Muzz

In that case, I'll have two...

Ooooo, that sounds like it'll be affordable... I'd still like a look, tho...

I think I'll try applying some overtension to the neck and leave it for a while to see if that pulls it back - it might work, it might not.

My ABZ4 has killed off my bass GAS for a long while now, hopefully for good. Fantastic playability, the 36.25" E is a joy, it weighs nowt (7lbs 5oz), I've just put a P-Tone in it, and it sounds even better. Killer bass.

Cheers for that, though the bow on mine is the opposite of the one he's dealing with - I might have to get brutal in the shed with it...

Ok, so I've got a really nice Lakland neck, but it's got a back-bow which I'm struggling with. The Big Plan is to make it into a Fenderbird, but first I need to deal with the bow. I've fixed it onto a piece of wood, together with a bridge and strung it up, but even with the the rod slackened off completely, the bow is just about gone with a set of strings tuned up (to F# - B - E - A) to increase the tension. At normal tuning and tension, with the truss rod loose, the strings don't pull the neck even straight, let alone produce any relief. Does anyone know of anything else I can do to get the bow out of it? Can it be rebuilt? It'd be a shame to write it off, because it really is a nice neck. Cheers, Muzz

I should add that I've never had any of the amps above half (probably nearer a third) on the master volume, and my basses are passives. I only go through the PA if the drummer does.

Another Schroeder user here (not the same cab -1515L - but there's a family tendency), and I've never had volume issues with any of the heads I've used, which include a LMIII, RH450, Ashdown Spyder, Streamliner 900, SVT7, and a Mesa M-Pulse 360. Can't help but think there's either some thing wrong with your rig, or you're unbelievably loud. Do you use ear protection? You really should. When we set up, we do it a bit like studio practice: once the drummer's good to go, he and I play through a few bars to get our levels right and possibly EQ for the room, then the guitars and keys and then vocals set their levels to that WITHOUT having us turn up. It prevents the guitards setting the bar far too high (loud) and keeps the volume wars under control. As has been said before, make sure the guitards have their cabs pointing at their heads, that normally keeps them happy without everyone else suffering.

I moved from steel to nickels a good while ago, to get away from too much zing. I've tried a lot, best ones so far have been DR Nickel Low Riders, they settle in really nicely, and the set on my P are still great after more than a year. D'Addario Nickels are much cheaper and still good, but my current testers are La Bella Slappers (I don't slap) on my Dingwall, which are good so far (only a week in), but also not cheap. Never had any skin issues with Nickels in years of use. I guess if you have an allergy there might be problems, but otherwise, no.

One of the function/ covers bands I play in has a setlist of 80 or so songs which, if it's a 'big payer' like wedding or birthday, then the payer can choose what they want. We played an Irish wedding the other week, and were asked for 'some Trad Irish', so we added The Fields of Athenry, Rare Old Mountain Dew and a few others. The punters loved it, and we got more bookings on the night. Some of the later lists are on our list, and there's no escaping the fact that punters, after a few beers, want to hear Sex On Fire and Mr Brightside. We try and include popular stuff which the majority of the audience will know, but maybe don't hear every week.

Spent twenty-odd years in originals bands, with the odd 'versioned' cover thrown in, then after a break came back into an originals band. Now play in the originals band, and in a couple of covers/functions band. The originals band also play some covers, mostly to get paying gigs.

Yep, I've got one at the mo, and it's a fantastic bass (I don't like the color of mine, but hey) but worth hundreds less than it should be, so I'm hanging onto it.

I bought a LMIII in the States and did the jumper flip. Had the amp for a couple of years after that, was absolutely fine. If you want to know how to do it (and it's easy), PM me.

As a matter of interest, isn't this the 550 Spyder in a different form factor/casing? The specs look very similar, as does the EQ, and the description of the switches being very interactive with each other does, too. Just wondering, I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will be along to confirm (or not) shortly

I use my 900 with a Schroeder 1515L, 39lbs of 2x15 loveliness, and it's a good match. The Schroeders are low-mid biased, which is a nice match.