thodrik

'Why are [insert name of company who makes expensive basses that look remarkably like a Fender Jazz]'s so expensive?' is a common question. The 'super Fender' is a niche market and there is a high demand for the instruments. Since the companies are generally smaller than say, Fender, the price of the instruments will be pretty high to reflect the work of the small team, or individual who made the bass. Companies like Sadowsky and Fodera also operate out of New York, so the cost of operating the premises are probably pretty high as well. Alleva Coppolo I believe build their instruments to be more similar in feel and sound to vintage Fenders from the 1960s, as opposed to say Nordstrand and Sadowsky who make basses that look like Fenders but have modern high output pickups and EQ systems. After a certain price point, there isn't really 'better' so much as different. It just depends on whether it is the right instrument for you and whether you are willing to buy it.

Fender Precision, valve amp, play loud. Tuning to C sharp standard is optional but helps.

I wouldn't say no to trying one of the Darkglass overdrive units, particularly the B7K.

The only thing that I took away from the video is that I do not have the patience to watch a 30 minute long video blog. That is time I could spend playing bass and improving my technique, or drinking coffee and looking up the latest football news.

I have used the balanced tension 120-50 set for the last few years. Fantastic strings for tuning below standard tuning and they are really reasonably priced. I have used the standard nickelwound 105-45 sets one and off for the last 10 years as well. I prefer the D'addarios to Rotosound and Ernie Ball strings, but I'm not that precious about strings and will try other brands as well.

I tried a customised five string set on a five string, 145 - 50. I ordered them from Newtone strings. I generally don't mix different brands of strings, but I will trying different gauges of strings I am trying out tunings that are in non-standard turning. Drop C for example. I don't really bother anymore as the D'addario balanced tension strings 120-50 serve me well from D standard down drop B. Anything lower than that I would just use a five string in standard tuning.

Tried slap bass on my EB3 a few times. Not terrible but you aren't going to get 'that' Fender type slap sound. The longer scale versions like Rippers and Grabbers would probably be a better bet.

I like him, but he isn't somebody I listen to frequently. I generally don't listen to 'listen to how great [insert individual player of a certain instrument]' type bands. Jaco was a great player and influenced many, including many of the 'noodling away on the back pick up of a jazz bass while wearing a hat' bass players that I love so dearly...

I have had Trace Elliot stuff for years. The V6 is great. I have SMX head as well which is good, but if you are into the natural, gritty valve amp sound without a pedal you are best looking elsewhere, or just buying a pedal and turning off the pre shapes.

Post codes in the Highlands are also to blame for some courier problems. Places north of Inverness can have post codes beginning with 'KW' which leads to couriers thinking that they being asked to deliver to Orkney, when they are actually being asked to deliver an hour's drive north of Inverness. Arranging delivery to non-mainland places like Orkney can be even more tricky. It might be the case that couriers just don't want to deal with the A9, which is a horrible road long overdue for being turned into a dual carriageway.

I have a Sadowsky Metro, but the 'well built, expensive bass with active electronics that looks like a Fender Jazz' is a pretty saturated market. Just try as many as you can and buy the one you like most.

I have been playing a 360 in rehearsal and it is a nice amp. I can't say I have noticed too much difference from playing the 350 to 360 in terms of top end EQ, though I'm not doing much slap and pop stuff so I have not really been pushing it. I have the blue stripe Fafner as well and the Valve Drive. I wouldn't say that '360 + Valve Drive' = the 660 or Fafner sound. I always thought the 350 and 650 sounded pretty similar in terms of EQ structure and were both a bit more user friendly than the Fafner I. The Fafner II just looks a bit over the top in terms of design for me.

[quote name='Adam Wiseman' timestamp='1422475493' post='2673227'] Thank you all for your replies. Thodrick, I think I will give that 120-50 set a go. [/quote] Let me know how it works out. I've been looking at those walnut Rickenbackers for a while now!

