MrDinsdale

For practice you could go for the Boss Katana Go too which gets great reviews. The Element seems like a great bit of kit, excellent addition to a pedalboard and well made. Might be a little overkill if you just wanna hear yourself play though.

It’s excellent 👌 loads of tones and plenty of grit options. Really love the depth and absence controls. Got too many good options now that I can’t decide which to keep 😭

There’s gotta be a way to make it all fit! 😰

Great sounding pickups and preamp, very punchy. Not sure it sounds exactly like a Wal but sounds excellent regardless.

Haha well fortunately my dad was a luthier and still got all the gear and a small workshop available for use 🙌 Gonna be a fair bit of work, gotta make the router templates, router the new cavity for the bridge, extend the P cavity for the neck and then make the scratch plate. Got a long list of other bits to sort like fixing a few dings, sorting a loose screw on the neck and strap lock where it’s loose. Also wanna take some of the gloss out of the finish. May be a few evenings before I get to play it 🥲

Yeah makes sense. I’ll be doing the same I think but balancing the placement so it looks right with the scratch plate. Thankfully the P-Bass scratch plate sits pretty low so shouldn’t be an issue with getting them close to the bridge 🙌

Looks excellent 👌 excited to see how it sounds! How did you decide on placement? Did you eyeball it or go with any specific measurements? Me too, was debating if it was worth the extra spend but I’m all about that mid growl. Knew I’d regret it if not🔥🔥🔥

Heck, the Turner multicoils just arrived today and they’re hefty! Here’s a DiMarzio Model P for reference. Build quality is fantastic on these!

Nice! I’m doing the same at the moment except with the Lusithand NFP Special. Just need to strip everything off and take all the copper tape out of the cavities ready to route it next week. Need to make a new scratch plate and fix a few dents well I’m at it too, very excited to get it all sorted 🙌 @0175westwood29 Did you go for the Original or English voiced version?

It changes fairly regularly but currently it’s: Polytune Jad Freer Capo input Capo pre loop send > Thumpinator Lusithand Alma Comp Boss OC5 Moose Sledgehammer EAE Halberd EAE Dagger HX One HX One send > EAE Model feT < Capo pre return Capo post send > < HX One return HX One output < Capo post return Capo output Couldn’t think of a better way to articulate it, certainly not any more concise. This means that I can have a clean DI and a DI from the end of the chain. I can also add fx either after drives but before the preamps or after preamps and before the DI.

Yeah, it’s a beautiful bass, plays great too. I think other active preamps I’ve tried or passive options like the Stellartone work much better for me personally, for whatever reason it always feels like I have more control with them. My signal chain and stuff I’m playing will probably have a big impact on that though.

I popped fresh batteries in to give it another go and I dunno what it is, maybe the choice of EQ points for the active preamp but it just doesn’t work for me. Even in passive mode anything other than full tone goes from really bright to mud almost instantly. Of all my basses it’s the one I really struggle to get a range of sounds I like from. I do love the one sound I can get out of it with everything on though.

Both laminate necks, the 1024x is calling out to me although it’s a tobacco sunburst which I can go either way on tbh.

Interesting, the 1024x was darker? Currently torn between the 424x/1024x as I love the metal control plate. I love my 734A but the preamp is a waste of space. Perhaps I can try and swap bodies with a 434 😂

Is the 1024x a worthy upgrade to the 424x for an extra £150-175ish?

For what it’s worth I was asking more specifically if it was just a case of matching the replaced pot with an equivalent resistor but all feed back is welcome. I have a pretty good selection of eq on my board and amp so it’d probably be manageable either way although I do like the sound of the bass so no immediate desire to tweak that sound drastically.

So after a little thinking not gonna do the mod I’d originally intended but may tweak another Jazz to have on/off push buttons for both pickups and then just a Stellartone b10. Found (someone else kindly shared the ones they use) some really nice metal latching push switches. I was tempted to see if I could mount the b10 at 90deg so it acts like a wheel so there aren’t any protruding knobs but that’s gonna be a time sink!!!

The HX One has been on my board for a few days now and so far pretty impressed, does exactly what I need in a much smaller package than the Boss GT1000core I had on there previously. I’m currently using it to apply some noise reduction, light EQ and the occasional fx other than dirt (which I’m already kitted out for) when needed. So far gotta hand it to them the Noble and Retro Reel sound excellent for a little depth. There are some really great modulation and delays in there I need to dig in to.

Might have to grab one, it’d be so handy to be able to plug in while looking after the offspring.

Ahh yeah seen the Artec stuff, crazy cheap for what it is. I wouldn’t be after a momentary kill switch Tom Morrello style, it’d just be a mute switch.

Interesting, I was thinking of just having an on/off latching push switch for each pickup and a Stellartone b10 pot for simplicity. Something like this:

Hey, just like the title says really, I don’t have much use for volume pots aside from muting especially on my Jazz which is VVT. Anyone replaced the volume pots with push buttons? I’m guessing you’d want to pop a resistor in there to mimic the pots value but anything else to consider. Also any recommendations for where to get them? You can grab them on eBay but always dubious about quality, really wanting black metal ones, probably 16-22mm.

Actually just measured placement and the neck PU should sit practically over the top of the current p pickup cavity. The pickup ring makes them look far more tightly spaced than they actually are!

It’s happening 🥲 @funkle any thoughts around adapting the P-bass and placement? I was thinking when I make the new pick guard I’d make it slightly lower so that the pickups can sit closer to the bridge. The electronics cavity might need to grow a slither to accommodate the extra control too! Please excuse the crudeness of the mockup, the size of the pickups is correct but missing the ears/lugs/screw thingys.