Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Sibob

Moderator
  • Posts

    8,707
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Sibob

  1. Sibob

    DIY Effects

    [quote name='Johnny Wishbone' timestamp='1473684526' post='3132220'] Superb - keep us posted! How much was the shipping? [/quote] 6.20 euros for registered mail, or 11.00 euros for DHL, I went for the former. Si
  2. Sibob

    DIY Effects

    Guma Antique with blank drilled enclosure on order! Think I'll have someone paint the enclosure for me, will have loads of time before I'm able to build it anyway haha. Si
  3. I just think there's certain combinations of basses/amps/cabs that work and some that don't. There is absolutely no lack of 'heft' (however subjective) from my Precision/Jazz/LMK800/Barefaced rig I felt there was a distinct lack of 'heft' (however subjective) when I used to run my old Jazz or Warwick into an Ashdown ABMII 500 into a 4x8 & 1x15 Ashdown Mini rig.....go figure Si
  4. I had an 'A' series Japanese Precision around 6 years ago and it was really very good. Based on it's appointments (and confirmed by research over at 21Frets.com) it was an SQ spec bass, meaning that nothing had really changed since the SQ changes from JV). Anyway, was absolutely worth the £350 equivalent that it accounted for in a trade deal. Sold it on but wish I still had it to be honest, fortunately I know who has it and have first dibs if he sells haha. I've just purchased a JV Jazz from Higgie and that is brilliant, much more into it than the 2003 USA Jazz I had for a few years, and definitely better than the '73 Jazz I had. As has been mentioned, in todays money, JVs would probably go for about £500 new, and so once you factor in collectability and sentimentality (mine is '83, YOB), then I think the current prices are pretty bang on. I had a new Classic Vibe jazz when they were first released, and it was great, not as good as the JV I have now, but really good for the money. As has been mentioned, if you really MUST have a JV, they're great. There's a really nice black/rosewood Jazz on here for a good enough price. But if you're not fussed about it being 'JV', but do want an 80s Japanese Fender, definitely check out the SQ, E & A series basses Si
  5. Getting back to the o/p, just curious as to why the amp is the first thing you believe to be at fault? As has been mentioned, perhaps it's the cabs?! perhaps it's the bass?! The other tell is that you say "[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][b]but at times,[/b] it becomes impossible to dial in a sound with punch...", suggesting that at other times, it sounds fine?!......so perhaps it's the room the gig is in that sounds bad?! [/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Other things to consider, who are you playing with?! If there are two guitarists who are EQ [/font][/color][font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]poorly in relation to you, plus a keyboard player playing low notes, all bad times.[/color][/font] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]​It might well be the amp, but seems to be that there are a lot of variables here?![/color][/font] [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]Si[/color][/font]
  6. Merged threads and had a tdy up. As you were
  7. Three, and one of them is strung with flats, so it means I only have two basses to keep up with restringing. Bliss lol Si
  8. For me, the best pitch up/down stuff is on the Line6 M series pedals. I pretty much have an M5 just for the +1 octave lol. Then I'd say the new bass whammy, but it's huge and the harmony stuff was useless for me. Then Pog (micro or nano) is probably the easiest choice (i.e. It's small), but only does +1 octave. Si
  9. Sibob

    DIY Effects

    I'm certainly not complaining as I'm still gigging a lot, but because I would solder in the house, can't really do it at the mo Still, might pick up an Antique Si
  10. Sibob

