alexclaber

The joy of having a cab that large and thus that high in sensitivity is that you can drive it with cheap low powered heads and it will still be able to go very loud. The world is your oyster! Alex

[quote name='wotnwhy' post='397176' date='Feb 1 2009, 08:09 PM']well for those interested. talked to Jorg and he thinks the 150w amp could have blown it as it's too under-powered[/quote] Well he's wrong! It could have blown the tweeter but it categorically could not have blown either woofer. No way José! Probably a defective driver, just bad luck. Alex

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='396034' date='Jan 31 2009, 11:24 AM']Could it be the sweep of the volume pot changes at different loads? I don't really know how they work. Would its be % of total power as it goes arounf (although 100% might not be at the end) or would the greater max output be further round the dial?[/quote] The sweep of the volume pot doesn't change, you still get the same voltage at the speaker outputs. However by halving the impedance load you double the amount of power coming out of the amp at the knob setting because twice the current is flowing. But you won't be able to turn the volume knob as high without the amp running out of current delivery. [quote name='EBS_freak' post='396474' date='Jan 31 2009, 09:49 PM']I think there was a bit of confusion - if I have an 8 ohm cab, play, then switch over the cab to 4 ohm without touching any of the controls, the 4 ohm is louder... but thats presumably because the amp is putting more out at those same settings...?[/quote] Exactly! Like comparing two amps within the volume knob in the same place and claiming that whichever is louder is more powerful, so comparing different impedance cabs without seeing how loud the amp can push each without break-up is not so much inaccurate as pointless! [quote name='monquixote' post='396022' date='Jan 31 2009, 11:06 AM']I don't know if it is something that is more apparent with class D amps like the Mark Bass. A 3 dB lift should only be perceived as 25% louder (I think) and I would anecdotally suggest it seemed to make more of a difference than that.[/quote] The LMII isn't Class D. [quote name='monquixote' post='396022' date='Jan 31 2009, 11:06 AM']using a cab with decent sensitivity speakers like an EBS makes as much or more difference as dropping the impedance.[/quote] It makes more difference. As does using a cab with speakers that can handle truly handle the power by having enough excursion ability. [quote name='monquixote' post='396022' date='Jan 31 2009, 11:06 AM']I've still got stacks of power on hand with the LMKII. I usually have it set so the gain is well back from the clip level with the master on about 40% to play with a loud drummer and I've had it up to 3/4 out of interest which still sounded undistorted, but had everyone running for the exit with bleeding ears![/quote] If you still have stacks of power with a 4 ohm cab then an 8 ohm cab would be just as loud. You can't claim that a 4 ohm cab is louder than a matching 8 ohm cab unless one of these cabs is taking the amp to its limits! Alex

[quote name='budget bassist' post='397157' date='Feb 1 2009, 07:50 PM']Valve preamp doesn't really mean much to me either, considering you can get some brilliant sounding solid state amps these days.[/quote] Again, all comes down to personal taste. I've never come across a solidstate preamp that can sound like the Fender Dual Showman type valve preamp with passive EQ as found in the LH500/1000, the Alembic preamps, the Kern (with a few tweaks), The BBE B-Max T, etc etc. I use a solidstate preamp that sounds nothing like them but I still believe it's a great sound for tons of players. Look at it another way - the GK 700RBII doesn't do more, it does the same - it makes your bass loud enough to drive speakers loud. So do all amps. It's just a question of which amp has the right tones for your tastes plus the right balance of cost, size, weight and price. I think the GK heads are great for metal because they have so much grrrr but if you have a bass with loads of natural grrr or an overdrive pedal that you like to run through most of the time then the LH1000 gives you crazy power for the money. Alex

[quote name='budget bassist' post='397125' date='Feb 1 2009, 07:27 PM']well, a compressor would be nice, and more than just a 3 band EQ, a 7 band graphic would be nice. That hartke just doesn't appeal to me that much...[/quote] Fair enough. But someone else may neither want nor need a compressor nor another 4 bands of EQ to get their sound, in which case the ultra simple preamp on the Hartke would save them money which can instead be spent on more power. For instance I've yet to come across an amp with an onboard compressor I like and after years of having a four band EQ with the two middle bands semi-parametric and almost never using it I've found I'm generally happy with little or no EQ. Alex

