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ikay

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Posts posted by ikay

  1. 1 hour ago, Bigguy2017 said:

    There are some (non-genuine?) ones around...

    Be warned that the holes in most 'Stingray style' control plates on the web don't line up with the genuine MM fitting. The holes in the copies are evenly spaced but the holes in the MM one (particularly on the inner curve of the banana) aren't.

    DV247 list the genuine MM control plate on their site for £26 but have no stock at the moment.

    https://www.dv247.com/en_GB/GBP/Music-Man-StingRay-Control-Plate-Chrome-The-Banana-/art-GIT0008768-000

     

    857137839_Stingraycontrolplate.jpg.8e4152f14275c3b22d61a29661c0eee2.jpg

     

  2. A higher value cap will cut more highs. Eg. a 0.1uf cap will give a darker sound than a 0.47Uf cap with the tone turned down. What's in your bass at the moment? If you also want a brighter sound with the tone fully open you could use a no-load tone pot which effectively removes the pot from the circuit when fully open.

     

  3. It's straightforward enough but obviously needs to be done with care. A few things to watch out for:

    1. If the neck is shimmed the shim will fall out and need to be replaced in the same position (providing you were happy with how the neck was set in the first place).

    2. When re-assembling, gently turn the fixing screw counter-clockwise first and you should detect a point where it 'clicks' into the hole. This indicates that it is lined up with the existing thread in the hole in the pocket. Then screw in as normal. If you don't do this the screw may tap a new thread in the hole which chews up the wood. Better if it can screw back into exactly the same threaded hole.

    3. Before tightening the neck screws, put the strings on at very low tension and check that the neck is properly aligned from the front. If the pocket has any wiggle room it's easy for the neck to become slightly misaligned so best to check before tightening.

    4. Don't overtighten the neck screws. Tighten gently but firmly. When they just feel tight stop, don't be tempted to try and make them super-tight which will just risk stripping the threaded hole.

    • Like 4
  4. Not done it but yes should be easy, just disconnect the pickup and rewire it to a 2EQ using the same front plate. Use the output jack on the front plate and leave the side jack disconnected. I've recently acquired an SR 2EQ and love the preamp. To my surprise I have to say as I generally like to have a mid control. The SR 2EQ is very musical and sounds more open and organic than the 3EQ to my ears.

  5. They're a bit on the heavy side I think. I've been looking for a 735 for a while but they've all been in the 4.3 to 4.5kg range which is a bit weightier than I'd like. The maple sandwich construction of the body probably bumps the weight up a bit.

    • Thanks 1
  6. Are they both series 1 models with the offset hi-mass bridge as in the pics below? As mentioned above, every piece of wood is different in grain structure and mass. The additional overall mass of the 6 will also be a factor. And even small difference in construction and setup can make a significant difference to the sound. Taking the attached pic as a reference here are a few other factors:

    1. Width of neck - the wider neck of the 6 will most likely be generally stiffer than the 5. Also the construction of the neck is slightly different in that the two darker strips are wider apart.

    2. Neck to body join - these are both neck through in construction but the bottom cutaway on the 6 is much deeper than the 5.

    3. Intonation/saddle position - in the pic, the saddles on the 5 are further forward than the 6. If yours is similar, the smaller length of string between saddle and anchor point on the 6 will make it sound tighter.

    4. Strings - are yours both wearing the same strings and of similar age/brightness?

     

    1380142330_YamahaTRB5p-TRB6p.jpg.01c8c86de34a437f500c76484a423c71.jpg

  7. Not played a Danelectro but I too love my HCT Club. Does thumpy or articulate as shoulderpet says. There is a little neck dive but that's just the nature of the beast. The HCT has a gap between the end of the fretboard and the body which means you can use a 'tie-on' strap which helps to shift the anchor point as far left as poss. It also helps to prevent the bass rolling forward/away from you which always bothers me with strap buttons on the back like the Ignition. Mine came with a set of LaBella Beatle flats which are super smooth and really suit it well. I tried LaBella Beatle black nylons but felt they were a bit floppy. Much preferred the proper flats. The extra little bit of tension just helps the bass to speak and deliver it's quintessentially Hofner character. Very cool little bass.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  8. 27 minutes ago, Frank Blank said:

    This is excellent, many thanks @ikay, did you get to try it out or were you just inspired seeing it on here?

    I didn't ever get to play this particular one, it just made me sit up and pay attention to ACG. There happened to be a custom Recurve for sale on the ACG website at the time which proved to be irresistible! After nearly 10 years it's still one of my favourite basses. Mine has a single humbucker and piezo. It started life with the same dual filter preamp as on yours but I struggled with the extreme and somewhat unpredictable tonal range of the filters. After a couple of years I swapped it out for a more conventional East modular preamp which suits the mag/piezo pickup mix much better.

    P1010414.jpg

    • Like 1
  9. It was this very bass that lured me into buying my (superb) ACG Recurve fretless back in 2010. I'd never seen anything quite like it!

    Running a quick search in 'Basses For Sale' brings back a few ads for this bass which may help to piece together the ownership history before yourself (see ads dated Oct 2010, Jan 2012, Sep 2012, Dec 2012, Oct 2019).

    https://www.basschat.co.uk/search/?q=harlot&type=forums_topic&nodes=19&search_in=titles

    • Like 1
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