alexclaber

Well it does look very cool! At some point in the future I'd like to get some active designs together with DSP a la IP series but the current price/performance balance on the modules just isn't good enough IMO compared to what you get with the latest micro heads. A biamped DSP'd version of the Big One could outperform any of the IP cabs and would even come close to those crazy Forge cabs at a fraction of the weight. Expensive though, and a lot of R&D required to optimise something that complicated. There's also a load more regulations to comply with once mains power is involved. I like that you're looking at being able to plug a bass straight in without an external preamp - how are you buffering the input and then getting enough gain to drive the power stage? Alex

[quote name='owen' post='394550' date='Jan 29 2009, 01:53 PM']Am I the only person who has never (in 25 years) taken a back up out?[/quote] No, you are not alone! I couldn't be doing with having another bass 'just in case'. As it is my '87 Warwick has sat almost entirely untouched since it was superseded a year ago. Alex

The only thing the size of a speaker tells you is how big it looks - some tens sound deep, some fifteens sound punchy, some twelves have tons of bottom whilst some have none. You're better off considering what kind of sound you want, how loud you need to be, what you are willing to carry and how much you have to spend. The shortlist that results may consist of three or four cabs with completely different speaker configurations despite being similar weights, prices and sounding similar. Yes, it is rather confusing! Alex

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='394352' date='Jan 29 2009, 09:18 AM']You probably wont hear a difference in volume between 350 watts and 500 watts. But add another 8 ohm EBS 2x10 and you will definitely hear the difference in volume. So guys chasing full beans from 1 cab would be much better off with 2 cabs if they can transport the buggers.[/quote] Exactly! Dropping to a 4 ohm load from an 8 ohm load may get you 2dB from your amp but your cab probably won't be able to make use of that. But add a second matching cab and the speakers will couple in the lows and low midrange, increasing the system sensitivity by 3dB, so with the same power input you'll be 3dB louder. Also you'll double the excursion limited power handling, thus giving you 3dB more output potential if you have the power to take the speakers to that point (and generally you will because most speakers have such poor excursion limited power handling). And so the extra 2dB more output from your amp driving a lower impedance might actually be of use! Alex

[quote name='BassBalls' post='394127' date='Jan 28 2009, 10:34 PM']I think its worth buying good quality cabs which sound great over a better quality amp and average cabs.[/quote] I agree but then I would say that! But seriously, a bass cab requires a stiff strong structure and a pretty advanced chunk of electromechanical engineering in the speaker. Physical structures and electromechanical/mechanical systems haven't become much cheaper over the years, they still require expensive engineering and manufacturing and parts. Electronic systems have become much cheaper through every more cunning circuitry, miniaturised components and automated build processes. Hence you can get a much better amp for the same money as years ago, or spend less and still get a great amp. But a cabinet still takes the same time to build (or longer if you want to go light to match your lightweight amp) and a loudspeaker is still restricted in the same way it was decades ago - you can't do really good really cheap. A more extreme example might be computers vs cars - computers are solely electronic and get cheaper and better every day. Cars continue to improve but they aren't getting cheaper. Alex

Although a 4 ohm cab will generally get you another 2dB of output from your amp vs an 8 ohm cab (3dB more voltage sensitivity but the amp will reach its current limitations before you get the full 3dB), unless it is a large cab or has high excursion drivers the cab will not be able to do anything of use with that extra power. Certainly in the case of a 2x10" cab the only 2x10" that would benefit from 500W rather than 300W is an Acme. All other 2x10" cabs will be running into distortion by the time you get 300W of low-end hitting them. With a high-end 4x10" and a moderately powerful amp then a 4 ohm load will give you a little more output than an 8 ohm load. But with a cheap 4x10" less than 200W could take it to its limits in the bottom. If you're comparing dissimilar cabs then it's perfectly likely that an 8 ohm cab could be louder than a 4 ohm cab - if the 8 ohm cab is more sensitive then it will be louder with less power, or it might be that the 8 ohm cab can handle full voltage (i.e. power) from your amp whilst the the 4 ohm cab starts distorting with less voltage so the lower impedance doesn't end up equally more power and just more loudness. Here's the relationship: Power = volts x amps Amps = volts / impedance Power = (voltage squared) / impedance If you halve the impedance then you double the power. But in doing so you double the current flow (amps) and most amps cannot do this so the voltage drops. But to produce lows you need speakers to move air and that requires plenty of cone area x excursion (fore-aft movement). Go back fifteen years and we thought 300W was a lot of power and 500W was as much as you could ever need! Many cab makers have hardly moved forwards with their speakers but their amps are far more powerful than then - all that extra power is simply wasted unless you have cabs that can make use of it. And that does not mean you need to look for a cab that is rated at 500W or a 1000W or so on because that only tells you how much heat they can handle - even an expensive 1000W rated neo 4x10" can't handle more than 300W in the lows without distortion. In summary, don't worry about trying to get maximum power from your head unless it's really low on power (like 200W into its lowest impedance load). Alex