[quote name='budget bassist' post='397109' date='Feb 1 2009, 07:02 PM']How so?[/quote] If you want get the sound you want then what do you need any more features for? Alex

[quote name='owen968' post='396981' date='Feb 1 2009, 04:30 PM']ah ok, wot are the alternatives. my main reason for buying was to manage the kettle leads for my gear.[/quote] Just get a 4-way power strip from B&Q. If you have any digital gear in the rack make it a surge protected one but analogue stuff is sturdy enough to look after itself. Alex

[quote name='Shaggy' post='395785' date='Jan 30 2009, 09:59 PM']Just put together my "lightweight" rig; Trace-Elliot V-type all-valve pre-amp - £150 (thanks synthaesthsia!) QSC RMX-850 power amp - £90 on ebay (obliged to The Funk for words of wisdom) 3u rack case - hopefully £30-ish boutique tone and 600W power for £270 [/quote] Nice work! And I would put good money on the power that amp can put out being significantly greater than any similarly rated bass amp, plus the highpass filtering and quality clip limiters will allow you to make better use of it without causing speakers to complain. I look forward to hearing how it works for you. Alex

[quote name='EBS_freak' post='395881' date='Jan 31 2009, 12:35 AM']I've compared EBS 2x10 8 ohms with EBS 2x10 4 ohms. 4 ohm appears considerably louder.[/quote] But what amp were you using? I can guarantee that an EBS 2x10" 4 ohm would be no louder than an 8 ohm one when powered by one side of my PLX 3002 because of the amp having enough power at 8 ohms to take the cab to its limits. Alex

[quote name='monquixote' post='395716' date='Jan 30 2009, 08:45 PM']Weirdly I have almost the set up you describe (LMKII and a 4 Ohm EBS 4x10) and having used the LMKII with a variety of set ups I can confirm running with a 4Ohm cab (especially one with decent speakers like the EBS) is a heck of a lot louder than an 8.[/quote] I'd be very interested to know which 4 ohm and which 8 ohm cabs you've compared. I keep hearing anecdotes about this but no-one ever goes into much detail! Is the LMII just a weird case where the 4 ohm performance is much better than the 8 ohm performance? [quote name='monquixote' post='395716' date='Jan 30 2009, 08:45 PM']I'm not sure that you actually need that much power as even with a brutally loud rock drummer I never get my amp up to half way![/quote] In that case either you are not using full power so there is no advantage to the amount of extra output from a lower impedance load, or (as with the gain staging of most typical amps) you are reaching full power on louder notes with the master volume only halfway. Here's an interesting question for y'all to consider - what impedance is the cab whose impedance curve is shown below? Alex

[quote name='mcgraham' post='395537' date='Jan 30 2009, 04:43 PM']What exactly would I need to acquire to make use of the 10W output?[/quote] Well the easiest solution would be a single hi-fi speaker. It won't be loud but it should sound nice. Alternatively a nice 8" in a ported box could probably produce similar output to an unmiked double bass, whilst plugged into an 8x10" I bet you could keep up with most drummers. Alex

Been pondering on this at length and I think I'm going to go with the logo with 'barefaced' in full with "designed and made in England" spaced out underneath in caps. I don't want to obfuscate the brand by making it a set of initials as well as the name - as it stands if you google barefaced plus anything bass cab related the site tends to turn up fairly reliably. Also I'm looking to get a whole load of 'magic tilty things' (tm) which due to their shape will better suit the longer thinner logo. And bear in mind the logo has to look good on both the standard and vintage look cabs, so I think the full word is as modern looking as is wise. Alex

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='395561' date='Jan 30 2009, 05:07 PM']Did you just suggest mixing drivers could possibly be good?[/quote] I don't believe I've ever insisted that is is always a bad idea. Alex

