ikay

As The Bass Doc says, the decal is the simple spaghetti logo which was used from 1951 to 1961 when a couple of patent numbers were added so this suggests a neck refin with a replacement vintage decal at some point. The pics of the headstock also show what look like water stain marks seeping into the finish by the G tuner (back of headstock) and all of the tuning posts (front of headstock) which suggests it's been stored in a pretty damp environment at some time. That's borne out by the corrosion on the tuner collets and aslo a very corroded input jack. That's my tuppence [quote name='Clarky' post='796131' date='Apr 4 2010, 11:50 PM']This guy has a good reputation on eBay (bambibau) and one BC'er has mentioned him positively (albeit I got a very rude reply when I put in a cheeky bid for one of his other basses!) He admits this is a re-fin but states that all else is original. But the neck looks strange to me (the date stamp says '63 but the dots don't look dark enough to be clay, more like white plastic; the headstock which he admits is "thin" hasn't aged much, especially around the decal). Maybe it is legit? Its certainly a beautiful thing. What do the BassChat Fender 'tecs think? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1963-Fender-Precision-Bass-Sunburst-OHSC-Rare-Ash_W0QQitemZ250604900710QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBassi?hash=item3a59375166"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1963-Fender-Precisio...=item3a59375166[/url][/quote]

If you post a pic showing how you've wired it that would help

Hmm, seems that my comments on lighter gauge strings above are completely wrong - so much for my ears This article [url="http://www.tyquinn.com/2009/string-gauge/"]http://www.tyquinn.com/2009/string-gauge/[/url] explains it pretty well. It refers to six string guitars but the physics are the same [quote name='Vibrating G String' post='791453' date='Mar 31 2010, 02:54 AM']Heavier tighter strings have more harmonic content is generally accepted. This would mean thinner softer strings have more fundamental but I find this obvious conclusion meets resistance since it would mean thicker strings have less fundamental. But the math is pretty simple I like thinner strings and find they have plenty of bottom. I do find they are less forgiving of playing them to hard whereas a thick string will let you bash away. My current fave set is DR Sunbeams 40-120 so if you put them on your G&L I would like it. [/quote]

My experience of 40-125 gauge (I've not gone down to a 120 on the is that they ring longer and with more harmonic content. Perhaps somewhat less 'weight' in the bottom end but depends how you play. Good for slapping, although I don't (mainly because I can't) and generally easier to play as less resistance and softer on your fingers. I've found that lighter gauge suits some basses more than others. I used to use 40s on all my basses but over the past year have moved up to 45s just to get a little more old school 'solidity'. It's just a phase I'm going through! Still use 40s (DR Sunbeams) on my 72 Jazz which really sings. Worth experimenting, good luck [quote name='TGEvans' post='787134' date='Mar 26 2010, 04:17 PM']Looking to try out some new strings on my L2500. Thinking about a 40.60.80.100.120 set! At the moment im using 45.65.85.105.125. How much difference can the extra.5 make? Less bottom end? Any tips before I order some strings would be good, thanks. T.[/quote]

Hi Clarky, I use a Zoom H4 for exactly that. Just plonk it on a strategically positioned chair in the middle of the rehearsal room, press the button and go. The internal condenser mics do a good enough job for what I need which is just to get a rough but listenable take of each track to learn arrangements and changes etc. Re your stated requirements: - idiot-proof for downloading onto PC and sending on to band mates via email >> The H4 records directly into MP3 format and connecting to PC is dead easy. Plug in the provided USB cable, select 'connect to PC' from menu and you can just copy the MP3s to your hard disc. I then load the MP3s to a file sharing website but you can just as easily email them (around 4MB a song). - able to deal with very loud rehearsals! >> I've never had a problem, you just need to set your recording levels up once and make sure the mic sensitivity switch (lo/med/hi) is set appropriately. - good on-the-spot playback capabilities (thus needs in-built speaker) to check the recording is of an acceptable standard >> It doesn't have built in speakers but it's no hassle to connect it to a desk via the line out or headphone jack for playback. You'll need an appropriate cable with a stereo mini jack at the H4 end. - oh and not too hefty cost-wise too (say £200-ish) >> Mine was around £200 new. As it happens there's one on ebay closing in 22 hours, current bid £107 - [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Zoom-H4_W0QQitemZ120544631172QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Recorders_Rewriters?hash=item1c11051984"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Zoom-H4_W0QQitemZ120...=item1c11051984[/url] The buttons and menu system are a bit fiddly but there are only about half a dozen things you ever need to do and easy once you've got the hang of it Anyway, good luck with whatever you end up with! Ian

