Muzz

I've got Hipshots on more or less everything, and find the low D is as low as I need to go - can't recall ever needing those bottom notes a 5 would offer. I like a slim neck, too, so that rules virtually all 5s out (with the exception of a BB5000 or SR505). Still YMMV.

I think there's something missing from this discussion - where is VibratingGString? He must be on holiday still... Personally, I think there's a list of factors which influence amplified tone, in descending order: Pickups/placement EQ Strings Wood/Construction Now we can all have a nice big row about the relative proportions of the above - I'm going for 50/25/20/5. I'm prepared to negotiate on the first three...

I think it's horses for courses in lots of ways - I use the 3-sets-for-15-quid Hartkes on my Fortress, because they suit the bass down to the ground, but I've just put a set of Elixirs on my Shuker, and they're surprisingly good - a real improvement. I've got DR Sunbeams on my FrankenP, and they suit that very well (and have mellowed really nicely), and my Fenderbird has D'Addarios, which are nice. I've been through lots of different strings on different basses, and there''s only a few which I universally don't like (Rotos, Elites and Warwick Reds), and a couple which I'd use more if they were cheaper (the DRs - I'd have them on my passives like the FrankenPs and Fenderbird). Snake Oil is only effective if you're of a mind to accept it - and IME a bit of open-minded trial and error usually proves the thing one way or another. Never had an unbalanced set or dead string, either.

Phone Steve who works out of PMT in Salford. Top geezer, very good work and very reasonable. I think his site is theguitarrepairworkshop.com or somesuch. He's done some great work for me, including a really outstanding neck rout for my Fenderbird. He's on 0161 877 4962.

Fair enough - this [i]is [/i]a 38lb 2x15 we're talking about, though.

[quote name='Dave Vader' timestamp='1326114036' post='1492401'] I was trying to get away from the seperate amp cab thing, as it requires a box of leads, and thus another hand... (I know, it's unbelievable isn't it?) [/quote] I've got one of those laptop-friendly rucksacks - RH450 slotted into the laptop bit, all the leads, screwdrivers, spare strings, etc in the other bit. That on the back, bass in one hand, 800w 2x15 cab in the other. I wouldn't run a marathon like that, but it's about 50lb plus the bass total, so I'm good from the car to the venue in one go.

I managed 48 seconds. Self-indulgent crap.

Schaller 3D: there's lateral adjustment available for pup pole/string lineup issues, and it's more comfortable if you rest the heel of your hand on it to play.

[quote name='simon1964' timestamp='1325766772' post='1487245'] I'd go with this. Listen to Hanging Around by the Stranglers here: [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3nXa4XtNm8[/media]. When the bass comes in at 13 seconds - that's what I would call an aggressive bass tone . [/quote] A seismic moment in my bassplaying career was hearing this for the first time - I couldn't believe my ears. Just the best bass sound, ever.

Looking forward to getting a body made for the luvverly Lakland neck I've just got my hands on. It'll be an Uber-NotFenderbird, with Nordy Big Splits, Hipshot Ultralights and Supertone. Pics as and when. I'm also on the lookout for a really nice bass, but I've no idea what that might be.

I routinely replace the BBOT bridge with a Schaller 3D, not for any huge sound difference (there isn't any, and I'm fairly doubtful about the sustain thing, as well), but because if you play with the heel of your hand on the bridge a lot like I do, the Schaller is simply a more comfortable shape. Plus, I've found the lateral adjustment useful in the past for correcting any slight pole/string misalignment, something you can't really do on a BBOT. Never been particularly keen on Badasses, tbh - they seem like an awful lot of money for what you get. I wouldn't go back to a straight P after using PJs, (they're still a P, just with more options), but I've some GAS at the mo for a double-P, just to hear what they sound like.

The Elixir Nanoweb coated strings are probably the smoothest and slickest you'll find. Just fitted a set to my Shuker, and I'm really liking them. Not cheap, but they have a long life. If you're a hard pick player I've seen the coating wear off the bottom ends: I'm a medium pick player, but I'm giving it a go anyway.

I've got a bass with a maple neck and board, and another with a wenge neck and board. They feel and play very differently. They both have the same pickups and EQ. Amplified, they sound 95% the same.

I can only surmise they made about a zillion too many at some point, and now they've got an entire warehouse stocked full of the things they need to shift. No other explanation makes sense. I had one on my Epi T-bird when I bought it, and it was poor for a £200 bass, let alone one 10x that price.

Saw one in PMT t'other day, and tho I had pointy basses back in the day (and love a T-bird), these do not look like £2k+ of bass. Initially thought it was a new Epi, and I was so underwhelmed I couldn't be arsed to get it down and try it.

Just a line to say Lorenzo's a top bloke and a pleasure to transact with. Anyone who might be hesitant dealing with someone outside of the UK can rest assured he's as good as anyone I've encountered on Basschat. Cheers!

I've fitted two MM necks to cheap basses, and I think they're stonking value. Said it before, but I sold both my US Precisions on the strength of the basses once I'd finished upgrading them. One's better than the other in terms of fret finish, but both are waaaaaay better than a Hondo!

Stick with the pick - I loved both Ps, but my favourite is the PJ. I noticed the up/downstrokes thing, too - were you aware you were doing that, or do the Jazz and the Warwick bring that out unconsciously? I had to think carefully whether it's something I might do. I don't think so...