[quote name='skankdelvar' post='394887' date='Jan 29 2009, 08:13 PM']And I'd love to know why.[/quote] Although it's a generalisation based on the the nature of the human brain, men are more obsessive whilst women are better at multi-tasking. Thus in the workplace women often make better managers and administators whilst men often make better sales people, traders or engineers. All of which stems back to prehistory where the man that was utterly singleminded about being the best at hunting or finding a mate tended to succeed, as did the woman that could look after a load of children whilst keeping the fire going and preparing the food. Survival of the fittest as it once was (which I now suspect means we'll have de-evolution as those that procreate soonest and more prolifically will take over...) Anyway, getting good at an instrument requires a rather male degree of obsession. Note how many female singer-songwriters there are compared to 'virtuoso' widdly guitarists! Would anyone care to name a notable gay bass player? I've been racking my brain but I can't think of any! (It is claimed that the homosexual male brain is more like the heterosexual female brain). Regarding the original topic, Me'Shell Ndegeocello may not be the best but she's certainly the baddest IMO. Alex

[quote name='ped' post='395506' date='Jan 30 2009, 04:01 PM']Well I just powered it up and I am delighted to say I still have my eyebrows and my hands intact.[/quote] And you never gave me your starting price! The cheek of it... Alex

[quote name='mcgraham' post='395487' date='Jan 30 2009, 03:39 PM']Argh! String buzz! Hate it. Nothing wrong with a little bit of sizzle but excessive clank annoys me so much. I worked on my touch and setup a huge amount to rid my playing of such artefacts.[/quote] Likewise. Most of the time I don't want any buzz at all, hence as I often dig in fairly hard I have a relatively high action and pluck so that the strings mostly move parallel to the frets. And then when I do want nasty rattle and clank and dirt I just change how and where I'm plucking! Who needs overdrive pedals when you have hands? I forgotten that you'd used my U5 thought I think it was through a Whappo Jr which isn't as accurate as the AccuGroove hype would suggest! Doesn't Mark @ Bass Direct do some PJB gear? As you'd mentioned practising through headphones I was thinking the Bass Buddy would be a good choice. And if you get a nice fullrange speaker and stick in a box you'd have a really nice practice amp for very little cost thanks to the PJB's 10W power amp. One of the few bits of gear that I'm still considering acquiring... Alex

[quote name='mcgraham' post='395339' date='Jan 30 2009, 12:46 PM']Alex, I know what you mean. I'd have said the same thing about electric guitars, but I was stunned to see divots on my friend's Strat, and all he did was play chords in the first position. Probably a combination of 'sharp' strings and poor technique (i.e. pressing too hard) as well as softer frets.[/quote] I think stainless steel roundwounds are particularly tough on frets and I'm guessing that some nickel silver frets are softer alloys than others. I presume also that the more string buzz you're willing to tolerate (or want) then the more your frets will be worn away. [quote name='mcgraham' post='395339' date='Jan 30 2009, 12:46 PM']Now the only weak link is the ART Tube MP, gotta find something to replace that at some point...[/quote] Have you tried an Avalon U5? Or cheaper and more sensibly sized but still rather good by all accounts, a PJB Bass Buddy? Alex

See here! [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&showtopic=39631&view=findpost&p=395311"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?s=&sho...st&p=395311[/url] Alex

Badass! I really want to try it - the most I've tried so far was the Doodly 7. Love the back view of it. Now all you need is a cab that can do justice to that kind of range! (Hint, hint...) Alex

[quote name='ped' post='395363' date='Jan 30 2009, 01:18 PM']... who dares me? Anyone willing to stake £90 and their reputation on it?? lol[/quote] If it does spontaneously combust it won't be because you hadn't got any speakers connected, it'll be because it was knackered! What odds will you give me on my £90 stake? Alex

