alexclaber

QSC PLX or PLX2. Alex

[quote name='Doc B' post='179738' date='Apr 18 2008, 01:43 PM']I really have no skills in the electronics side of amps[/quote] A learning opportunity? Alex

I don't see great worth to true biamping with that rig but it may be worth experimenting with. Can you run one side fullrange and the other high or low passed, to either remove lows from whichever cab handles them worst or highs likewise. Alex

[quote name='thinman' post='179719' date='Apr 18 2008, 01:22 PM']Alex - I know you know far more about these things than I but I just thought I'd point out that if the OP can get to the speaker out then the 4 tweeters should probably be wired in series with each other and it's often recommended (especially by Bill Fitzmaurice) to put a 4 ohm 25W resistor in series with them too. The whole lot is then put across the main driver.[/quote] With this little power I think you could parallel all the piezos - their voltage limit is 25-30 volts which is about 100W - though series/parallel might match the woofer sensitivity better. The 4 or 8 ohm series resistor is a good suggestion to avoid ultrasonic oscillation. Alex

[quote name='Doc B' post='179703' date='Apr 18 2008, 01:08 PM']Thanks but there's no ext. speaker socket![/quote] Is there any way you can get a connection through to the amp output or to the woofer? They just need connecting in parallel to that, no crossover required. Alex

Zing and sparkle is totally a tweeter thing. Four piezo tweeters glued together in a vertical array and plugged into your extension cab socket will give you that for about £10. [url="http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=LS02367"]http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/productd...jsp?SKU=LS02367[/url] Alex

[quote name='The Funk' post='177422' date='Apr 15 2008, 10:11 PM']I recently purchased a Fender 400PS. Pumps out 435W (with three 4ohm cabs), 290W (with two 4 ohm cabs) and 145W (with one 4 ohm cab).[/quote] That should sound pretty righteous through the Acmes - seems they get on well with valve amps! Alex

[quote name='paul, the' post='178928' date='Apr 17 2008, 03:25 PM']Is there anywhere in the forum/wiki that attempts to explain these graphs and the like?[/quote] Ask questions and I shall answer. The task of writing this stuff for the wiki is too big for me to know where to start, especially as one can go so deep... Alex

[quote name='david_l_perry' post='178946' date='Apr 17 2008, 03:39 PM']I always fix the T nuts by using a G clamp to pull them into the wooden panel.[/quote] Now why didn't I think of that? Alex

Like so many of the session greats, his time and feel is impeccable. If only more bassists worked on the skills and technique to support this instead of twiddly flash - dynamics, tempo, placement, accenting, tone... Alex

[quote name='david_l_perry' post='178591' date='Apr 17 2008, 09:46 AM']Have they dropped out when fitting the bolts ?[/quote] Yes, whilst fixing the midrange in - and then because it happened to three of them I couldn't get the midrange out to remove them. Cue lots of irritable drilling out of bolts! Alex

[quote name='The Funk' post='178187' date='Apr 16 2008, 06:55 PM']Bloody hell. How do you expect it to compare to your old pair of Acme B2s?[/quote] Not as deep bass extension, more sensitive, obviously less treble extension, similar maximum low frequency output, greater maximum midrange output. I have three words for this evening: ****ing tee nuts. What a ****ing pain in the ****ing neck. Wood screws into three layers of 9mm ply in future methinks... Also, been fitting the port and it seems to need to be much longer than the calculated length to get the original planned tuning frequency. Bizarre. Alex

[quote name='lowhand_mike' post='177721' date='Apr 16 2008, 11:31 AM']cant even talk and play let alone sing and play[/quote] I can sing and play but I can't talk and play, that's much harder! The hardest things to sing and play are not the impressive slap lines, 16th note fingerfunk or weird chordal things but the simpler countermelodic basslines with space and syncopations - reggae lines are particularly evil. Alex

[quote name='lwtait' post='171582' date='Apr 7 2008, 04:41 PM']i know flea dont play fretless...[/quote] If You Have To Ask has both fretless and fretted bass on it, You Oughta Know is all fretless as is I Could Die For You, for starters. I was wondering who played fretless bass on Bad Love by Eric Clapton - seems that's another Pino one! Alex

[quote name='david_l_perry' post='177619' date='Apr 16 2008, 09:27 AM']Certainly the Omni 15 is not a one handle lift (still a very light cab for its size though)[/quote] Obviously this will be a few lbs heavier once it's finished but as it stands it feels significantly lighter than my rack, and my rack is somewhere between 40 and 50lbs. I think we're looking at easily under 40lbs complete, which will be amazing! I bet the Omni 15TB has that same psychological affect of feeling even lighter than it is because you don't expect such big boxes to be light. My RIM Custom 5 is like that too - maybe an ounce or two lighter than my Warwick but feels lighter because it's that much bigger. Alex

I really need to buy some Ben Harper - Juan Nelson is one bad mofo! Huge Larry Graham influence clear during that solo but that's never a bad thing... Alex

