alexclaber

[quote name='Marvin' timestamp='1453135636' post='2956727'] If you can get to the Bass Gallery you could try a Big Baby 2 [url="http://thebassgallery.com/big-baby-2.html"]http://thebassgaller...big-baby-2.html[/url] [/quote] They actually have three demo cabs (Big Baby 2, Super Midget, One10) that bassists are welcome to borrow for gigs.

I don't believe there's such a big issue here as in the USA regarding the type of power amp and how it'll delivery bass - we have 240V power, they have 110V, so over four times as much power easily available from the wall.

Some of the Sansamp preamps are not hot enough to drive some power amps to full power, so you'll need the check both the output voltage of the preamp and the input sensitivity of the power amp.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1452887763' post='2954539']PS: The look of a cab is irrelevant - it's what it sounds like that counts.[/quote] It's as irrelevant as what a pop band looks like - which is not very irrelevant at all!

That looks incredibly similar, if not identical, to the ones we use (and I think we've had two breakages out of hundreds and hundreds of wheels). Email me your address and we'll send you one!

How's the drying out going?

Do you have some better photos of it? I think I've seen every decent quality tiltback caster that's available in the UK so I may be able to recognise it - however it may be a part which is only available in the USA.

[quote name='Truckstop' timestamp='1452553088' post='2951195']Genuinely terrifies me when people say they need 500w and a 4x10 to be heard. That's an insane amount of power and volume and you just don't need it![/quote] A player with a more dynamic plucking style could easily require that much power to sound as loud as you do with a 100W 1x12" combo, without suffering poor tone due to lack of headroom. And you yourself could require that much power or more if playing with a drummer whose average loudness is no more than your current drummer but who likes to play with more dynamics during crescendos. It isn't even twice as loud.

It's best to think in terms of acoustic watts, not electrical watts. To put things simply, the more cone area and enclosure volume you have, the more efficiently your system turns electrical energy into sound energy. This is a 5W bass rig: https://www.facebook.com/electromusic.doncaster/photos/a.500640740065205.1073741827.500050530124226/773583696104240/?type=3 But it'll generate about 110dB of sound!

[quote name='ChunkyMunky' timestamp='1452467082' post='2950275']Am I overreacting a bit by worrying about frying a Barefaced or similar cabinet in the future? Thanks, y'all. [/quote] The only Barefaced cab that the ShuttleMax 12.0 has enough power to fry is the One10, unless you're doing something deliberately abusive (in which case it's possible to blow almost any cab with almost any amp). Worry not!

[quote name='karlfer' timestamp='1452265050' post='2948252']As a Luddite the only point of reference I have is how far I turn the two volume knob thingy's around. NEVER more than half way on gain or master, rarely that far.[/quote] With typical gain staging half way on many amps and with many basses equates to full power on louder notes. Plenty of amps have the gain stages set so that they reach full power well before noon with typical input signals, because people assume that if an amp is as loud with the master volume at 10 o'clock as another amp with the master at 2 o'clock, then the first amp must be more powerful. Sadly it isn't but it sells amps in shops and means we end up with lots of amps on the market where the second half of knob rotation is worthless as you're already at full power by then.

[quote name='karlfer' timestamp='1452256998' post='2948121']And to be honest, most amps I've had above 500 watts (as per manufacturers claims) have hardly been turned on.[/quote] If you'd had a way of measuring how much power you'd actually used on your gigs, I'd put a fair amount of money on you having used almost all the power fairly often, and definitely used every last watt a good few times - bass guitar is an extremely dynamic and power hungry instrument.

[quote name='Kevin Dean' timestamp='1452205824' post='2947723']Thanks Frank , Is there a difference in sound between the BB2 & the Super Midget .[/quote] If there wasn't then we wouldn't make both!

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1452204908' post='2947700'] Stupid question time - where did the Benz in Genz Benz come from? Was it just a blatant ripoff of the Mercedes Benz name? [/quote] They started out making PA subs, "Genzler's Bins", which shortened to "Genz's Bins" and then to "Genz Benz" as a spin on the Merc thing.

[quote name='Subthumper' timestamp='1452031043' post='2945798'] You might get away with no corrosion on the magnet centre pole. All the other types of eminence driver I've seen have completely powder coated magnet assemblies and are almost rust proof. I'd be interested to know how this goes. [/quote] You're quite right, they are all powder coated, I'd forgotten! I'd be surprised if the cab warps when drying out, there's a lot of bracing in there...

[quote name='sunburstjazz1967' timestamp='1452025510' post='2945710'] Some anti bacterial spray wiped over the surfaces is a good idea too, when flooding occurs the foul mixes with the storm water,"das poop!" [/quote] Yes, good idea! Just don't go spraying even more water on it. Get it dry, then disinfect if required.

Awful! However, on the plus side as long as you don't play it until it's COMPLETELY DRY it'll almost certainly be absolutely fine. Take it somewhere warm, safe and dry. Take the grill off. Take the woofers out and put them somewhere safe and well aired. If the insulation/damping is soaked/dirty I'd pull all that out (note where each bit goes), collect up all the staples (they're not much fun to stand on and you don't want them loose in the cab), and hang that up somewhere to dry. Once everything is bone dry - like not at all damp, like washing that's been in the tumble drier for too long - then vacuum the insulation and inside of the cab and brush any dirt off the cones with a soft brush. Staple/silicone the insulation back in. Re-fit the woofers (make sure their polarity is correct - marked cable to the red terminal) taking care not to push out any t-nuts (use a G-clamp to push them back in if they've come loose), and test the cab before putting the grill back on. If you try to use the cab whilst the cones are still damp they will fall apart. But as long as you wait for it to dry out it should be sonically as good as it was before its aquatic experience. Worst case scenario there'll be too much corrosion on the motor pole pieces but I think you'd have to have it submerged for years to manage that. I'd put some light oil on all the hardware (not the woofers!) to stop things rusting in the future.