    DIY Effects

    Yeah the Guma Antique is very tempting, just not doing much soldering at the moment due to the 5month boy lol. Might just purchase for a rainy day lol Si
  11. I was taking a look on the Sims site, but couldn't find my way to any kind of accessories listings for sale?! Si
  12. I should probably also say that it's got to retrofit to a Fender with no extra drilling.....which I don't think the Schaller does?! Plus it's ugly as sin lol Si
  13. I think I'm edging towards giving the Kickass a try, it seems nice and smooth (no spikey bits for palm muting), and very adjustable, moreso than the otherwise very well thought of Badass. Also not weird seeing them on a Fender. Seems like a no brainer?! Si
  14. The current trio dream-team: L-R 1983 Squier JV Jazz 1971 Fender Precision Xotic XJ-1T Lightweight 5 [IMG]http://i64.tinypic.com/2u8ktoh.jpg[/IMG] Si
  15. 2016s current lineup: L-R 1983 Squier JV Jazz 1971 Fender Precision 2016 Xotic XJ-1T 'Lightweight' 5 [IMG]http://i65.tinypic.com/hwwap2.jpg[/IMG] Si
  16. I'm looking to replace the bridge on my JV Jazz, has anyone had experience of all three of the above? Thoughts when comparing them all? Pros/cons etc? I'm primarily a fingerstyle player who often plays Palm-muted. I have a B-style on my Xotic and its fine, should I go for that, or is something like the Kickass a genuine step up? Cheers Si
  17. Sold Shemeck my Maruszczyk Jake. Very pleasant and helpful when organising the meetup, Recommended Cheers and enjoy the bass Si
  18. Line6 are not known for their footswitches. I believe the M series is the same as the DL-4 in that the 'switch' is just a plunger into a small tactile switch on the PCB, utter crap. These can be desoldered and then replaced with a mechanical momentary DPDT momentary switch. But that mod is not for the feint hearted. I did 2 on my DL-4 and never again, had Martin at Owens Electronics mod the other two. So much more reliable now though. Si
  19. [quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1471969585' post='3117347'] Here's my 3p worth (see what I did there?): Left - 1973 in Natural Ash, all original except the brass control knobs Centre - CIJ '57 RI in Candy Apple Red with CS '62 pickup (KiOgon loom incoming) Right - AVRI '63 RI in Faded Sonic Blue with Hipshot Xtender It's fair to say I'm fond of Precisions... [/quote] Yup, lovely collection, but all about that Sonic Blue AVRI Si
  20. [quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1472889922' post='3125026'] Haha, the Lakin headstock is not great, but better than AC, Lull or Nordstrand ones. IMO. I also have a slight beef with the Lakland oval bridge, but could let it slide if I had a US Decade - lovely basses! [/quote] Absolutely don't agree with this, the Lakin is the worst of the bunch for me! Eugh Si
  21. [quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1472768089' post='3124185'] Well, got quite a long way through discussions - I think he might have got fed up with me asking now :/ Trouble is everything you say the price goes up and the more you realise you want. But if I am going to spend that much on a bass it has to be perfect. Thats my only real concern, without trying one, if its not perfect, that is a large amount of money down the tubes. I mean I am sure it will be technically perfect, but if it has some clunky neck I can't get on with, then you do lose a lot. Still, damn gorgeous looking things, and if he gets back to me I think I am going to end up with something quite soon! [/quote] So specify the neck dimensions, they can work to exact measurements! Si
  22. For me, if you're just looking for suggestions on basses that look and sound like jazz basses, I would be looking at Xotic, Lull, Sadowsky, Lakland.....in that order of (my) preference. I'm having a particularly fun time with my Xotic XJ-1T 'Lightweight' 5er. If you want something that sounds like a jazz, but doesn't necessarily LOOK like a jazz, well then your options grow exponentially! Si
  23. [quote name='Woodinblack' timestamp='1472683667' post='3123354'] Sorry to be [b][i]that guy[/i][/b], but I was seriously confused what you were doing in your job that meant you had to explain a difference of 0.3 meters per second, and had to read it several times until I realised you didn't mean m/s and actually meant ms (as in millisecond) I know it should have been obvious in context what you meant but in my job I deal with both times and distances every hour of the day, so couldn't get my head round it! [/quote] No you're completely right, it's a really bad habit that I'm in, which is off as it actually takes more effort lol Si
  24. It's commonly thought that most of us can't hear under 10m/s, and highly unlikely to physically register anything under 5m/s. In my job I've had people arguing the toss over two devices reporting a difference of 0.3m/s and I really have to stop short of telling them where to go. Bear in mind that you're likely hearing a latency of around 2m/s when playing an acoustic upright piano, considering the hammer mechanism and the time it takes the sound to travel from the string to your ear. Of course, that analogue latency can perhaps start to build up marginally if you're adding a number of digital pedals maybe. Generally speaking the digital conversion found on audio interfaces will be <1m/s each way, as you decrease the size and/or quality of the chip (as you might need to do for a pedal), less is possible. That said, some pedals will come with excellent conversion technology, for example I can't imagine Strymon spash out on Sharc DSP on their Big Sky and then skimp on the conversion. Si
×
×
  • Create New...