dlloyd

As an aside, my baritone (solid acacia) also has an rrp of $469, but is for sale at the Southern Ukulele Store at £280.

[quote name='basskit_case' post='963151' date='Sep 21 2010, 11:39 AM']Having owned and played the Spruce top UBass it didnt feel like an £340 instrument. The Solid Spruce top UBass cost £340, cannot find the price for a Baritone but a Kala Solid Spruce Top Tenor can be brought for £180. I appreciate we are not comparing like with like and the requirements for a Electro-Acoustic Bass will be different from a Electro-Acoustic Ukulele. It just seems to me that they have added a "novelty factor" premium to the UBass, the lack of any viable competitor would suggest that the can charge what they want.[/quote] Which begs the question of how much Kala actually charge (rather than what you can find them for) There isn't an rrp for the Spruce top baritone with pickup on the Kala website, but the plain old acoustic one is $270. From the tenor instruments, there appears to be a $120 upcharge for a pickup, so we could reasonably expect rrp on an electro-baritone to be $390. The rrp on the UBass2 is $469, so around an $80 difference. It doesn't look like the blame for the price jump lies with Kala.

[quote name='basskit_case' post='963097' date='Sep 21 2010, 10:49 AM']I really liked the sound, but couldnt really reconcile the cost. When you think that the UBass is based on a Baritone shape Ukulele the cost seems excessive for rubber strings and different sized tuners.[/quote] How much do you think it should have cost? My Kala Baritone uke cost £300. If you think that's excessive, it's a world of difference from a £150 uke.

[quote name='Musky' post='960220' date='Sep 18 2010, 10:33 AM']Good idea, but I'd imagine that those people who might find the images NSFW work in a place where they probably don't have the administrative privileges necessary. Is that a monkey playing the piano in your avatar? [/quote] Yep... it's the closest I could get

[quote name='Pete Academy' post='960120' date='Sep 18 2010, 07:18 AM']Is anyone offended by Christina Hendricks? [/quote] Not as such, but as an avatar is supposed to be a representation of yourself (and this goes for other avatars mentioned in this thread), it's a slightly strange choice.

[quote name='Hamster' post='953265' date='Sep 12 2010, 12:08 AM'][url="http://www.watfordvalves.com/home.asp"]http://www.watfordvalves.com/home.asp[/url] More valves than you can shake a plectrum at. Personally I'd go for JJ valves.[/quote] Just the ticket! Cheers...

My old guitarist friend is looking for a set of replacement valves for his silverface twin. 6V6s, apparently. I've never had much luck with valve amps and have never had one long enough to replace the valves... can anyone recommend a supplier? Are they all pretty much the same brand-wise? Is there a budget supplier and, if so, is there a reason you'd avoid using them? Cheers...

[quote name='Doddy' post='936265' date='Aug 25 2010, 07:10 PM']The Bullet basses were originally branded as Fender and made in the USA,and came as both 34"(B-34) and 30"(B-30) scale,between 1981 and '83. They then moved production to Japan in '84 and re-branded them Squier,initially only releasing the 34" model. I think that later may have reissued the 30" model,but I'm not sure. I've got an '81 Fender Bullet and it's a lovely little bass.[/quote] I had a friend who had an 82 Fender Bullet guitar... strat shaped (no contours) , chunky metal pick guard with built in bridge, two white, covered single coils, tele headstock. Nice guitar too.

I had an OLP Bass VI type thing at one point, but sold it on as I couldn't use it in the band I was in and it was just sitting around. It's an odd instrument... neither a bass nor a guitar. Best place I found for it was playing along with a regular bass and a guitar.

Never met him, didn't know him in the slightest, but found his posts interesting and illuminating. Sad news. Like everyone else my thoughts are with his friends and family.

[quote name='Sarah5string' post='901864' date='Jul 22 2010, 01:34 PM']I always thought of it as a guitar, until someone said above about the double bass aspect...[/quote] The double bass is a member of the violin family. The bass guitar isn't.

Of course it's a guitar.

[quote name='Azrabella' post='897818' date='Jul 18 2010, 09:47 AM']I guess most of you guys play in "standard" tuning, but I've always played guitar in either open G or open E (D). Anyone reckon I should conform now I intend playing bass, or should I carry on with open tunings? Just a thought, but I would appreciate feedback - (er, no pun meant) on this issue[/quote] Most bassists accompanying guitarists who frequent those tunings would be playing in standard EADG.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='898924' date='Jul 19 2010, 01:39 PM']I need: Quality screwdriver with different head option[/quote] Several quality screwdrivers with the correct fixed heads. Plus a set of allen keys... imperial for US basses, metric for everything else. [quote]Straight Edge[/quote] Not strictly necessary [quote]A ruler with the correct increments[/quote] Yep. [quote]Possibly feeler guides[/quote] Useful, but not necessary. A credit card and a cardboard business card will suffice for most applications. [quote]String cutters (I used some before and they were RUBBISH)[/quote] Yep. Plus a decent electronic tuner and some ears. A capo is useful. Do all measuring/checks for buzzing in a playing position. Check the nut first... the strings should each sit about a credit card thickness (about 1/32") above the first fret. 1. Fit new strings if desired 2. Tune strings 3. Check and adjust relief: Capo at first fret, fret by hand where neck meets body. Gap between string and fret at midpoint between the first fret and neck/body join should be around a business card width. Small adjustments of truss rod (quarter turns at a time at most) please! If the truss rod doesn't want to turn, don't force it... take it to a pro. Stingrays are simple to adjust... Fenders might need some loosening of strings and neck screws to get at the truss rod. Righty tighty (to reduce the gap), lefty loosey (to increase the gap). 4. Remove capo... Tune strings 5. Adjust string height. I use 3/32" at 12th fret. 6. Tune strings 7. Set intonation 8. Tune strings. 9. set pickup height to factory levels (6/32" from G string for Stingrays, 6/64" for fender basses) Then play the thing and adjust from there. Buzzing at first few frets needs more relief. Buzzing only above 12th fret would indicate you need less. Isolated buzzes: put a straight edge over three adjacent frets to check if it rocks or if there is a gap at the middle one... check that none of the frets move when you push it down. No single setting for relief etc. will be correct for every player or every bass or gauge/brand/material of strings etc. Feeler gauges are good for checking if the neck has moved since your last adjustment (I use my ears), but I'd caution against using them as the golden rule for setting relief.

