bumnote

I used to have a 450 which is the single channel version. One of the best amps I have ever owned

Still a great amp

offer to make up the difference to a decade

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='1091354' date='Jan 16 2011, 01:49 PM']Agreed, I never used to have mine above 2 or 3.... its only recently that I've retired the poor old girl, due to the geetards in my band refusing to play at anything less than ear-bleeding volume![/quote]
Try and get a 370

Going back to the OP the best thing you can do is to connect it up with the proper cables and actually try it.

All this theoretical stuff is all very well but does it do what you want or not.

One thing to remember about acoustic amps is that the volume control is not consistant all the way round. By that I mean that the amp will be running flat out long before the volume knob reaches no 10. When I used to use mine with a hefty bass boost, I was often on volume no 2 or 3 and the amp was not far off flat out.

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='1090647' date='Jan 15 2011, 05:16 PM']Maybe I'm just being a bit dim here.....[/quote]


I dont think you are

I am not sure thats correct, anodised aluminium does not conduct electricity see below from wiki

Conductor materialsOf the metals commonly used for conductors, copper has a high conductivity. Silver is more conductive, but due to cost it is not practical in most cases. However, it is used in specialized equipment, such as satellites, and as a thin plating to mitigate skin effect losses at high frequencies. Because of its ease of connection by soldering or clamping, copper is still the most common choice for most light-gauge wires.

Main article: Aluminum wire
Aluminium has been used as a conductor in housing applications for cost reasons. It is actually more conductive than copper when compared by unit weight, but it has technical problems that have led to problems when used for household and similar wiring, sometimes having led to structural fires:

a tendency to form an electrically resistive surface oxide within connections, leading to heat cycling of the connection (unless protected by a well-maintained protective paste);
a tendency to "creep" under thermal cycling, causing connections to get looser due to a low mechanical yield point of the aluminium; and
a coefficient of thermal expansion sufficiently different from the materials used for connections, accelerating the creep problem and addressed by using only plugs, switches, and splices rated specifically for aluminium.
These problems do not affect other uses, and aluminium is commonly used for the low voltage "drop" between a power pole and the household meter. It is also the most common metal used in high-voltage transmission lines, in combination with steel as structural reinforcement.

[color="#FF0000"]The surface of anodized aluminium does not conduct electricity, and sometimes this must be considered when aluminium enclosures are to be electrically bonded for safety or to enclose or exclude electromagnetic radiation.[/color]


I had a real problem making a raven labs preamp work which has to be earthed until I put copper screening foil on the back of the pickguard

[quote name='icastle' post='1090087' date='Jan 15 2011, 01:58 AM']Probably not.
If you have two 100W speakers in series you can put 200W through them - If you take the same two speakers and wire them in parallel you can only put 100W through them.

Put the whole lot in parallel and you will only be able to handle 100W.[/quote]


Are you saying If you wire say 4 100 watt 16 ohm speakers together in parallel, giving a theoretical combined impedance of 4 ohm the 4 speakers will only be able to safely handle 100 watt total, [25 watt per speaker] if so that is incorrect

[quote name='Lemming16' post='1090074' date='Jan 15 2011, 01:12 AM']Btw, is it ok if i use a guitar cable for connecting the bass to the amp? or should i also use a speaker cable, like the one from the amp to the cab.

Thx[/quote]

Yes thats what you should use, it is a screened cable which is designed to give you an interference free signal into the amplifier.
The speaker on the other hand is receiving a very much higher current signal and need to be heavier gauge wires and doesnt need to be screened.

I agree with 4 str thing.

I recently sold my 220 which was originally designed to go with the 406 2x15 4 ohm cab and its loud. Acoustic used to make great amps, very reliable, and still very useable today.
As I have found to my cost, the difference in volume if you change from an 8 ohm to a 4 ohm speaker, allowing your amp to develop the extra power is negligable. I think you will find unless your band are pretty loud, the acoustic will probably keep up.

Definitly only use 1 cable and you should not use a guitar cable to connect the cab to the amp, you should use a proper speaker lead to handle the power.