[quote name='joegarcia' post='394269' date='Jan 29 2009, 12:41 AM']Plus, that'd also be knocking the DB680 which has a fair few devoted fans on here. [/quote] The DB680 has so many valves in it that it can certainly justify being that big and heavy! I haven't heard one myself but everyone seems to love the tone. Alex

[quote name='Dosi Y'Anarchy' post='392774' date='Jan 27 2009, 02:48 PM']IMO the Blowtorch does synthy fuzz better than most, but i doubt you could get a tubey tone out of it (regardless what the manual says) you can get more conventional fuzz sounds of it, but for me thats wasting what the pedal really excels at.[/quote] I won one of these from Bass Player magazine and I have to agree. Even prefer it to my Big Muff for fuzz. But for overdrive it's not a patch on my Fulltone BassDrive (have they gone out of fashion, I'm so not up to date on the world of effects...) Alex

[quote name='hookys6stringbass' post='393793' date='Jan 28 2009, 04:25 PM']Thanks Alex, Is there a link?? The 3015's sound pretty good, as I like to play high up or should I say lead melodic bass do you think thse speakers would suit??[/quote] [url="http://www.eminence.com/proaudio_speaker_detail.asp?web_detail_link=KAPPALITE3015&speaker_size=15&SUB_CAT_ID=3"]http://www.eminence.com/proaudio_speaker_d...mp;SUB_CAT_ID=3[/url] Click on the cab design pdf on the right. Remember to deduct the wall thickness, port volume, cone volume and any bracing/handles etc when calculating internal (net) volume, or you'll end up short of bottom! I'm quite a one for chords on the bass and the 3015 has absolutely no problem with them, plenty of midrange and treble clarity. I'd have thought lead melodic bass would work great on them because they have that clarity but they still sound fat because the midrange output is pretty even unlike many modern drivers where midrange output increases as you go higher in frequency. Alex

[quote name='Toasted' post='393785' date='Jan 28 2009, 04:13 PM']I do indeed play heavy music . My bass is certainly inspired by an appreciation of heavier players, Newsted, James Leech.[/quote] Despite my techy ramblings and the general ska/funkness (aka BritSkunk) of my band I do love my rock and metal, though I'm particularly choosy about the latter. With either both pickups in series or the bridge pickup soloed by RIM Custom 5 does a mean job of blowing the doors off in a rock manner, though I'll sometimes solo the neck pickup and downpluck heaviliy a la Geezer. Am loving what the low B can do in a heavier context, it is SO mighty. Recently I've been hearing so many ramblings that "wood doesn't matter" but why is it that people will pay so much more for a Sadowsky than many other Fender-alikes. Because Roger Sadowsky really understands wood - not the species, the individual pieces and how they go together to make a truly toneful bass. A true artist of bass making, up there with Michael Tobias and Ken Smith IMO! [quote name='Toasted' post='393785' date='Jan 28 2009, 04:13 PM']What do you mean by BEGOF bass, Alex? [/quote] Oh no, don't tell me you've missed out! Sadowsky have a "Buy Eight, Get One Free" policy, which Jason Newsted was the first to take advantage of. Alex

[quote name='jonnyenglish358' post='393675' date='Jan 28 2009, 02:00 PM']I'm going to try and work out how to adjust the sustain (if you can do that im a noob).[/quote] If you aren't using overdrive then you can't do that like you can on a guitar amp. But what you can do is turn the amp up more and pluck more softly, that'll give you more sustain. Generally on bass you don't need much sustain and often things will groove better if your notes have relatively quick decay, it makes the bassline pulse more - try resting your palm on the bridge saddles to slighltly muffle the strings and then pluck with your thumb (or a pick). You can get a very cool vibe by sometimes even muting so hard that when you play a low note at the same time as the kick drum you can barely tell the bass guitar and the bass drum from one another. Experiment! Alex

There's a lot to be said for that pickup placement if you're playing heavier music - and I can't help but thing of Jason Newsted's BEGOF Sadowskys when I see that bass. Rock on! Alex

Well it's certainly not short of tonal options! Tons of EQ, compression, bass intensifiers, et al. My SWR Grand Prix served me very well for almost a decade and I only sent it on its way due to my preferences changing. I was about to comment that it seems a little ridiculous for a preamp to need two rack spaces and then I remembered what I'm now using... Alex

Very nice. My second favourite basses after the obvious! My bass has an ash body and top and the neck is about 40% ash at a guess (5 piece neck with 3 pieces of wenge, and 2 of ash, plus wenge fingerboard). Compared to my wenge necked, cherry bodied Warwick the tone is definitely less compressed or growly with a bigger bottom and more open vibe (though I can't say how much of that is down to the longer scale and chambered body). I do like how the ash feels on the neck, nice texture to it. Alex

[quote name='Adee' post='393625' date='Jan 28 2009, 01:10 PM']Right ! when are we going to get to hear one or all of your cabs here in the midlands ? Northants to be exact ![/quote] Seeing as that's where I grew up I can't neglect you people! Hopefully if we have a UK Bass Bash it'll be in Northants again, in which case I'll be there. [quote name='Adee' post='393625' date='Jan 28 2009, 01:10 PM']Can't afford to take a punt on one at the mo I'm afraid, but would love to test one.[/quote] If you send it back in one piece then you can enjoy a Barefaced cab for a week or so for the cost of return postage (about £20). Cheaper than renting one? Alex

