfect. After have 2 bad ones from the stock room, I just asked for the one I'd tried on display! Lol. It's tracking is lovely and it tracks 4 and 6 string chords as well. I was told it wouldn't cut top end like the Whammy IV does, but unfortunately it does - I run mine after my fuzz and distortion pedals. (which add lots off top end harmonic content). If you run it before the gain section of your chain you'd never notice, but I assume you know that as a Whammy IV owner! [quote name='AndyW' timestamp='1319379083' post='1413315'] P.S. Am still in love with your Roscoes from the London get-together a few weeks ago! [/quote] Me too!
  4. Duncan bought my Clifton Downright. He really knows his Cliftons and given the pleasure on his face as he handed over the money I'm getting the feeling I should of asked for more! Absolutely top chap, great communication and very friendly. Cheers bud! Shep
  5. That photo doesn't exactly give it much perspective. Wait till you see some pics tomorrow!
  6. Really!? They sound pretty different to me...
  7. I have a whammy DT and it blows the socks off my Whammy IV. Better tracking, more natural sounding upper octave. All round awesome. I'd say it was a duff pedal. My 1st 2 went back! 1 blown LED and one over tightened treadle.
  8. Lol. Chris!? Are you my mum!! Lol. I'm on the train to B'ham to deliver a bass to another bass chatter at the mo. Have a day off tomorrow so I'll be hitting the board setup hard providing my local haberdashery store have my industrial strength Velcro as promised. Quick pic from unboxing after delivery... [IMG]http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/pantherairsoft/Amp%20Cab%20Pedals/f35b097f.jpg[/IMG]
  9. I think you'd be better saving up and getting the MF-101 or saving for the BEF. I have had a play with one, an I know a few bassists that own them, but it doesn't cut it for me where solid bass envelopes am filters are concerned. The Line6 M9 does it better, plus loads more besides.
  10. [quote name='Sjonnie' timestamp='1319314458' post='1412719'] Only if you have a real stereo signal you should use both outputs, but in that case you probably don't want bridge mode. If you really need the two channels use a simple mixer, but never use a 'Y' cable. Look here : http://www.rane.com/note109.html for the details. [/quote] Very interesting article. I'm saving that link. Very very interesting. [quote name='Sjonnie' timestamp='1319315071' post='1412724'] I use a QSC as well. I run it in stereo mode into two Aguilar 2x12 cabs and love it that I'm capable of adding more bass to my tone without clipping the amp.[/quote] Exactly why I'm making this move - boosting of 40-50hz and EQ'ing back in what my huge effects chain takes away causes clipping at the output stage. I'm purely after headroom and clarity
  11. Pah - they wouldn't even get it moving
  12. [quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1319309102' post='1412638']Make sure you mark which end is which: We use 4-pole at the amp end and 2-pole on the cab end of bridging cables to avoid mistakes![/quote] Yeah - bright green electrical tape around the cable at the amp end. It'll likely stay connected to the amp end within the amps case anyway. I assume the +1 remains connected to +1 via one core, then the -1 is connected to +2 via the other? One question I haven't found an answer to is that the pre I have been looking at has 2 outputs labeled L and R. Should I just take the TRS-XLR from one side to the channel 1 input of the power amp, or should I use a splitter which is wired 2x TRS - XLR so L & R run into the one channel, or - will it make little difference Shep
  13. Yeah - i'll take that back if it collapses on it's 1st gig!
  14. Thats a great board for a DIY job. Seriously seriously impressive mate! You could start selling them to the BC community.
  15. I have just finished rewiring a speakon as described. +1/-1 at the cab and, +1/+2 at the amp end. I think my initial confusion was trying to decipher the manuals at 1am in the morning! Thankfully I own 4 Speakon-Speakon leads, all with NL4 connectors so it was easy to change around. Shep
  16. Cheers bud! I'd already had 1,2 & 3 answered and your answers confirm my conclusions... Shep
  17. Most EBS stuff is very loud for it's power rating. The Drome IMHO was one of the best amps they ever made. Was it the Drome or the Neo Drome you used? Sad thing is they don't make them anymore and pretty much no one has any left (Bernie @ GB Basses may still have one though...). They have since released the Drome Classic, which I was a little less inspired by the tone from, but still holds itself as a decent combo.