[quote name='david_l_perry' post='177572' date='Apr 16 2008, 08:01 AM']I am far from convinced about not having a HF element, however this [i]entirely boils down to taste in Bass tone[/i], what sort of bass you are using and if you are playing with flatwounds... Certainly the Omni15 without the HF elements sound lifeless to me (even with the horn loaded mid range driver), howevor some other users dont even notice if the horn is on or off. I am just replacing the HF element in my Omni 15 with a slightly more sensitive HF melded array to lift up the top end a little more.[/quote] I've decided to initially try this box without any padding on the midrange driver, so the response will rise by about 3dB above 750Hz: i.e. the plot will follow the light blue line until the purple line rises higher and then it'll follow the purple line. Either way the midrange ends up -3dB @ 5-6kHz and -10dB @ 9kHz. Obviously it won't have that tweeter sparkle but it should have enough treble for most bassists. The Omni 15's midrange speaker being horn loaded doesn't go as high (horn acts as a bandpass filter) so I'd expect that to have more need of a tweeter, which the no tweeter plot confirms. Am thinking I should have just used a strap handle, this cab's so light that recessed bar handles are overkill. Alex

Awaiting port, wiring, insulation and finish. Crazy crazy light! Alex

And he wants you to sing the lead vocal on SOTOTW too? Alex

[quote name='Jobiebass' post='175888' date='Apr 13 2008, 09:38 PM']I dont plan on gigging with it...[/quote] In that case I wouldn't bother getting anything else, your existing combo should be more than sufficient for your needs. Spend the spare cash on lessons instead! Alex

[quote name='gilmour' post='174623' date='Apr 11 2008, 03:37 PM']I have no idea about how to biamp it i'm afraid - Alex Clabber will probably know.[/quote] One 'b'! Don't try biamping it, the crossove point is too high (5kHz on the GK vs 2.5kHz on the Omni). You could relabel the tweeter level knob as your 'bad mofo' or 'punch' or 'warmth' or whatever control to keep foolish producers/engineers happy! Lee Sklar: "I used to have a bass with a "producer switch" on it. That's what I called it. All I did was drill a hole and install a toggle switch; it wasn't wired to anything. When the producer would ask for something different, I'd flip the switch and he'd go [gives a thumbs-up sign], "That's great!"" Alex

[quote name='tauzero' post='174592' date='Apr 11 2008, 03:02 PM']I really don't understand that. If you're using a 9V supply then theoretically you could put out around 8V peak-to-peak which is well above what a live level input is, let alone an average pickup output.[/quote] I bet that's fine for buffering a passive pickup or bringing an active pickup up to a good level. However with all of these EQ circuits having over 10dB of EQ boost available I can't imagine these systems having sufficient headroom to handle loud notes cleanly when the EQ is heavily boosted - I know my Aguilar preamp can't, even on 18V and that's one of the nicer preamps available. Alex

For me, fretting hand: Thumb to little finger t2t: 23.5cm Stretch from index to little finger c2c: 17cm Plucking hand (same size, just not used to stretching between frets): Thumb to little finger t2t: 23.5cm Stretch from index to little finger c2c: 15cm Personally I don't think one can say that your hand size alone should affect your choice of instrument but I think it's one of a number of contributing factors. So for instance I've never really come up against limitations in terms of how fast I can play - yes, there's stuff I can't do because it's too quick but I wouldn't actually choose to play that stuff - in fact I think I still play more notes than ideal so an instrument that slows me down a little isn't a bad thing. I'm very tone-centric and care hugely about how every single note sounds from start to finish, so I wanted a very responsive instrument that would give my hands maximum control of that and the longer scale does help with that. Also I wanted an instrument with a very large dynamic range in real world situations - from my one gig I've played on this 36" scale I've already noticed the benefits vs my old 34" scale that I've played for years and years. If you're a fusion player like Matt Garrison that plays very quick stuff and has a light touch then I can totally see shorter scales being beneficial. I guess I'm more neanderthal than that... I know Mike Watt prefers to play a short scale (30") live because it's less tough on his joints but always records with a 34" because he gets a better recorded tone. Regarding the left hand thumb position, yes roughly the middle of the neck. However, pivoting thumb technique involves your fingers reaching larger stretches without straining and without your thumb moving up or down the neck but just rotating around the thumb pad. Hopefully one of the teachers on here can explain how to work it into your technique, I'm not sure when or how I started doing it! Alex

From Shuker's website: "All circuits are 18volt systems, battery life is dependent on the preamp selected. There are three different preamp chips, all have their own characters. The standard chip is a low current op amp that is used in the majority of active circuits on the market. Its main advantage is the battery life, which can last up to 6 months. The midrange chip has a satisfactory battery life, usually around three months or so but has huge improvements in performance, frequency response and clarity. the top spec chip has quite a high current consumption, batteries wil last for around 4-6 weeks, more suited to studio work and digital recording, one of the highest quality preamps available." Would be interesting to see what the exact chips are that tend to be used and then compare them to the chips found in heads and rack preamps. I believe Alembic offers 36V phantom powered onboard electronics as well as their usual battery powered systems. Alex

[quote name='matty589' post='174501' date='Apr 11 2008, 01:10 PM']One of my favourite players is Anthony Jackson, and his bass has one full-range passive pickup wired directly to the output jack. Nothing wrong with his tone! I just have to convince someone to build something similar for less than £10K [/quote] Speak to Robbie @ RIM Custom Basses! My RIM Custom 5 was inspired by AJ's signature Fodera in a number of ways - 36" scale, chambered body, full-range passive pickups (two in this case plus a 4-way switch). In retrospect I didn't need the volume and tone pots but I doubt I'm losing much treble through them. It sounds ridiculously awesome and plays really well! Alex