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crazycloud

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Everything posted by crazycloud

  1. No, I said overexcursion causes damaged cones and that is extremely unlikely in a sealed cab due to the air spring in the cab. Overexcursion is a problem in ported cabs with signal below tune, because below tune the cab effectively has no control over the cone. Come back when you actually understand the subject.
  2. Abuse, maybe stupidity. I have no idea of the specific circumstances of a 3rd hand report of damage. How come my cab doesn't have damaged drivers with B0 tuned instruments and no HPF, even when run hard?
  3. I'm not new to designing speakers and have been doing so since the early 80s when studying EE at Uni. Because people claim something doesn't mean it's true and most musos have no idea of how stuff actually works. So because you say 30Hz damaged your drivers, doesn't mean it's true. I fixed so much MI and PA gear over the decades where it was claimed a certain event caused a fault and it cannot physically have happened. I'd need specifics to believe it as I have a couple of old rigs that have no issues being played very hard with my 5s and 6sl this includes a 2x10 that is basically half of a 4x10 using Ampeg drivers I got from a cab that got partially destroyed in a Qld flood some years back. Also note, I was quite specific about the different issues between sealed and ported cabs. I've also been reading TB a long time and don't recall this being an issue and certainly not lately.
  4. The Thumpinator is a 6th order 25Hz filter based upon the data on their website, so it's having very little effect an octave above. Cut-off frequency: ~25Hz Slope: 36 dB/oct No 4 string bass guitars tuned E-G that I've ever seen will reproduce a fundamental at the same level as a 2H as the scale length is too short to support it. Move down to B0 and the fundamental is even less significant. Most of the tonality you hear this low is the 2H and up in the lower sections of the instrument. When I ran my PA, one I designed and built, there was a 40Hz hard HPF to limit over excursion in the ported subs, to stop wasting power and to stop spurious rattles on suspended stages. Sometimes I set it higher, but I don't ever recall setting it lower, especially as all my subs were tuned to about 40Hz for max efficiency in the range I wanted to use them in. I'm not buying that cones were destroyed because of B0 being played through them, especially if the cab is sealed. The air spring of the enclosure will prevent this. SVTs and similar sealed 4x10 and 8x10 are sealed and roll off at approx 60Hz - just look at Ampeg's own website: Frequency Response (-3dB): 58Hz-5kHz Ported enclosures may have been an issue, as all ported enclosures become uncontrolled below tune and excursion rises dramatically.
  5. Another in this class that should be considered is the OLP MM5. Basically an Asian made (no idea where) Musicman Silhouette for a fraction of the cost. I had one and foolishly sold it (~100 quid) on a whim in about '07 and haven't seen another since. 29 5/8 scale and passive but otherwise sort of feels like the SRC6, accounting for 15y of shoddy memory. I'd have this again over any Bass VI style with a trem. It sounded good as I recall. Same again with a maple board (purely aesthetics) would be luvverly. PS: Not mine, image from a completed Reverb sale.
  6. My original reply was about there being no SRC6 in the tags list, being all drama queen about it in fun, then realising my mistake and deleting. WRT logos, I'm the same. I hate products with the brand all over it like I'm a free billboard, unless I think that product is particularly awesome, which is very rare. Looking forward to a few weeks from now when I get some time post move to set up mine again with the Kaliums I want (means drilling the bridge slightly) and fitting the EMGs, probably a J/DC set. I mainly fingerpick on it like a guitar and they're just such lovely little instruments and fun to play. There's a guitar teacher literally a few houses from my new place and I'm getting lessons to improve my playing on this; apart from some campfire strumming I haven't really improved my guitar skills since I was a teen and a decent player.
  7. I have an SRC6 and use it to noodle on and to play with some friends who are basically acoustic. I think it complements better than more traditional basses. PS: I bollocks up with my earlier comment. Reading on my phone means I miss things sometimes.
  8. Then it would have had to have been shaved thinner and the radius adjusted to fit. Fenders have a standard neck pocket depth so adding to the total thickness of the neck would have meant something needed to be adjusted or the geometry of the bass would be off.