  18. Yeah this is a tad outdated. Half of whats in the thread is no more. In fact, my ride as a bassist since starting this thread has changed soooooooo much. I never thought when I started this thread as a rock bassist, that I'd be playing live drum & bass in nightclubs by now!! What do I currently use... I own 2 basses now- Roscoe Century Signature 6 Fretted & Roscoe Century 3006 Fretless I also own a D'Armond Ashbory (strung with Pahoehoe Uke' strings), that is used mainly at home, but sometimes in the studio for upright tones, although most such tones come from the Roscoe fretless these days. Rig wise- Barefaced Big Twin T, driven by an EBS 1v2 Pre and Crown XTi 1000 [IMG]http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/pantherairsoft/Amp%20Cab%20Pedals/c87580c2.jpg[/IMG] At home I now have an SWR WorkingMans 10 combo for practice use, and the photo above shows the expanse of my current pedal set up. I'm waiting to have my new custom board all set up before posting anymore pedalboard pics though... Thats about it. I've had a huge clear out to fund some of the custom items I use and so literally EVERYTHING else that has appeared in this thread has moved on. Most of them to other members of the BassChat community. Shep
  19. 'inefficient' was in ' ' marks as it was a sarcastic comment. I've never used a cab with such immense sensitivity and output. I don't actually consider it remotely inefficient
  20. Thanks for your input. I'm not generating regular bass tones etc... I'm generating huge boosts at 40-50hz similiat to that of PA subs. In fact what I do really is PA related. 1000w plus is totally needed. Boosting 50hz at 3db doubles the power requirement. My EBS amp head is clipping at the output stage causin audible distortion due to the huge 6.5ft wide effects chain which is being fed into it and the huge array of frequencies and sub it's needed to generate. I've spent some time at a local venue and borrowed a power amp to try out a few things and the huge increase in headroom sorts out everything. My application is quite specific and if I was playing 'bass' at any point I'd agree with your statement above, but really I'm a synth player. I do use a 'inefficient' Barefaced cab. This is the only cab which exploits the whole frequency spectrum of what I do as most cabs do not accurately produce 40-50hz in the same way as a PA sub, as most bassists wouldn't want that to muddy their sound - I do. The Big Twin has 2 low passed speakers that love 40hz! It reacts like a PA sub & top in 1 box, which is what I need, not a bass rig. As for buying gear I don't know how to use!? Everyone starts somewhere dude. I know how to use the functions etc, I'm just asking for clarification on some points that are. It accurately covered in most power amp manuals from other players that already use similar setups. Most of my questions have been answered helpfully by PM now anyway and I've used said answers to research further. I'm not in the habit of taking the advice of 'virtual friends' as gospel, but I figure that is kinda the point in a resource like BassChat! Shep
  21. Hey folks. Venturing into my 1st pre & power set up. Manuals are rather techy so for those of you using set ups like this I wonder if you can answer the following questions... [b]1...[/b] Preamp has L/R outputs Jack only that can run in either mono or stereo Poweramp has L/R XLR inputs The power amp will be using in 'Bridged Mono' mode... so... I assume I have to connect left & right (to bridge them) rather than just one side of the setup (for regular mono)? Also, would the best connection be a Stereo (TRS) jack to XLR? [b]2...[/b] Power amp I'm looking at is the Crown XTi 1000 - [url="http://www.crownaudio.com/pdf/amps/139548.pdf"]http://www.crownaudi...amps/139548.pdf[/url] - I find much of what it says a little confusing regarding the Speakon outputs to the speaker. Should I be using 2-core, or 4-core cabling? I currently own a number of 2-core cables (but with Neutrik 4-pole plugs on) from both AudioSpares & Piranha. The diagrams seem to imply 2-core is fine, but the text implies it needs to be 4-core. Can anyone better minded in such things help? [b]3...[/b] If I use a pre amp that only has a single output, can the power amp still be used in Bridge mono mode (can you bridge channels without an incoming signal to each?) [b]4...[/b] I've read in places that when running an amp in bridge mono mode you have to specially wire a speakon lead differently at the amp end than the typical wiring that will be at the cab end... Is this correct? Shep
  22. Just bought it home from work in a friends car - It just fit. Unloaded its about as heavy as I can comfortably manage on a 1 hand carry. Loaded it will be strictly a 2 person lift up and down stairs!
  23. Good point! External dimensions measure 47 x 23 x 9.5" I actually could just about fit in it
  24. It's arrived! Wow it's huge. What have I done! Lol
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