D'addario do a balanced tension set of 120-50. That is what I used when tuned to drop C, as in drop D but a whole tone lower on all strings.

[quote name='Wooks79' timestamp='1421835368' post='2665438'] I also wish they had put a effect loop in it like the OTB, so it gave the option to just use it as a poweramp... [/quote] I would have thought that too, better yet an effect loop for both the clean and dirty signals. Essentially though, it then becomes an amp version of the EBS Billy Sheehan pedal. It looks cool and the blend control is a nice feature. I would have liked a separate EQ section for the dirty channel but whatever, it is a decent price.

What gauges are those?

I have a Sadowsky Metro, which I bought after failing to find a Fender Jazz as much as I liked my Fender Precisions. I honestly think that Fenders have been left behind a bit when it comes to active EQs when compared to Lakland, Sadowsky, Nordstrand, Sandberg etc. When it comes to a passive Jazz design, I still think that a good Fender can stand up next to anything. Hell, despite owning one, I have gone off 'expensive Fender clones with fancy on-board preamps.'.

[quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1420741506' post='2652926'] Really glad to see the back of the 3 point bridge...worst piece of bass hardware of all time. [/quote] My opinion as well. The one on my EB3 is bordering on useless. In fact, from a design point of view a lot about my EB3 is pretty rubbish.

Looks like a redesign of the 'Tonal Emphasis' 500 and JJB heads. I am guessing that it is a lightweight version of those amps.

Looks interesting. I wouldn't buy it to be honest since the general spec isn't something I would ever go near, but I have no problem with Fodera, or Ritter's pricing policies or more out there designs. If they have enough demand to the point that they can charge into the thousands, good for them.

I don't suppose its much help in terms of access to a single bass track, but I have recorded a stoner/doom EP and my set up was pretty much a Fender Precision played through a Walkabout at extreme volume. Quite a lot of overdrive was achieved. Very rough recording (just a kick drum microphone on the bass cab, no DI) but hopefully if nothing else it shows that the Walkabout can do dirt. https://khydra.bandcamp.com/album/skycrasher

[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]1. How long have you been playing your instrument?[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Bass Guitar - 16 years, Double Bass - 11 years[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]2. Do you use an electronic tuner? If yes which model?[/font][/color] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]Bass Guitar - Yes, the Boss TU2. [/color][/font] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]3. Do you tune by ear or electronic tuner? [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Bass Guitar - [/font][/color][color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]In band practice, yes. Playing by myself I tune by ear. Double Bass, always by ear.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]4. If by ear how do you go about?[/font][/color] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]I use my ears, listen to the string and turn the tuning pegs with my hands until the string is in tune.[/color][/font] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]5. Are you always 100% happy with your tuning? / if not[/font][/color] Generally yes, though... [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]6. Why are you not happy with your tuning?[/font][/color] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]Ultimately I feel that I should really have a tech that does it for me. [/color][/font] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]7. What disturbs you about the electronic tuner? [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]The Boss models are bloody expensive.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]8. Do you know how to tune by ear?[/font][/color] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]Yes, I don't have perfect pitch, but I can usually get it within a semi tone, which considering I grew up to Hendrix who tuned a half step down, that is close enough. [/color][/font] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]9. What is your preferred tuning method?[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Until I took this questionnaire, the activity of tuning really did not really seem to be something substantial enough for my brain to decide on a preferred method.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]thank you very much for your invaluable support in advance.[/font][/color]

My opinion on Fenders, from £300 second hand Mexican models right up to the Custom Shop models, is that you have to try the actual bass you are thinking about buying. There are absolute gems and absolute dogs at every price point.

You don't see many of them about, especially just the head. I would say about £500 - £700 for the head, and a few hundred more for the combo verson

My Sadowsky Metro has pretty big frets. At least it does compared to my old Precision, which barely has any. It took a bit to get used to if I am honest. I'm not so much sure that the size of the frets matters so much to actual fretwork on the instrument. Essentially I don't think that the size of the frets is a deal breaker for me.