ikay

If it doesn't work in active mode, even after changing the battery, then just switch it to passive and use it in passive mode. To connect it to a software package like GarageBand you will need an audio interface like a Focusrite Scarlett or something similar - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Audio-Interface/dp/B07QR6Z1JB

Here's the Ric wiring. I've tweaked it to take the switch out of circuit. The 4.7nf cap in the bridge pickup signal path cuts some bass which gives the characteristic Ric clank. Just remove it if you don't want that. Again you might want to change the pots to 500k for your Spector humbuckers. This circuit uses a stereo jack but you could use mono and just connect both hot wires to tip. It has no isolating resistors so there will most likely be some interaction between the neck and bridge pickup controls. Standard Ric wiring though so I guess it works!

I believe they're there to stop the tone controls interacting with each other. If you remove them, the hot wire from each pickup has a clear path to both tone pots. A side effect is that they also attenuate the signal somewhat which isn't ideal. I'll see if I can dig up a schematic for a Ric as an alternative.

Jazz stack-knob VTVT wiring is essentially the same, just use 4 separate pots rather than 2 stacked. If the Spector has humbuckers you might want to make the vol pots 500k instead of 250k. See diagram below. Tone is on top, vol underneath.

Depends whether the piezo element is bonded into the saddle or just a push fit. I have a Hipshot piezo bridge and the elements just lift out (pic below). If the hole where the wire comes out is large enough, I'd try giving it a gentle prod with a stiff bit of wire like a paper clip.

The TC Electronic RH750 head has a built in tuner but no aux power supply. https://www.tcelectronic.com/Categories/Tcelectronic/Bass/Head-Amplifiers/RH750/p/P0CIV#googtrans(en|en)

Looking more closely at the El Torro active circuit (see both links below), I think, if you ignore the active/passive switch (S1) and the preamp, what remains is the wiring for the original passive version. The preamp appears to just be a signal boost to present a stronger and cleaner signal to the amp. The treble and bass controls are provided by a passive circuit. Active circuit schematic - https://www.bassesbyleo.com/images/el_toro/tech/el_toro_wiring_diagram_drawing.pdf Active circuit description - https://www.bassesbyleo.com/images/el_toro/tech/el_toro_wiring_diagram_description.pdf The passive wiring would then look like the schematic below. See the description link above for the function of S2 and S3.

This passive L-series wiring diagram may provide some clues - https://www.bassesbyleo.com/passive_l_series.html

The Stingray pup position actually overlaps a 60s J bridge pup to quite a degree. It might just about squeeze in with a 70s position J-style bridge pup without mounting lugs. Here's a comparison pic.

Exactly. Mine purrs like a contented cat - an original '57 (with Clive Brown refin). It just makes me smile 😊

Ah yes front ported, don't know why I thought sealed. And thanks, if we ever do!

Indeed I do! Thanks, that's interesting. I guess odd pairings do work sometimes. And yes, it was your ML-112 that prompted the question!

Thanks for the replies and I'm glad I asked! That all makes perfect sense. I generally play small venues with backline only and am quite happy with my amp/cab combination (LMIII + Berg 112). Used to have two Berg 112s but rather foolishly sold one. That will teach me!

Specifically I'm considering pairing my Bergantino EX112ER (1x12 plus tweeter, front ported cab) with a Baer ML-112 (1x12 plus 6" mid driver, sealed cab). The idea being that the punch and upper mid detail of the Baer might complement the extended bottom and sweet top end of the Berg. I love the Berg on it's own but have also heard good things about the Baer and I'm wondering how well they'd work together. Or would their individually excellent sound qualities just cancel each other out and sound meeh? Is pairing up cabs from two different makers in any case something that's generally best avoided? Google didn't yield any useful insights so I'm hoping the combined experience of all you excellent and helpful BCers will! 😎

I think the biggest challenge will be finding a way to do it without sanding the existing finish back, at least to some extent, particularly if there's a build up of polish on top of the old finish. Personally I think it looks great in your pic, that sort of naturally aged and well worn look is a beautiful thing!

Excellent, well done!

This may help - https://www.redstarguitars.com/how-to-decode-cts-pot-numbers/ EP885 would seem to indicate a CTS pot made for Allparts.

For the neck (J) pickup, the white wire (hot) and the black+shield wires (cold) should just go where the original J hot and cold wires went which should be easy enough to spot. For the bridge (MM) pickup, the white and green (hot) wires should go to the switch where the original black and red wires went. It will work whichever way round they go (eg. white for black and green for red, or vice versa) but the order does determine which coil is tapped. Wire it up and if you're not happy with which coil is being tapped just swap the wires over. (Bartolini wiring code says red is neck coil and black is bridge coil) The brown+yellow+shield wires go to the pot lug where the original white+green+shield wires went.

One thing to watch out for is the number of frets - there are 20, 21 and 22 fret P/J necks out there. Best to swap like for like to avoid intonation and bridge position issues.

Your '87 sounds great, why do you need another one?!

Looks like an attempt at adding a treble bleed cap to the vol control to reduce loss of high frequencies when vol is backed off.

If you want it to sound like a regular single pickup P then it would be best to take the J vol pot completely out of circuit. To do this you need to break the wiring as shown by the green markers in the diagram below. If you leave the J pot connected then the P pickup is still seeing the load of both vol pots which results in a little loss of high end and a slight drop in output compared with a regular P. It's equivalent to running a regular P with the vol backed off about 20%. Not dramatic but enough to be noticeable. Depends what you're trying to achieve by disconnecting the J pup.

+1 All Lakland 5s are 19mm spacing.