[quote name='hookys6stringbass' post='391239' date='Jan 25 2009, 09:14 PM']I really fancy building a big feck off 2 x 15 bass cab!! Can anyone point me in the right direction for plans???[/quote] Check out Eminence's cab designs for the Kappalite 3015, probably one there to suit and it is a truly righteous driver. Alex

[quote name='4000' post='392165' date='Jan 26 2009, 09:31 PM']In terms of bottom, I was using a friend's Ashdown Klystron (original series) 1x15 combo tonight and had the bass at 9 o'clock; any more I found too boomy, so that probably says a lot about me and bottom too![/quote] Boominess is not found in the true lows but resides in the mid-high bass region around 150Hz. The reason that most bass players think that adding too much bottom makes the sound boomy is not because there is too much bottom happening (i.e. too much in the sub 100Hz region) but because when you ask any speaker to provide more bottom you increase its excursion. As most bass cabs don't have much clean cone excursion ability you quickly run into the region of higher distortion. When you distort a sound you effectively synthesise additional harmonic content, so if you distort a 55Hz note you'll get a whole load of extra 110Hz and 165Hz and 220Hz etc output. So by cranking up the bass knob you end up adding more midbass than anything, and that's why things start getting boomy. Now if you were using a rig with much greater Vd (volume displacement, which equals cone area x undistorted cone excursion) then you'd be able to boost the lows more and get more bottom without it turning into boom. And that has been one of my main focuses with my cab designs - even if they're not naturally big bassy soundings beasts they have sufficient Vd to accept LF boost at high SPL so if you want big bottom you can get it without boom. Now you know! Alex

[quote name='bass_ferret' post='393089' date='Jan 27 2009, 07:24 PM']Specific idea's or random mixing of cabs [/quote] Ok, I admit, not random mixing. But running dissimilar drivers fullrange for a certain sound, like the Midget on top of the Big Sub for an insanely loud angry growly rock tone with massive clean bottom. Alex

The last place was very easy to get to and probably pretty close to the centre of the UK by population distribution. Alex

Definitely up for that! The noise was ok earlier on, it was only in the latter stages that it got silly. Mind you, imagine if it had been a guitarist get together... Alex

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='389718' date='Jan 23 2009, 04:04 PM']Might start a poll to ban mixing of cabs, see how many people sign up to that.[/quote] I actually have some ideas that specifically involve the mixing of dissimilar cabs and drivers. Quelle horreur! Alex

I rather like the orange. (So predictable of me, hangover from my Uni band "Agent Orange"). But it's looking like shiny metal may be best. I think T-shirts could look nice though... I wonder how much the non-standard form-factor will make them identifiable? Alex

Damn it, you're right. I did have quite a few ideas in the way of making the cabs instantly identifiable but they all fell to the wayside in the mission for nice simple aesthetics and form following function... Alex

Lots of useful feedback, thanks! I can't do the large dB thing because of dB Technologies who make PA gear, too close to trademark infringement. And yes, it'll have to be the same badge on all the cabs, just doesn't make economic sense to have lots of different ones. If I order enough I can get the price low enough and have a really smart looking badge. Vertical is an interesting idea but I imagine could be so detrimental to legibility that what you gain with uniqueness you lose on the other hand. I wonder how important it really is to have a badge that is clearly visible on TV etc? How much does one rely on that kind of exposure now there's an interweb? Colourwise I think having the words in bare aluminium against the black printing should look very classy - unless someone can suggest a nice strong colour that no-one else is using and looks good? Alex

[quote name='Delberthot' post='392520' date='Jan 27 2009, 10:54 AM']I find that the simplicity of the electronics mean that I have more control over the sound. i can play with a regular touch and it sounds very warm and typical P bass but if I dig in it can get very dirty and gnarly with a real bite to the sound. I've also discovered that it responds really well to slapping in the same position as Larry Graham, ie where a normal split P pickup would be. I also use a kind of slapping, picking motion so instead ofs lapping the string dead on, I play right through it if that makes sense?[/quote] Exactly. Same with my bass - I find this kind of thing is particularly noticeable with passive single pickup basses (or when you have a pickup soloed on a dual pickup bass like mine). That slapping action of going through the string is a very LG thing too. It's nice to shift the thumb back to there when you want more thump and less ping. Likewise when I want to get dirty I'll pluck in a more downwards fashion up near the end of the neck to get lots of clatter, or I might dig in really hard really close to the bridge to get tons of growl. [quote name='Delberthot' post='392520' date='Jan 27 2009, 10:54 AM']There is one thing I've always wanted for it - a gold bridge cover in the same style as the originals. The later covers are very easy to come by but I've never seen an original style gold one.[/quote] A good reason not to get a bridge cover is to get into palm-muting. You can get so many different vibes through muffling the string when thumb plucking, especially on a fairly bright bass where you aren't scared to knock off some treble. Something you can never do with EQ is to mute as you pluck to mellow out the attack but then release the muting straight away so the full harmonic content builds as the note develops. Alex