Sibob

Ryan @ Fuzzrocious is seriously one of the good guys, so glad this is looking like it will blow up for him. MXR make great stuff, with a great staff behind them, hopefully this will also put a load of people onto Fuzzrocious. Si

Can I just add though, all my basses sound amazing on their own through the 3Leaf Enabler headphone amp! P-bass included (think mine came 3rd or 4th in the blind test ). Fantastic pedal that Enabler! Si

Yup, unless you plan on having a successful music career playing through a headphone amp Into your headphones, I'd suggest you don't have a problem . Si

Love the idea, and the angle is cool, but I'd have to be convinced about the plastic lol. Imagine hitting a pedal and crunching through the board Could be great if it's strong though! Si

At this point I wouldn't worry about send/return, I would say that 99% of what you read about in the effects forum will be 'inline', meaning that you bass goes into your pedalboard, and the pedalboard output goes to your amp input. True bypass: Essentially this is how the signal travels through the pedal when it is 'off'. A true bypass pedal, when off, travels straight from the input to the output, it doesn't touch the circuitry. The opposite, referred to as a buffered pedal (all Boss, Digitech, most EHX & some boutique), the signal will still travel through some elements of the circuitry even when off. That's not to say you hear the effect when the pedal is 'off', just that the 'clean' signal still flows through some circuitry. There are pros and cons for both, which is a hold different kettle of beans. As an example, your Boss ODB-3 is buffered (not true bypass), your Wren & Cuff is true bypass. With regards to what you should use pedal wise, I'd say keep it super simple to start with. If you have no songs etc, go in with no pedals, then when you have something to work with, you can decide what colours to add to your tone. If you know it's rock, maybe take the Hartke for some overdrive/grind, if you know it's chilled and ambient, take the delay. But further than that, go simple and develop the sound later. Si

[quote name='TKenrick' timestamp='1423844361' post='2689656'] On listening to it, my ears hear the key change at the first chord of the bridge. You could, however, view the bridge section in terms of the key of E major - the D chord would be labelled 'b7 major' (rather than #6) which is a really common non-diatonic chord that crops up in a bunch of pop, rock and soul tunes. All of the bridge chords can be analysed in terms of either E major or A major, so for me the debate as to exactly where the key change happens is an aural one. [/quote] Cheers bud, I'd be inclined to agree with you, the aural change for me happens at the D, but I also noticed the compatibility between the chords used in the bridge between the two keys, hence wondering about if there was a definitive 'rule' on it Thanks for the input, especially about the b7major Si

The notes on your bass are the same as what notes the guitars have, regardless of tuning, they'll simply appear at different locations if one is detuned and the other isn't. It's quite possible for you to play in standard tuning instead of drop C# like the guitars, but when the guitars are playing a low C# on their open lowest string, instead of you mirroring that, you'd need to play the C# on the 4th fret of your A string (or whichever position of the neck you choose). The reason why most bass players will mirror the tuning of the guitars in this instance (if not playing a 5 string) is so they can get the low note equivalent of what the guitars are playing, maintaing the octave spreads between the bass and guitars. As guitars become more and more detuned, they obviously approach the basses sonic territory, no-one ever got excited about a bass player who is always playing in the same register as the guitar player I spent years playing in C Standard (C, F, Bb, Eb) because both guitarists were tuned to that, not because I couldn't play the songs in standard tuning, but because I wanted the low C note on my 4 string, tuning the rest of the strings down simply meant I was still tuned in 4ths (intervals between strings). Si

I've been re-going through Son Of A Preacher and a question struck me. When does the actual key change occur? I mean technically..... When the middle section moves to the D, is this considered to be #6 chord in the key of E and the 'key change' is simply when the A is hit for the next verse? Or is the D considered the key change and the bridge simply starts on the 5th chord in the key of A? Thanks Si

I used just a Compact for a while, and it was great, but adding a Midget to the setup was eye (ear?) opening. My Midget doesn't have a tweeter (eugh) and has allll the highs I could ever want Si

I really don't like working with 1590a enclosures, I've done a few true bypass loopers and buffers in them and thats about as much as I'd want to do. Checkout some of the MadBean & DIY pedal forums, some amazing work on there, one guy did a Klon clone in a 1590a, ridiculous: http://imagizer.imageshack.us/a/img842/8905/metadriverguts.jpg Si

[quote name='ratman' timestamp='1423222290' post='2682336'] The 66 is one very versatile pedal. [/quote] That's why it hasn't left my board since we developed it Glad people are still loving the idea of it. Si

Definitely get rid of the Greem Mile, it might be 'ok' on guitar, but sounds horrible on bass!! Get an Xotic Bass BB Pre or a Solidgold Beta or a Fuzzrocious Demon.....anything other than a Mooer guitar pedal lol Si

[quote name='Patchbass' timestamp='1423074945' post='2680414'] Ah yeah it doesn't really look like it's worth it now with the pointless backward jacks and that, maybe just save for the woolly mammoth [/quote] Just buy a Woolly Mammoth kit and build it yourself, probably set you back £35 or so plus your time. Si

It's an ongoing quest!! I own the BB Pre, the Beta, a COG Knightfall (sightly different to the Darklighter) and another contender I'll throw into the ring is the Fuzzrocious Dark Driving and Demon. "How do all these sound on bass" I hear you ask, will good job I did a brief A/B of a few of them huh: [url="https://soundcloud.com/simonpoulton/sets/bass-overdrive-shootout"]https://soundcloud.c...rdrive-shootout[/url] (click through to each file to read a full rundown of pedal order etc) Here's my video of the Knightfall 66: [url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv0oqDxP6_I"]https://www.youtube....h?v=Mv0oqDxP6_I[/url] Obviously some settings are more saturated than you want, but might help Si

I like having a load of stalls and artists playing etc, but I largely go to catch up with a load of nice people at the same time Si

[quote name='ColinB' timestamp='1423060468' post='2680146'] Thanks Si. I'll look into those. I've built my LPB-1 in a 1590A box so there's very little room to do anything. [/quote] Ah yeah, you're not going to fit anything else in that bad-boy Si

Nice to see Ashdown are exhibiting at the LBGS, I imagine that will be the ideal time to have a look and a listen and form an opinion. Si

[quote name='ColinB' timestamp='1423037266' post='2679743'] oooo - could you tell me what an LED anti-pop circuit is please. I've got pop-problems with my LPB-1 boost clone and I've done the usual 1M to the board input, but still getting probs. Thanks. I'm waiting for my Madbean Afterlife Compressor PCB as I write! [/quote] http://www.muzique.com/lab/led.htm I essentially use the second variant of the circuit. You can put together a vero board, or I'm just submitting a little PCB to a prototyper to put your LEDs into. As mentioned at the bottom of the article, not always an LED issue, could just be a very high gain circuit, and it actually mentions the LPB-1 :-P Si

Finished a Rat clone tonight for my girlfriends pedalboard: [IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/2z57kn4.jpg[/IMG] Madbeans PCB, going to drop an LED anti-pop circuit into it tomorrow, try and make the switch a little quieter! Graphics are stenciled by me. Si