Just purchased a new style Fender SKB case from Andy. Genuine article and very reasonably priced. Very pleasant chap to deal with. Thanks again Andy

Rumple, I have a Skyline JO and recently fitted an Audere JZ3 preamp (great combintion btw). The JZ3 comes complete with control plate and dropped into the JO with no problem. screw holes in same place etc. The Audere is designed to fit a Fender Jazz so as far as I can see the control plate on the JO is the same as a Fender. Hope that helps. Ian

Just purchased a set of Villex pickups from Tom. Very nice chap to deal with. Pups exactly as described, well packed and shipped quickly. All in all a pleasure to do business with, thanks Tom.

[quote name='Big Bass Man' post='760742' date='Mar 1 2010, 02:01 PM']Hi Everyone I've just bought one of these excellent Gallien Krueger RB700/115 Mark 2 combos over the weekend (second hand). The wheels seems to be splitting apart when I'm using the handle (I knew about this before I bought it BTW!) so has anyone had this problem and do you have any recommendations of parts etc? Will it be easy for me to repair or will I need help? Cheers in advance Nick[/quote] Hi Nick, I had the same problem with my RB700/210 but it's an easy fix. You can purchase a new set of wheels from GKs UK distributor Polar Audio: POLAR AUDIO LTD. 17 ALBERT DR. BURGESS HILL WEST SUSSEX RH15 9TN ENGLAND 01444-258258 01444-258444 [email protected] www.polaraudio.co.uk Doesn't cost a lot and very easy to fit, you just unscrew the complete wheel cradle and swap in the new one. Ian

[quote name='andy.' post='725714' date='Jan 26 2010, 08:47 PM']I may be buying a old jazz bass but theres something wrong in my mind with it. There seems to be something missing from the bottom end. Im still tempted to buy it cos it plays really well and its a really great price but im thinking about replacing the pickups. Could this make the tone better? I have been looking at a few makes and im not sure which are best. I have looked at: [url="http://www.aeroinstrument.com/pickups.html"]http://www.aeroinstrument.com/pickups.html[/url] [url="http://www.hansonpickups.com/products.htm"]http://www.hansonpickups.com/products.htm[/url] [url="http://www.fralinpickups.com/"]http://www.fralinpickups.com/[/url] The reason I was looking at these ones is cos lakland use apparently use then and I like the sound of lakalands. Anyone got any thoughts?[/quote] Fender Custom Shop 60's jazz bass pickups are also excellent. I have a set of these on a 72 Jazz and they really bring out the character of the bass. Vintage tone with plenty of snarl and growl on tap when needed. Fralins are very similar to Custom Shop 60s to my ears. I have these on a Lakland JO4 along with an Audere JZ3 preamp which is an outstanding combination. (http://www.audereaudio.com/Scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=7)

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='723689' date='Jan 24 2010, 11:11 PM']The way i understood it was that having a Plek machine enables Lakland to produce basses that are set up as well, or better, as if they were done by hand but in a much quicker time frame and so they can produce more basses. I cant see any downside to that.[/quote] Just to clarify my comments, I've got nothing against PLEKs. I've played several factory pleked basses and without exception they've all had a much better and more consistent setup than most (fenders for example!). A standard PLEK setup will probably work well for most basses but it is working to a mathematical formula which I guess can't always take into account the varying physical characteristics of each individual neck. Mine for example just required an extra tweak in the right places to get get it dead on. In the end it probably comes down to the skill of the operator so the bottom line is that we still need skilled technicians and not just machines!

