cm261

^ Well yeah, but that's the point isnt it? Like if I had an effect that I liked but that was particularly noisy when bypassed, I could put it aside with an A/B box. Or if I had 2 different distortions/different fuzzes/of the same pedal, that I wanted to feed into the rest of the loop or direct into the amp, so there an A/B box would let me switch between the 2. Unless I'm missing the point here entirely lol...

Well this moosapotamus looks interesting as it would open up a whole world of sinful low-end-eating guitar pedals to me, plus I now know exactly what parts I would need to buy for it, so maybe that! Ordering new stuff would also allow me to get ahold of a permanent enclosure for my mammoth as well without paying postage more times than I need to. Maybe also an A/B or an A/B/Y box as well, since it makes sense to order the parts for multiple pedals at once. I assume that an A/B box switches between 2 peadals and an A/B/Y can switch between 2 and also have both on simulataneously? On top of that I could also order the parts for the Llama while I'm at it. Basically, as long as I'm using prototyping board I'm happy

Ta Steve! Cheers Nick, you're a legend mate. What on earth is a rectifyer (that's what I got when I googled that 1N4001 component)?

Wow that seems a complicated circuit for what it does. I like it though! What are those 'U' components?

I dont understand a word that has been said in like the last 7posts Maybe I won't build this thing lol.... Out of interest, what other things have people here built/what would you suggest building?

Cool cheers, google got me nowhere for some reason, was late I guess, should have just gone to bed Thanks for the Banzai link, exactly what I was looking for

Hey guys, Have searched and failed horribly. Where do you guys get knobs to go on effects pedals? The best I could find was some cheap nasty crap from Hong Kong etc on ebay, none of the other shops that I used for pedal parts seem to stock knobs at all

Paulo hooked me up with some patch cables to rectify my ridiculous '7 pedals and 0 patch cables' situation. Good comms. Cheers mate.

Hah, just emailed you actually Nick. Already sort of on the lookout for the next project, even though this one isn't completely finished, which may well be that llama clone that you showed me the schematic for

Solderless breadboard and multimeter FINALLY arrived today. After prodding at my current circuit with the multimeter for a while I couldn't find a single thing wrong with it. I was expecting to find cold solders all over the shop but I couldn't find a single one. So to hell with that lol, I made the circuit again on the solderless breadboard (having cut the potentiometers off of the old circuit) and it lives! The layout is slightly different than it would be on stripboard, but even accounting for the time it took me to figure it out and double check eveything it only took me a very small fraction of the time to get it together on the solderless board than the stripboard, and it actually worked this time. The solderless board is also small enough to fit into the housing I have (just a temporary plactic one at the moment to get an idea of the size, with holes drilled for the pots), and was very inexpensive anyway, plus the fact that any components going wrong down the line can be swapped out in about 3 seconds flat without any soldering, so that's where the circuit is staying. The only problem that I have is that 3 of the 4 knobs (the pinch knob being the exception) work back to front, i.e. turning anti-clockwise increases the volume etc. I really don't give too much of a damn at this point, but how would I go about sorting this? By swapping over the way round the wires are on the board (effectively turning the pots upside down)? This issue makes me doubly glad that I can just move stuff about on the prototyping board. Will be rehousing the circuit in it's permanent metal box, which will have to be drilled and painted, at some point in the near future, as well as incorporating the footswitch and led into the circuit (they have been omitted so far in order to exclude some variables in the case of the circuit not working). Cheers.

I have a Tech21 XXL Bass edition. Not too expensive and is capable of some brutal distortion

Met up with Shaun to buy an MXR bass octave off of him (which may have originally be alex's?). Can only add to what other people have already said! Top bloke, had a drink, a game of pool, and a chat about some bass-related stuff! All-round very nice chap, who you can be extremely confident in dealing with without any issues whatsoever!!

Still not got the multimeter or the prototyping board, but they must surely come tomorrow.... he says.... Anyways, in response to posts: Deafening people is the least of my worries at the moment to be honest, lol. I MAY have cooked the transistors, since I've never soldered before I wouldnt know, but I highly doubt it, and I have plenty spare anyways. Either way I'll find out when I get the multimeter. The EH logo looks cool I reckon. Ordered a plastic case for mine since I plan on getting the finished product in the smallest housing possible, so I'm using the current one as a tester. Am well aware that radio interference could be an issue with the plastic case. I theoretically have enough to make 2 of these pedals, if someone is in any way interested in the 2nd one, although I'm having more than enough trouble getting the first one to work before I can think about a second, plus I may test one for buffering for use with an active bass. I'm sure there's other stuff that I'm missing, but that's what the edit button is for. Will post back when there is some progress with stuff. Cheers.

Ta very much for the link mate, never heard of that method before. Regarding the transistors, I didn't use sockets so that can't be the problem, though I might have cooked the transistors I spose. Cheers for the advice, much appreciated.

Maybe one in each loop?

Was obviously getting ahead of myself with the active bass issues, since I've managed to completely cock up the build somehow. No idea what's wrong with it, but have ordered a solderless prototyping breadboard and a multimeter so that I can try and sniff out the problem. I know the circuit isn't complicated, I just suck serious ass at this obviously. Still, I'm gonna get this thing sorted and working if it kills me