FuNkShUi

Here's the Singlecut Andy made me. It's my dream bass, and now the only one i gig with. Quality of craftmanship is astounding. Its very light at 7Llbs 8, and the tonal options are everything i could need. Here's my full thoughts on it, with a simple video so you can get an idea of it's sounds: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/284440-the-ajr-custom-bass-a-hobbyists-build/"]http://basschat.co.u...obbyists-build/[/url] Here's the original build thread: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/271204-single-cut-camphor-and-alder-pj/"]http://basschat.co.u...r-and-alder-pj/[/url] Something i haven't posted on here, mostly because i wasn't sure if i could, so mods take this out if you need to..... Andys work has been featured as bass of the week here: [url="http://www.notreble.com/buzz/2016/06/20/bass-of-the-week-ajr-guitars-singlecut-bass/"]http://www.notreble....singlecut-bass/[/url] Pretty freakin cool!! Well done mate, thoroughly deserved recognition, putting you alongside some other great luthiers!

Nice one Andy. Yeh I've finished with all my stripping now, but you seem to have made a far better job of it! No real surprise there I was planning on starting my first base coat tonight, but something has come up, so hopefully get something done tomorrow. Cracking job on this one, as always. I love the colour. Vibrant!

[quote name='scrumpymike' timestamp='1478969489' post='3173058'] Holes punched thru polystyrene will tend to close up afterwards - hot pin maybe? [/quote] I'll give it a go! Thanks. Too busy to do anything this weekend, maybe get something done through this coming week

[quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1478796389' post='3171727'] Hey Kert, you deleted all the earlier pics already (or at least, I can't see them) And I wanted to do a before & after comparison Keep going with this project matey - you'll be gigging with this bass, and wearing matching sparkly short trousers before you know it [/quote] That's really weird. Hadn't deleted them, and they were still on my IMGUR profile? They should be back on the first post now. Thanks for making me aware of it Marc. Already bought the sparkly trousers. Years ago

[quote name='Norris' timestamp='1478776972' post='3171517'] Maybe an old fashioned tea strainer might have large enough holes? Watching with interest... [/quote] Yeh that could work. In all honesty the cup method will work, just need a thicker pin!! I'm going to have a go at a few different methods, hopefully this weekend

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1478775313' post='3171493'] I know it may be against the DIY ethos... but have you tried sourcing a cheap airbrush (probably one of those aerosol powered ones) and flake attachment? [/quote] I did look at it, but thought i'd stick with the DIY route, mainly to see how i could do, with as little costs as possible.

Nice work. Looks better i reckon!

Last night i had a quick hour between coming in from work and having to go out again. So i decided on doing a test sample. First thing to do was get the flake together, to mix it up. Now i nearly forgot to take a picture of them before mixing, but i got this .... It's purple, emerald green and clear iridescent metal flake. First things first. If you do this, don't mix it on your kitchen table. Lots of stuff gets sparkly, quite quickly too. Here's how it looks mixed I am happy. It's pretty much what i expected to be honest. Now to my homemade device that ensures equal spread of metallic flake over a primed surface.... Yes, a polystyrene cup with pin holes. Before my wife came home, i took it all outside. My plan was to spoon a little of the flake into the cup and shake it on to try ensure a even "spread" Two issues.....the cup didn't work because the pin holes weren't big enough. If i was still there now, out of the teaspoons worth of flake, 80% would still be in the cup. Second issue, i need to get a tray or catching device for when i do this properly. My thoughts were, doing it inside would mean there'd be no wind to blow the flake about the place. That didn't matter. It still pretty much went wherever it pleased. Anyway, here is what a poorly executed sample looks like I do actually like the finish colour. But i will do a few more experiments on a method of flake distribution!

The Big Twin is a beast. The more power you throw at it the better it sounds IMO Glad it's working out for you Lozz

Keep it relatively simple. The bass line in that song holds down the groove. I don't know how much theory you know, so put in simple terms, stick to the A and B on the D string and the D and E on the G string, try to link some of the notes through them. Don't go looking to make it complicated though, there's just no need IMO

I think for your situation, starting a band and being clear from the start you're the MD might be the way to go. Nothing wrong with not wanting to be in a band at all, but when it all comes together and it's a great feeling.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1478519230' post='3169529'] Depends on how good your subs are... but probably yes - but it depends if you can specify at which point the HPF is set. For an analogue desk with a fixed HPF of say 100hz... well, that isn't going to help your kick drum... but if you can HPF your kick at say 40-50hz, given your chest thumping fundamental happens at about 65Hz, you'll suddenly start tightening up your subs and making them more efficient. [/quote] Thank you!

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1478082205' post='3166552'] Glad to help. That 905 should be a good match for those tops - so it defo sounds like a HPF issue to me. You never said what instrument you are putting through your PA - if you haven't put any HPF on your bass, along with compression, things will sound pretty swampy in the lows. [/quote] Sorry to hijack this thread a little, but do you recommend putting a HPF on everything? We run vocals,keys,sax,drums and bass through our PA. Should we put a HPF on all of them?

