Jigster

altho I've always fought to be a free man and own as many basses as I please - I'm [b]all in favour[/b] of being gas free because GAS always leads, inevitably, to FART - [b]F[/b]eeling [b]A[/b] [b]R[/b]eal [b]T[/b]art ie. too many basses induces a Catholic upbringing guilt type neurosis of having indulged too much - which bass do I play, which bass is to be THE bass, which bass will give me THE sound...a sure path to madness and sleepless nights. Happily now trimmed down to three, what I consider, quality basses. (For now)

[quote name='DHA' post='694366' date='Dec 27 2009, 04:47 PM']Sounds like there was an open circuit between the amp and the speakers at one point. Most likely a duff speaker cable or jack, I would check it all again or you will blow it up again at some time.[/quote] how wud I check? the cab came with a cable provided so that won't be used again as the cab's gone back - when i used it with the reh room cab that was a standard extension speaker cable and was no probs - so hopefully am free of any dodgy cables or jacks just had a thought actually - the cable that came with the cab was a speakon connection type and pretty hard to fit tightly, if that wasn't flush in would that create some kind of problem?

MFD?

so wud you trade?

i hear yu MB1 - but I tell ya what, the G string rings so clear on the G&L - unlike my Ray

thanks for the info guys tell me - wud I be mad to trade my 2008 MM Stingray for a G&L 2000 I've seen - I reckon by matching serial numbers as best as poss on GuitarsByLeo page that it's an early/mid 90s model - pretty darn sure it's USA made as says built in Fullerton on the headstock, (don't think they were constructing in the far east back then?) - it's got so much variety and the active/passive options - is in really good nick, and just seems to sound BETTER than the Ray I have the G&L is at £899, wud i be a pratt?

i've got a 20th anniv squier jazzer - anyone know where these were made and general concensus on their quality? seems pretty good to me, altho might swap out the stock pups

the reh room cab was fine, the one i bought was where the probs started - yes i'm aware that impedence is variable - so even tho i bought an 8ohm cab to match 8ohm on the head there cud well have been a mismatch going on -

i think at the end of the day it's inconclusive - and I REALLY don't have the mental powers to understand it all, suffice to say, I called an amp tech, but the general scenario was this: I bought the Orange head without a cab, and put a new cab on order. Meanwhile, whilst waiting, I used it once in anger at a reh studio and went though a sealed 8 ohm cab (think it was a 6x10 but may have been 8x10) anyway, no probs, played great. Then used it a 2nd time with the cab I'd ordered, 1x15 also 8ohms, but ported - and that's when it blew, lingering brown looking smoke coming out of the top grill and output valve fuses blown etc. (altho to say, according to the amp tech, the output valve fuses were the wrong kind to start with - they were slow cut rather than instant cut) Coincidence? Why did the head blow then, and not before with the sealed cab, this is what remains inconclusive really. Anyway, so then i took it to the amp tech and this is what he put in an e-mail: "Two of the four 6550s in the Orange had suffered screen meltdown. This happens, for sure, but two at a time failing quickly after trying a different speaker load makes double-checking the suitability of the speaker important" - [b](which of course I did, the head has an 8ohm match as does the cab, so essentially, I didn't mis-match)[/b] He continues: "Very Low impedance is a possible problem for the AD200, since the anode voltage is very high (~700V) - low Z loads draw current while leaving a high instantaneous anode voltage, and potential anode hotspots. On the other hand, if the resonance peak(s) present substantially more than 8 Ohm within the Bass spectrum, these may cause rapid decrease of anode voltage and a sharp rise in the screen current. Although the Orange runs the screens well within spec (<400V) you could certainly get screen meltdown with unsuitably high impedance peaks - all dependent on frequency. Many drivers have their resonance curve pushed upward in frequency when enclosed in a small cabinet, which (depending on where they start from) may be dangerous for a valve bass amp." When I collected the amp head he also mused on whether ported cabs are suitable for valve amps generally - which I know has seen a lot of discussion on Talk Bass and maybe on here (?) - I really don't have the knowledge to argue anything either way, maybe a ported cab [i]doesn't[/i] suit and I should get a sealed one, (altho was speaking to Jeff at Matamp last week about this and he said ported cabs were fine, and not to pay any attention to that) Suffice to say, the head is fixed, I played it again and all works fine. I've returned the 1x15 (superstition I guess, fresh start I guess) and am now considering what to get next to match with the Orange. (maybe a Matamp) All thoughts welcome - but keep it simples

sorted

ah, some G&L peeps - anyone got anything to say about the G&L L2000 series E models - have seen one from early 80's f/s

original hardshell case

anyone know what the necks were/are like on these - I like the fender jazz neck idea, but something active - or is the neck more P like? Ta

[quote name='WonderHorse' post='685252' date='Dec 15 2009, 02:56 PM']Can't wait to hear the sounds clips. This thread is not helping my GAS[/quote] Being picky here, but isn't it AAS you're suffering from as the Orange Terror is strictly an amp