[quote name='Pbassred' timestamp='1451768464' post='2943332']Not really. The maker's stated impedance is the [i]nominal[/i] (within a degree of accuracy) across [b]a range[/b] of frequencies. Slightly lower at lower frequencies and increasing at the high end. As a guide, the DC (no frequency) resistance of an "8ohm" driver is about 6 ohms.[/quote] At low frequencies impedance varies hugely, often going more than ten times as high as the nominal impedance. Impedance is lowest for most drivers in the low midrange, rising at higher frequencies - but if there are midrange drivers or tweeters the impedance for the cab will vary a lot through the upper mids and treble, often having its lowest points around crossover frequencies. Impedance magnitude isn't the only thing that matters - the phase also makes a difference. A cab whose impedance phase goes strongly negative at when the impedance magnitude is low will be harder for an amp to drive. Basically the impedance number is a massive over-simplification of a three dimensional plot of impedance magnitude vs impedance phase vs frequency. In the case of our 10CR driver, the impedance magnitude varies much less than many drivers so it's easy to drive. The impedance phase never goes strongly negative which makes it even easier. And it's very high sensitivity, so it doesn't need much power to get loud - again making it easier to drive. We can be pretty laid back about what people hook it up and how low the nominal impedance could be claimed to be with certain configurations because it's very amp friendly and you'd have to be doing pretty stupid things and running well below your amp's minimum load before problems occur.

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1451687593' post='2942570']Two 12ohm 210 would make it 6ohm. Would it be noticeably different from two 8ohm 210s that would give a 4ohm load?[/quote] Exactly - it isn't! We're not going to go into production with alternate impedance versions because there isn't a good enough engineering/performance reason to justify the hassle of having to stock a whole load of extra drivers but we do have samples of our 10CR driver in lots of different impedances. If anyone wants a custom impedance One10 or Two10 then email us and we'll let you know if we have the right drivers to make what you need. We could do a custom BB2 without the HF driver and crossover and the woofer moved to the top of the cab but the extra work involved would make it more expensive than a standard BB2. And I wouldn't want to add it to the product range because it would just create confusion - it's hard enough for bassists to work out which one of our three 1x12" cabs is right for them without adding a fourth!

[quote name='SaxyBassist' timestamp='1450122511' post='2929855'] My head is spinning now ..... actually I reckon I could solve the problem if I took up weight training! [/quote] Despite making lightweight cabs I'm a big advocate of the benefits of throwing some weights around - especially as it allows you to eat more chocolate! RH450 into a One10 would be nice, as would a micro-stack with the Promethean on the One10 (one One10 will play almost as loud as an RS210).

I do like the engineering innovation in these! The problem is that front chamber generates a lot of unwanted resonances, as well as providing a Helmholtz resonance at the slot port, so although you gain bass output and gain improved midrange dispersion, there's a lot of midrange colouration. And I don't think the tweeter reaches low enough to match up with where the slot is acting as a lowpass filter on the woofer. I guess it's using a typically low excursion high efficiency Trace Elliot woofer, and the bandpass design is very good at reducing excursion for a given output, so it'll play louder than a conventional combo with the same woofer. Good way to get a lot of output and a lot of audibility out of a small box - certainly one of the lowest power combos that is giggable for many bassists.

It's a good problem to have! I'm pretty certain the TKS 1126 has the woofer we used in the original Big Baby (Gen 2) and the midrange driver we used in the Big One (Gen 1). There'll be some variance depending on the crossover and enclosure tuning but I can fairly accurately predict what they'll sound like. Unless you've got completely custom 1126 cabs they're actually slightly larger than the BB2, although they look smaller from the front (because they're deeper). The BB2 is very flat in the mids, no midrange bump at all, so if it sounds midrangey then that's because the output from the bass and amp is. The Compact is much more midrangey, less clean and less accurate. They do work together fine but once you're getting into very picky comparisons then they're definitely not an ideal rig! Everything about the Barefaced stack would be better with two BB2s, especially in terms of making the tone less midrangey and the bottom more defined. There may be a bass cab out there with less of its own character than the BB2 but I've yet to hear it - it just doesn't leave out anything, whilst most cabs either add something or take away something, and as you'll know from messing with EQ, you can change the tone of something hugely by putting a relatively small cut at different points in the midrange, especially with bass guitar which has so much of its tone happening in the 300-900Hz region.

Yes, slot-loaded to help midrange dispersion. I think it's also acting as a bandpass cab, with the rear chamber coupled to the horizontal slot port and the front chamber coupled to the vertical slot, and the woofer in between those two chambers. I used one on a gig about 10 years ago - it wasn't that bad!

The dispersion of the Big Twin 2 is quite a lot better, both from the woofers and the tweeter, and it's quite a bit taller too.

Yes, I'm pretty certain the original Klystron ones had the signature Ashdown pale blue fronts - the chrome fronts came later. All the heavyweight Ashdown amps are great though and all sound very similar.