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478337263' post='3168459'] Hi, Kert You're doing well It's less critical when you are using primer (that usually covers pretty much anything), but the general rule of thumb is to try to get down to bare clean wood so it's well worth the effort with your coarser sandpaper. Certainly if this was going to be stained or oiled it is critical, but previous coating residue can react also with other finishes too. When you've sanded it down through the finer grades to, say, 250, dust it down (vacuuming it is best) and look closely for any dips or dings - they will still show through even multiple coats of primer and finish. The more aberrations you can sand out or fill and sand back at this stage, the better will be the final finish [/quote] Thanks Andy. Appreciate the advice, as always. Had a hectic weekend, so didn't get much done, will crack on with it this coming week

Where do you live? Maybe a nice BC'er can offer you a go on their equipment? The more you try, the more you'll know

[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1478212287' post='3167670'] For the finished product - the texturing you are planning on the outer coats will hide a lot of sins at this stage . [/quote]# That is definitely one of the things that appealed to me I am going to get some rougher sandpaper on the way home from work today. Probably 80 and 180. Hopefully i'll have some time tonight to do a test strip to see if i like the flake

I don't, but would it not be worth waiting for one from the periods they weren't like a baseball bat? I promise, it'll be worth the wait!

4/4 is my favorite. If we are looking for something other than the obvious though, i'd go with 7/8

Had about 30 minutes to myself last night, so made a start on sanding. Started off with 240 grade. Quite rough. But a good starting point. Again, used my workbench to clamp the body and gave it the once over. Not sure the pictures show it, but it has made a big difference already.... And the front Not too clear a picture unfortunately. Zoomed in a bit here... Here is a picture of the curved sides.... Again, doesn't really show much of what the initial sanding has done, but it has made a difference. I have 3 more grades of paper to use, then hopefully it'll be ready for finishing. Worth noting though, i don't plan on having a smooth finish, so "perfection" is not necessary for me at this stage. As always, any suggestions and ideas are welcomed I think my metal flake and paint should arrive today, so at some point over this weekend i plan on do a test run with them, and carrying on the sanding

Voted aswel. Couple of strong entries this month. Think i'm going to have a play with effects next month if i can get my recording setup working again

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1478076304' post='3166481'] Ah....just spotted - your scraper is part of your heat gun? That will be quite tricky as you say to get the heat right and the scraping right. I use a standard heat gun and decent quality (sharp but still cheap) hand scraper. Makes getting the balance between heat and mechanics just right [/quote] Yeh, it's definitely something i would change from the start if i did it again.

[quote name='owen' timestamp='1478035134' post='3166299'] I want to strip a guitar down so this is top info! [/quote] Glad it can be of use to someone. I did the sides yesterday. That was far more awkward!! Firstly, i had to find a way to stand the body on end. So i used my tool bench as a kind of clamp. You can see what i mean in the picture below. Ideal? No. But it did a good job of it actually. It was tricky because the scraping tool i had on the end of the heat gun was a little too big to fit in the upper and lower horn section of the body easily. So it took a fair bit of moving around in the "vice". A few swears were made when i picked the body up and it was still hotter than the surface of the sun. But i got there in the end. A note to anyone who hasn't done this before but is thinking of it..... wear eye protection. When you're scraping the poly off, it flakes off and then flicks up into the air. A piece that goes into your eye would be bad enough on its own, but it is hot too. Feels like when you're frying bacon and the fat spits off and burns you. Imagine some of that in your peepers! I had a piece hit me on top of my cheek. That was enough of a warning for me, so i got mine out. Like i said, this bit was far trickier than the front and back, and as such i did leave the heat gun in the same place for too long in parts, but after sanding i don't see it being an issue. If i do it again, I'll make sure to go steadily about it. Do not rush. And potentially buy a smaller tool for the heat gun. Although the problem could have been circumvented by using a separate scraper. Possibly could have been more awkward because of the tighter angles in a shortscale body too. It's all a learning experience though I've ordered my metal flake, and some primer spray paint and clear coat lacquer. Once they arrive i will carry out a test on a piece of wood to see if i like the finish. Until then though, the sanding. Hopefully get a little bit done before band practice tonight.

Hi Patrick. I guess it depends if you are planning on selling them and only using the money from the sale for the new kit. Market isn't great at the minute, so don't know how much you'll get for your TC kit. Would you be willing to buy second hand? What kind of music do you play, and what type of sound do you go for?

Yeh the scorches have come off. After i swore a bit, i thought i'd see if i could fix it. And the scorches were gone Just wanted to be truthful with how it originally went. I'll post the cleaner shots after i've done the sides. But yes, "slow and smooth". I'll be repeating that mantra