Moos3h

The CV60's jazz is awesome! Stock pickups are totally fine too - make sure you play it first though, I've seen a few in stores that haven't always had the best build.

We've had this from time-to-time and it's our opinion that either: 1). The audience are a bunch of dicks. VERY rare, but it has happened and those aren't venues to which we return. 2). We aren't the band they want to see. Has happened a few times, the clue is being asked for 'Sweet Child of Mine'. May as well start packing up then 3). We're playing badly. Also has happened, but it makes it harder to pull yourself together when faced with total indifference. As a percentage of our gigs, it doesn't happen often, thankfully!

I had a Hartke 3000 that went belly up and the engineer who fixed it said it was a real pain to work on too. Don't really know why but it put me off Hartke gear a bit - perhaps unnecessarily!

Would it be a good time to mention I do PAT testing? Cheers, James

No, they are dreadful wood. I've had three B1000's and all of them are shocking in terms of wood - soft, cardboardy-textured stuff. But I love 'em, whack a decent pickup in, possible swap the bridge (if you can be bothered - I was) and they are superb basses for the money, I'm keeping an eye out for my next one

Iconic, earlier today: "Good little runner..."

I couldn't vouch for the difference in tone between string through and top load, but I can vouch for the difference between a normal and high mass bridge on a VERY cheapo bass. I have a Westfield which had a BBoT style bridge, replaced with a high mass copy of the Schaller sorta job and the difference is noticeable to both sustain and slightly noticeable 'depth' to the tone, also seems to have had a positive effect in reducing string tension - it's a much nicer bass to play as a result and action etc. is roughly the same as it was before (+/- 1mm) So I guess if you have a nice bass with a serviceable bridge - it doesn't matter. Bit if we're talking a cheapo bass, there could be an improvement to be made.

That's great, thanks! I thought the pots 'value' did make a difference? Not personally (as in I've never tried it) but is it just a case of hearing what you (one) wants to hear? Cheers, James

Hi folks. I have a no name P bass that I'd like to pimp. I'm going for a Kent Armstrong Pickup, but want to replace the pots and jack for ones from Axesrus, but I have a choice of 250k or 500k log or linear pots and cap value. What? I have no idea. What do I need? I'd like a bright and clear sound with plenty of low end - essentially something that won't interfere with the signal from the pickup. Thanks in advance! James

Do it yourself! Seriously, if you make notes on how they are wired now, and order the parts online, the soldering is pretty easy - just follow an online guide. Just trying to help, but it's really a good skill to learn!

At work we bulk order from Screwfix and the stuff is great! Not cheap, but gets cheaper with larger quantities. Thankfully we gots a lot o' bodies to get rid of...

I quite like it. Sorry, but there you go, I do.