FAQ from EBMM below (see paras in bold). I use EB wonder wipes to clean the fretboard. Lemon oil can also be used for both rosewood and maple boards. Re the bit about a very occasional treatment with gunstock oil - only ever do this on a neck that is already clean or the dirt will be sealed in and never us wax on the fretboard. If a maple board is really ingrained then very fine sanding is the only way to clean and the sanded part should then be treated with gun oil to seal it (not wax!). I found several suppliers for Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil and Gunstock Wax (for the back of the neck) on ebay and use this to maintain my SR5 neck. [b]How do I maintain the neck on my new Music Man bass? [/b] For everyday cleaning, use a small dose of high-grade lemon oil. For the fretboard, use Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner. If the neck is very dirty, give us a call or email us at [email protected] This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it . Since the neck is finished only with gunstock oil and wax blend, it is more susceptible to humidity changes. An occasional truss rod adjustment will halp keep your bass playing factory-new. If you are getting fret buzz (plugged in only, of course) raise the action by turning the trussrod wheel counter-clockwise, to lower the action turn it clockwise. [b]An infrequent dose of gunstock oil will help to keep the neck maintained; we recommend and use Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil, but any good quality gunstock oil will work. Clean neck first. Use a small amount of Tru-oil, leave it on for 5 minutes, then wipe it off with a paper towel. Then apply Birchwood-Casey Gunstock Wax. Be sure to douse the paper towel with water before disposing of it! Read the wax and oil manufacturer's instructions regarding disposal of these used paper towels.[/b] Birchwood-Casey products are available at most sporting goods or gun stores, or direct. Their web address is [url="http://www.birchwoodcasey.com"]http://www.birchwoodcasey.com[/url]. Rosewood fingerboards should not be treated with gunstock oil; instead they should be treated with a high grade of lemon oil. [b]For cleaning, try using the same high grade of lemon oil to clean the entire neck, both maple and rosewood fretboards. Keep in mind that if the dirt or grease has been worked into the wood, it cannot be removed except by sanding it down, which we do not recommend unless exercised with extremely fine sandpaper (1200-1600 grit), and even then very sparingly. It is better to keep it clean in the first place. Washing your hands first helps![/b] Some discoloration after many hours of playing is normal on unfinished necks. Be sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety precautions when using any of these oils or waxes.

I had my Lakland JO4 plecked by Charlie Chandlers last year (it's an early model, before Lakland had a PLEK) because I'd heard great things about PLEKs and wanted a low buzz free action. Wasn't happy with the result so took it back to Paul in their workshop who spent some time setting it up manually and did a much better job (perfect in fact). Had interesting discussions about my particular setup issues with people at Charlie Cs workshop and my view now is that there's no substitute for a skilled technician who knows his stuff and takes the time to understand the individual idiosyncrasies of the instrument. The PLEK is just a tool. It can iron out major inconsistencies in a neck (nut slots, high frets, imperfect relief profiles or fall off etc) to get a good basic setup but optimising this for each instrument is ultimately a manual process.

I've also been thinking about replacing the preamp in my TRB5 and would be interested in any feedback on how easily the East pre went in and how well it worked with the stock Yamaha soapbar pickups. With pictures if possible. I suspect that a bit of drilling is needed ... Thanks

[quote name='BB2000' post='694600' date='Dec 27 2009, 11:38 PM']I see a few UK retailers now stock the Yamaha BB2024 basses. Has anyone familiar with the BB2000/3000 models tried one?[/quote] Not tried one yet but I have a BB2000. At over 2 grand the BB2024 seems a mite overpriced to me. No doubt a great bass but that's a lot of dosh for a bolt on version of the original which would cost you considerably less. If you can find one that is! A rare and beautiful bass.