[quote name='XB26354' post='881381' date='Jun 29 2010, 09:26 PM']I've just had a quick listen to the original and PC most definitely plays it an octave higher than was written on that lead sheet.[/quote] It's probably been transcribed by a pianist who's transcribed it as it sounds (apart from the 'E' error), ignoring the fact that bass is a transposing instrument.

I have an old strat copy that needs refretted. I'm considering sanding down the fretboard at the same time to increase the radius to 16" Good or bad idea? It's a slab board.

[quote name='thack' post='880949' date='Jun 29 2010, 01:49 PM']Not my link but this actually made me spaff everywhere. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Conklin-Custom-8-string-Sidewinder-BASS-Made-USA-/290449641281?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Guitar&hash=item43a025cf41"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Conklin-Custom-8-str...=item43a025cf41[/url][/quote] That reminds me... I have some ironing to do...

[quote name='faceman' post='878550' date='Jun 27 2010, 12:50 AM']Right guys...I've got a gig next week where I'm doing a jazz set, an excellent first for me. Besides slapping some flatwounds on my 4003, I've been practising like hell. We are doing Watermelon Man, Moondance, Autumn Leaves and a few others to be decided. The quartet have also we are doing So What, which is posing a challenge. I asked the pianist about what to play but he said he couldn't explain it as his theory of jazz isn't good enough. I've followed a transcription of [url="http://www.bassmasta.net/d/davis,_miles/102723.html"]http://www.bassmasta.net/d/davis,_miles/102723.html[/url] for the main riff, which seems to be fine for the introduction and free form section. He said I [b]could not [/b]do anything on a blues scale as it would just sound wrong. So can someone with a knowledge a theory, modes and modal jazz give me a brief explanation of how I can play this and improvise where needed...I'm not looking for anything amazing, just how I can do the introduction and some walking in the right places. I've got a bit of an idea about modes but not enough Thanks [/quote] You're being thrown into the deep end a little by the sounds of things. The walking section in So What is fairly simple [i]once you know what you're doing[/i]. I found it quite difficult to improvise a walking line because of the static nature of the chords. The best way to deal with it is to have a look at what Paul Chambers did in the original. Here's a PDF transcription of the first two choruses: [url="http://www.jazzeducationdatabase.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:paul-chambers-so-what-bassline&catid=29:bass&Itemid=54"]http://www.jazzeducationdatabase.com/index...s&Itemid=54[/url] Note how he usually starts the bar with a chord tone (mostly the 1st and 5th) and keeps the forward movement between the bars going by using a mixture of chromatic, dominant and scalar approach notes to get to these chord tones. Chromatic is when the note is a half step from the chord tone you're approaching, e.g. Bb to A Dominant is a fifth above or a fourth below the chord tone, e.g. A to D Scalar is a note away from the chord tone in the relevant mode/scale. Here, we're talking D and Eb dorian

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='869508' date='Jun 16 2010, 10:09 PM']There's a review of the Kala bass uke in the latest Bass Guitar Magazine.[/quote] I have a solid acacia Kala baritone uke... I really can't say enough good things about them. Phenomenal quality for the price.

[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='869489' date='Jun 16 2010, 09:46 PM']Isn't a bass ukelele a tenor guitar? G.[/quote] No.

[quote name='RuiJRocha' post='865224' date='Jun 12 2010, 02:36 PM']No one [/quote] Normally I would have said Allparts, but they're having difficulty getting Badasses: [url="http://www.allparts.uk.com/badass-bridges-supply-update-c-564.html"]http://www.allparts.uk.com/badass-bridges-...date-c-564.html[/url]

[quote name='charic' post='864026' date='Jun 11 2010, 09:08 AM']That kind of money Id be after a ritter methinks. Now THATS a toy![/quote] Oh God no... horrible things.

[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='864248' date='Jun 11 2010, 12:42 PM'](a) I'm not sure the OLP has the same heel dimensions - I recollect reading somewhere that they were deliberately made differently so as to avoid this kind of substitution, and ( the neck on the OLP (5er) I've got is a *very* clubby/baseball bat affair, and you wouldn't want to be putting it on a nice Sabre body. Funnily enough the neck on my mate's Tony Levin 5 is a much shallower affair & much more acceptable. G.[/quote] I'd be tempted to put on a Status neck.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='864174' date='Jun 11 2010, 11:19 AM']I'm actually not sure about using Vaseline on wood. I think it would permeate the wood creating a wet bond rather than forming a lubricated barrier. I prefer to use wax (candle, crayon, bee's) or as was posted here the other day soap works too.[/quote] I usually use fairy liquid