Lots of info here

[url="http://unofficialacousticcontrolcorpmessageboard.yuku.com/"]http://unofficialacousticcontrolcorpmessageboard.yuku.com/[/url]

ask him to send you photos
you may find that the guitar he is claiming is fake is not the one you sold him, ask him to identify on the the photos any areas of concern
do you have photos of the guitar you sold him?

Great memories

A picture of my first guitar, a brown Hofner president priced to you sir at 46 gns, paid for at 10 bob a week what seemed for ever.
And the Bert Weedon plectrum that I always dropped

[quote name='silddx' post='1088123' date='Jan 13 2011, 03:08 PM']Really interesting, thanks for posting it.

No health and safety apparent there though! The guy in the spray booth and the woodworkers have no respiratory protection or other personal protective equipment, no machine guarding (watch the ejected piece of wood at 2.55!), I wonder how many early Fender employees had respiratory health problems later in life, or took a few fingers of, or had a eye out ..[/quote]


I had an interesting coversation with a factory inspector a few years ago about guards. He said in SOME cases, people got complacent because there were guards fitted to machines, and they bo longer took reasonable care.

I used to work in a factory in 1962 and it was not unlike that in terms of machinery. We used to have a plating shop with open windows and no ventilation, and we all used trichloroetheline by the bucketfull for cleaning.

How times change

my experience with peavey has been that generally they are built like tanks

However. looking at a deltalite or basslite will give you a weight saving

The basket on a black widow is replaceable at under a £100 for a 15

These people do spares for ampeg including tolex, dunno if its what you want

[url="http://www.fliptops.net/catalog/index.php"]http://www.fliptops.net/catalog/index.php[/url]

Thats a great amp, same as the 450 but with twin channels and reverb and tremolo.

170 watts into a 2 4 or 8 ohm load

I used to have a 450 which I rate as the best amp I have ever owned possibly with the exception of my current 370.

[quote name='dan670844' post='1080366' date='Jan 6 2011, 08:11 PM']But I bet you wish wish you had kept that combo, what was it a JTM Bass? worth a fortune![/quote]

It was a jtm blues breaker combo with tremelo very few were made, a certain EC used one on the BluesBreaker album, but his was a 2x12 and yes it would be worth a fair bit today.

The trouble is we have got used to relatively cheap gear and we wont pay the same for equipment that we once used to.

My first amp in 1965 was a marshal 50w combo which cost £115. I earned £5 12 6 a week That was about 20 weeks wages on probably the equivalent of a min wage now. That was for a "budget" amp.

So when Jim Marshall was making his amps, thats why he could afford a team of people making amps by hand.

Now, we use printed circuits, make them in a low wage economy, or pay loads for the privelege of making them in the UK.

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1080110' date='Jan 6 2011, 04:56 PM']I think Bumnote might be onto something with regards to budget.

A budget head that's giggable would be brilliant. There's lots of people who want a gigging amp on a shoestring budget and loads are forced to go 2nd hand or wait and save.

There really aren't a lot of heads around for under £200 that are comfortably giggable, I know it wouldn't meet the criteria of a lot of posts in this thread, but this forum isn't an accurate cross section of bassists, it's people who are interested enough in gear and bass playing that they're prepared to sign up to a site and read about it (and most likely know what they like and either own it or are working towards owning it). I know a LOT of bassists that just play bass, the biggest factor in what they own is how much it cost first, looks second and playability and sound third.

Bringing out a cheap head would open up the possibility of getting a stack rather than a combo. If you could bring out a nice head (for the money) and stick it with a cab for the price of an Ashdown MAG, I think you'd be onto a winner.[/quote]

Unfortunately the chance of bringing out something anywhere near £200 is pretty unlikely.

I was thinking more in the range 7-900, where you are up in the markbass/ampeg non valve stuff. Its a lot of money, but there is a reasonable market and little competition.

Whether it can be done for that I have no idea

I think you have to decide who your target market is and price point.

