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roger

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by roger

  1. Another/evolution of the Stienberger L2/XL2, 1 piece composite. Ergonomically perfect (with 1 mod, that's stupid strap thing on the back)🤷‍♂️
  2. Bought a streamline from Bill, top man to deal with, thanks bill
  3. Ok ok, we all know he ain’t making any for a while but…….🤣🤣🤣
  4. Hey thanks, I’m pretty happy with the nexk relief And it’s pretty low but it buzzes when screwing down the saddles further, I did think about nut slots as it looks like I could tweak those 👍
  5. How do you all go about getting the lowest possible action, is there a sequence you follow? And what is considered a ‘low action’? Thanks in advance
  6. Fender AM/bitsa P bass. After pining after a custom shop relic I decided to create my own. I kinda used Stevie Vai’s strat as a rough model for the level of paint. So……. It’s essentially an American P bass with a new Northwest body, the body was sprayed with nitro paints and reliced accordingly, the back of the neck was very carefully stripped & sanded and treated with tru oil & graphite powder to give that worn/dirty look (I’m really pleased how this came out), it has a gotoh bridge & Kiogon loom. The nut width is 42mm. It has a new set of chromes with around 12hrs of use. There are no gouges or nicks as I personally don’t like that bit of relic’d guitars. It plays beautifully. I didn’t get round to sourcing vintage style knobs before I discovered medium scale basses🤷‍♂️ Obviously the asking price is far less than the build cost (as with most ‘bitsa’ basses) so I think it’s priced fairly considering it pretty much a standard US P bass. Only trade would be a quality medium scale bass with cash available accordingly.
  7. Hummmm probably visual really, give it that ‘dirty grubby’ look😀🤷‍♂️ I’ve seen some custom shop relic fenders and tried to replicate them really (I read up on the graphite powder tip)
  8. Basically an AM P bass with the all important 42mm nut (to me 😀🤷‍♂️) northwestern body, koigen wiring (prob not spelt right but you know who I mean) gotoh bridge. nitro paint (what’s left) satin/worn custom shop style back of the neck with tru oil & graphite powder (really pleased with this). I couldn’t bring myself to put any dings, scratches or nicks in the neck/headstock, or the body really🤷‍♂️ Just some lollipop tuners & knobs to get
  9. Hi, yeh I noticed my spell error, apologies (couldn’t be arsed to edit it🤣🤷‍♂️) the serial no. Is on the neck plate and I’m gunna reproduce the logo in gold (I’m in the print business) but thanks for your kind comments, think I’m well & truly into medium scale now.
  10. Thank you, thank you all for kind comments
  11. It is clear and very noticeable it’s a 2 piece body but the tru oil brings the grain out nice, it was very difficult to get all the blue out🫤
  12. I’ve had short scale basses before but I wanted to try a medium scale so I picked up this early Ibanez roadstar in a hideous torquise blue, stripped it best I could, finished with Tru Oil and added some gold hipshot ultralights to match the brass bridge. It’s really comfortable to play, the 32” scale is better then expected beautifully balanced & light, lovely compromise between 30”/34”. Just need to tidy up the wiring.
  13. Apologies, it’s a Roadster RS721TB, it was a hideous turquoise blue colour. I added some hipshot ultralight tuners, the balance is perfect and very comfortable to play. I wanted to scratch that medium scale itch and it’s excellent.
  14. ‘Ludicrously’ why? It wouldn’t have been last year. Because they’re amazing or because he’s stopped making them? (I honestly don’t think I’d drop this into an already nice stingray bass)🤷‍♂️ Just my opinion
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