  9. You really can't go wrong with any of the Ibanez SR series or the Yamaha RBXs, they're both good basses. Which one felt better in your hands? That's the important question. Either are gigable, both are well made and they will last a long time. Take Ed's advice and get new strings on either and learn how to set it up how you prefer. Plenty of good YT videos on this subject and it's good knowledge to have.
  10. I've had the Hohner and several other headless, and technically still own an RB850 as I lent it to a family member and they're great basses. Sounds like the person at the store you rang was a twit, or a similar word with a different vowel. 'Buy a Fender' is the lazy low IQ way of looking at the purchase question. Depending on her physical stature she might find them physically cumbersome, same with an Ibanez BTB, but the Ibanez SRs are the most comfortable full bodies basses I've ever played. SRs are far more consistent in the neck shape and body than many other brands, so if she likes one of these, a 10yo S/H one will feel more or less the same and you can get a higher model for the same $. I'm also a fan of the newer 3 and 4 series as I like the Powerspan pickups; I have a 4 and a 5 with them. Just ensure the basses work fine, ie trussrod is OK etc if buying secondhand.
  11. Hi Dood, What bass is that?
  12. Congrats, I hope you like it. Is it the 2 piece bridge and tailpiece a la Warwick?
  13. Any of the Soundgear 6s. They vary a lot in spec over the years and model tiers, but they all feel about the same. The Cort A6s are nice but the electronics are a bit meh. Not horrible just nothing special. The older ones I've tried are fine.
  14. I wouldn't count on it. It was a Workshop line instrument and as such were made in limited runs, not continuous production according to the distributor here. From guys on the various forums, I only know of a few others apart from mine, and it won't be going anywhere soon. The probability is that it won't be reintroduced anytime soon, so you might have to start saving for a S/H one, or get a custom made. Changing the PUs to proper EMG DCs makes a nice improvement.
  15. Why do any basses have them? I've never needed or wanted one. Ditto for learning correct floating thumb.
  16. Headless 6 string neckthrough Ibanez SR, with QTuners and my preamp. Not sure what woods, but they'd be pretty and understated and chosen for appearance as I think the whole tonewood thing is a crock. That's my thinking today anyway.
  17. If you knew what you were looking at, dropping the neck off and looking at the (usually) unfinished wood in the pocket would let you identify it. At this price point, it's not Mac Ebony. Go price some and you'll know why.
  18. If you look at the AVRs out there for HT, most are not designed by the company with the name on the front (until you get to the Trinnov end of things) for this reason in part. The other is the myriad licenses involved so small specialist companies design them then tweak for the specific manufacturer's specs. I agree. Same with a PC. Does anyone try to fix the average sub board in one, or just replace it out? Unless it's really special, no. This saddens me in some ways as I've designed and repaired a lot of gear and I hate it going into the recycle bin. My HB 800B is going to be my small/medium rig amp for the foreseeable future, and I have a Warwick Gnome for the small coffee house rig, but as it's so small and light it's worth throwing it into the car as an emergency spare, something not practical or cost efficient with a lot of old SS heads, and certainly not tube ones.
  19. If it was properly Wal like, you'd not be getting it for 3 more years... Came out beautiful. Have lots of fun with it. PS: I'd probably ditch the gold bridges too, but it's not like I couldn't live with it as is.
  20. Bass VI types are generally the same as a guitar EADGBE, an octave lower. Baritones vary a bit more but the two most common I've encountered have been BEADF#B, or ADGCEA depending on scale, string gauge and what you're playing. But there are others.
  21. I agree and I don't think it will last long. So buy one on run out, put it in the closet and reap the huge rewards in 10y when people start wishing they were available again. I mean, look what happened to T40 prices, right?
  22. Guitar pickups work fine in basses, just avoid the really hot overwound types. Musiclily and Wilkinson have some twin blades wound around 8-10k that sound fine and are not expensive at all. Both on amazon and epay and Musiclily sell both direct. Another not expensive but name brand would be a Wilde (Bill Lawrence) L45S.
  23. I like the resin loaded burl tops. Looks great here. Hope it's as awesome for you once you're playing it.
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