I would like 300 watt, ultralight weight, and under £100

Seriously, everyone on Bass chat is a potential customer, but are you targeting the £1700 market of the Ashdown BTA, or the other end, I see the Ashdown lil Bastard is going for just over £300 at the moment.

If you ask us all what we would like, you will get an opinion, but how many of us are going to put our hands in our pocket, and buy from you a new tube amp, rather than waiting for them to come up used on flea bay or amps for sale. Ive seen SH Boogies hang around for months before selling and they are an established brand.

The liklyhood is few people can afford the new cost, or the weight, or even the cost of revalving a BTA/SVT. Then you have the competition, why would someone buy yours rather than BTA/SVT/Boogie

In my view the 30w lil bastard is a great idea, very competively priced, but can you gig with it, many people will think not. It would be great if it was a bit more powerfull

In my view the area not really catered for is the mid power say 100w - 200w in a reasonable price. The traynor 200w jobbie looked good on paper, but difficult to get hold of in the uk and no where to try them.

The guys who are already into valve amps will have their SVTs, Boogies, or older Bassman, MM HD 130, Sound City etc.

Some of the regular posters have and will go to Matamp and get a custom, but IMO your target customer is someone who might otherwise buy a non valve ashdown or Markbass or TC Head, where there is no real already established competition.

Good luck

Anyone here work for PMT?

I e mailed them a week ago about some PJB stuff and they didnt reply.

Phoned them on Tuesday morning and they promised to phone back and Im still waiting

Compare that with Mark at Bass Direct who I emailed at 8.30 on Tues evening and got a reply in 15 minutes, and 2 further responses next morning.

While I do enjoy a bit of haggling, good informed customer service will always help to buid and maintain a loyal customer service. I am far more likely to travel to Warwick than Southend if I want to complete my purchase.

Its not just todays purchase, its the next one, and the next one. I rarely use my local store because over the last 30 odd years, I have found their prices poor, and service indifferent I shudder to think how much money I have spent in other stores and through mail order, although I did get great service from a new guy in there when I bought my daugter an acoustic guitar for christmas.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1078858' date='Jan 5 2011, 05:38 PM']Me next after Psychoandy, cheers!

Jon.[/quote]

After Bassassin please
Thanks

[quote name='Prime_BASS' post='1070696' date='Dec 28 2010, 12:55 AM']It was stood on a colapsable one second I turned away next it was falling over, id had a pint an hour before so I wasn't hammered, or even tipsy enough to miss the stand or something.

My anger is that I was told we had "band" insurance (which would have covered gear if it was torched or stolen)and it turns out it we hadn't. So I feel a bit miss led. In my anger I justwanted someone to blame.

I'd definatly be more pissed if the neck snapped or something, or if it was considerablly more expensive bass.

Looks like I'm looking for a reversed schaller BML tuner in chrome, anyone?
And gear insurance aswell.

Lesson learned, the hard way.[/quote]

Even if you had band insurance, its likely that the excess would be such that it wouldnt be worth a claim.

If I were in your shoes, I would investigate your own insurance, there are a number of pinned threads about this. Dont rely on other people taking care of it for you, decide what cover you want, or even if you think it is worth it, many people dont, and arrange your own. That way you will be in charge of your own destiny, and presumably you will have to pay for the insurance anyway whether its done as a band or as an individual.

Strings and things are generally very helpfull, give them a ring and see what they suggest

[quote name='Phil Starr' post='1069476' date='Dec 26 2010, 09:43 AM']Oops, too much Christmas spirit, I punched the wrong keys on my calculator. The essential point is, it is area not diameter, but you have this.

Actually it is not area but displacement and BFM has given you the figures for this as well. As well as their size and weight 8x10's and all multiple driver speakers have problems with their radiation patterns and cancellation of certain frequencies. Players tend to either love the sound or hate it. They don't usually lack bass or sound output as everyone is saying but the sound is quite coloured and a bit 'retro'. It's like marmite, you'll love it or hate it but it has a taste you can't mistake and it isn't nice mixed with anything else![/quote]

Thanks, wasnt having a dig but Ive learnt a lot from discussions here on speakers and just trying to understand