Indeed, it's only if you have an output transformer that you'd have a problem. With no speakers connected the amp will see an infinite load so although the transistors will amplify voltage no current will flow, hence no risk of anything. If you had an output transformer (in bass amps only found in valve amps and the Jonas Hellborg signature amps) then the output section (be it valve or transistor) would amplify voltage and then current will flow from them and through the primary winding of the output transformer but this energy will not be then absorbed by the secondary winding of the output transformer and then sent on to the speaker, it will instead stay in the output transformer, build up and kill it (and I believe this is similar to how too high an impedance load can kill a valve amp). Alex

[quote name='Balcro' post='395318' date='Jan 30 2009, 12:21 PM']Sticks neck out: - The heart of a good amp is an over-rated, but controlled power supply.[/quote] Or at least sufficient amp headroom for your needs that the power supply is effectively over-rated. I have a strong suspicion that our 240V mains makes it far easier to make a high power amp than the US's wimpy 110V supply. On talkbass they spend their time wittering about the benefits of 'lead sleds' yet for the life of me I cannot imagine any amp being more potent at delivering huge lows than my lightweight QSC PLX. Alex

The LH500 is a great choice. Regarding cabs I think the key is to stay away from any that are naturally mid-scooped because the Fender tone-stack in the LH500 doesn't give you any way of compensating for that. Fortunately more cabs are midrangey than not but I'd avoid Aguilar GS112s like the plague and quite a few Peaveys. On the other hand SWR, Eden XLT, Trace Elliot should be fine. Ironically I'd not be too sure about all Hartke models but I suspect the XL and the more recent Pro cabs would be decent. Alex

[quote name='xgsjx' post='395199' date='Jan 30 2009, 09:43 AM']So for amps that usually get turned up about as far as 1/3 - 1/2 way at most for small - medium gigs, there would be no advantage in a 4 ohm cab over an 8 ohm?[/quote] Most amps reach full power by 50% on the master volume assuming the pregain is turned up to almost clip on loud notes. Generally the cheaper the amp the earlier on the master it hits full power because less experienced players tend to put two amps side by side and then deem the amp which is louder at equal knobs positions to be the more powerful amp! So if you want to sell more amps you skew the volume knob to take the amp to maximum output sooner rather than later. I remember a lot of Trace Elliott amps being particularly ridiculous like this - by 9 o'clock they'd be clipping on loud notes! As Ashdown is a descendant of TE I wouldn't be surprised if they have continued the habit... [quote name='xgsjx' post='395199' date='Jan 30 2009, 09:43 AM']If I wanted extra depth (more volume at lower hz), would adding a 15" 8 ohm cab be the best route?[/quote] Depends on the 15". But generally if you have a ten and a fifteen that are similar in specs and price (i.e. two tens cost the same as one fifteen) the fifteen will have more excursion. Combine that with the fifteen having more area than two tens and the fifteen will move more air which equals more bottom. However, two matching 2x10" cabs may couple more effectively than a 2x10" and a better quality 1x15" and it's hard to know without testing. (Coupling is where the efficiency of the system increases because of increased cone area - that's why 8x10" and 2x15" cabs are so damned loud!) You may have noticed that your tone gets growlier as you turn up, which a lot of bassists like. However when that's happening it also tends to mean that the bottom gets thinner which isn't so good. Both those symptoms tend to be due to the speakers being pushed past their clean excursion limit so if you team up two dissimilar cabs that still couple well you could get growl from one as it pushes past Xmax whilst the other maintains the fat clean bottom by staying within Xmax. Just something that dawned on me recently when pondering why dissimilar speakers sometimes sound better than matched ones. Alex

[quote name='mcgraham' post='393581' date='Jan 28 2009, 12:35 PM'] It'll be fine. I play and fret very lightly. My other bass had small vintage sized Fender frets and there was little to no fret wear after 4 years of playing around 4 hours a day most days. So good quality ones should be fine... I hope![/quote] How often do basses need refretting anyway? My Warwick's still on its original ones despite being over twenty years old, though I know bell bronze is harder than nickel silver. I went with smaller frets (mandolin size?) on my RIM Custom 5 but they're made of stainless steel so hopefully the (nickel) strings will do all the wearing out, not the frets! Alex