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hooky_lowdown

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Everything posted by hooky_lowdown

  1. I had a bass "get lost" by the courier last month. The first one for me, must a rite of passage. 😪
  2. The first two numbers is the year, so 00 = 2000. Squier have been using the Cort factory since late 80s / early 90s.
  3. She's a beauty. Love that 60s look. 😎
  4. It may be the strings at fault, not the bass. I like to get my action as low as possible, but as I try different strings, I always have to adjust. If I use high tension strings (i.e fender flats) I can get super low, then if I switch to some rounds I have to sometimes double the height of the saddles. While trialing different strings I've found certain strings (brand's) sound better on certain basses (brand's). No idea why, but it seems to be trial and error.
  5. Hi, Farida P bass is a nice bass.
  6. Those are some chunky screws in the bridge. Looks similar to an old Encore bass I had. 👍
  7. If you take it to Ashdown they will fix any problems for you for free.
  8. Groundwounds are the same as GHS Pressure wounds or D'Addario half rounds. 👍
  9. Did you see a series/parallel switch? So I'm guessing it's in series, therefore the caps I mentioned do impact the lows and highs.
  10. Before anyone else says it, what a gorgeous pair!?! 😉
  11. New Old stock of a set of Fender Nickel Super Bass 7250s strings. These are the good strings before Fender decided to change them. £11 including postage to UK only.
  12. Does look sweet. Really like the dark, smokey look with the chrome. 😎
  13. Looks sweet, but why did you use a guitar capacitor and not a bass one? Guitar: 0.022 will cut lows and allow more highs. Bass: 0.047 will allow more lows and cut some highs.
  14. By that logic, why do people buy expensive pickups over cheap ones?
  15. They may both be made in china, but doesn't mean they are made using the same materials. The quality of materials probably are different.
  16. I always loosen strings when posting basses. Keeping the strings at full tension, especially flats, can cause problems with heavy handed courier's or freezing cold warehouse's straight into warm rooms. I don't believe loosening the strings caused the skunk stripe issue.
  17. From your height and what you've said, go short scale all the way. Don't worry about short scale Vs long scale and the different sound dynamics, later down the line you could get an amp with lots of eq options, or an eq pedal to adjust these things.
  18. I've tried the 'upgrades' route, different tuner's, pickups, bridge, electrics. I've tried most brands, and never being totally happy with the so called 'upgrades', I'm finally ok with keeping things stock. I've found certain upgrades and strings work better on some basses than others. No idea why, but now I know what strings I like, and as long as I like how a bass feels and plays, I'm fine with keeping it stock.
  19. Buy whichever bass feels best and easiest for you to play. The most important thing for a first timer is to have a bass you like and want to pick up and play. Don't buy an instrument because it looks nice, or other people say it's great (it may be great for them, may not be right for you!). Once you've found a bass which feels right, then you look at strings: stainless steel roundwounds are bright, zingy, sometimes metallic sounding. Nickel roundwounds have some brightness, but are more 'bassy' sounding, warmer and a little easier on the fingers. Pickups should be secondary to both the above. You basically get two types of pickups, vintage or modern. Once you are proficient enough, you can get loads of suggestions and advice on pickups on this forum, or do a search, and read for yourself. Fenders, Sires are good, but may I also suggest Yamaha TRBX or BB range basses, they are excellently built, sound good, and have super nice necks, making them very easy to play and feel very nice in the hands.
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